It looks from thoes pictures as though alanf has it, there looks to be none of the centre tube inside the id of the bearing. It should just push down at the edge enough for you to get your highly calibrated drift on the inside of the bearing an knock it out.

That looks totally ****!

However at least at the back of it the basin is over the tiles so should be able to be removed without any extra tiling. Could you then search for a similar basin upto 540mm ish as it looks like you may have the space for an extra 20mm each side and re-use the pedestal if the flooring has been laid around it.

With the ex500’s it is key to push the tyre bead into the center trough of the rim. This my seem counter intuitive when putting on or removing a tyre but it does give you enough additional slack in the tyre to get it on.

You can get tubeless kits for the ex500’s which may be the most strait forward way to go tubless however if you are determined to change the rims you will need to get ones with a similar ERD to the DT Swiss ones to re-use the spokes.

Spokes are spokes and make no difference to the ability of a rim to be tubeless.

The bearings could be gone. I am going to presume it is cartridge bearings, for these you will need to remove the end caps then knock the bearings out and get new ones and press them in.

They are not necessarily that expensive probably £6 a bearing ish for decent ones (Fag/Ina, SKF) are all good quality bearings. Your local bike shop should be able to do this for you if you don’t feel up to it.

Double post oops

RudiBoy

Are you in Aberdeen?

What are the wheels you are building?

I built a pair of pro2’s onto EN521 rims using the wheelpro guide earlier this year and got someone else off the forum to check them. I have had no problems with them since building them.

My email is in my profile if you need a shot of a wheel truing stand or a spoke tension meter.

Just finished a British twist on Slovak Svieckova

Delia’s pot roast beef in red wine served with thick a carrot, celery, parsnip and sour cream sauce with Slovak dumpling.

Nom nom nom nom nom.

Good effort sir, replacing a clutch is way way beyond my spannering skill level.

Do you have kids?

Could you suggest to them that all the shouting in the house when thy are staying over is upsetting the kids and that you feel hearing aids would be a big benefit to them and that you will have to re-consider how often you invite them round to avoid upsetting the kids too much.

My mum and aunt did something similar with my gran, her TV was almost always at full volume and they were getting headaches after 20 minutes of visiting her so said they would not visit for more than 10 minutes till she started to wear the hearing aids.

Is £300 low hundreds? If so look at this

http://www.jessops.com/online.store/products/82661/show.html
or
http://www.jessops.com/online.store/products/82295/show.html

rob jackson

See near the bottom of this thread from earlier today.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/gloworm-x2-lights-first-thoughts

Have you tried an i-beam seatpost, they have quite alot of adjustment?

EN521 rims are tough and should also be a bit lighter than the EX721. Mavic are a little annoying with rim sizes and don’t publish the ERD of their rims as they feel another measurement is better. If you google the ERD of the rims ther will be posts on forums of people who have measured them that will allow you to figure out if you will need new spokes to build your wheels.

You can get glass scrapers, they basically support a regular Stanley blade or a larger blade and give you a handle to hold so you don’t rip your fingers to shreds. They don’t cost much and are great for things like paint and expanding foam. As others have said let it dry and it’ll be easier to get it off.

Shims are generally about 10cm long, it would however be very easy to trim a shim down if it was too long.

JoeG that is an incredibly informative geeky and technical response with a cracking idea – top marks sir.

Email Treck about the problem of the narowing of the seat tube by the first pivot from the top of the seat tube, it my be a structural design and therefore a bad idea to ream the seat tube. If it is not structural then they may say go ahead with getting it reamed or help you out in some way.

As long as the new rims have the same ERD (Effective Rim Diamiter) then it should be fine to re-use the spokes, if the ERD is different you may find you need longer or shorter spokes to build the wheel.

If the ERD is the same your esiest way will be tape the new rim onto the curent one side by side and then swap a spoke at a time over. You will need to slacken them all off to start but this will keep all the spoke crosses in the same place and the orientation of the spokes from the hub will also remain the same.

The Hope H cup is in stock at merlincycles in the link i posted earlier. Hope ran out of stock of them for a month or two earlier in the year, no one could get them, not even Cy at Cotic or Si at Progressive bikes but about a month ago Hope re-stocked and they went on sale again.

*is confused by haggis1978’s last comment*

Hope make the H lower cup which is the correct one for lawrence0329. CRC don’t sell it due to them owning Nuke Proof and wanting to sell the warhead headset instead.

Trimming it does work, you can do it with a junior hacksaw and a file. I have done exactly this in the past.

You may need to modify that nukeproof one as it appears from the picture it comes withan extended lower insertion. If your frame is not designed for that you will need to trim the inserted part of the lower headset to get it to fit.

for £52.12 you can get a hope pick and mix headset top and bottom cups from merlin.

I would think you would need a 2 fort he top and an H for the bottom. You could use your current upper headset untill merlin get more stock in.

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/mtb-accessories/headsets-1/hope-pick-n-mix-headset-cups.html

Will it not suffer from the same problem that the contour does – no chest mount. Although it looks conciderably smaller than the contour it is the same basic shape that could make it difficult to mount securely on a chest mount?

If you can get a bag for free that fits you there is no reason that you couild not make it work with a bladder.

If you are remotely handy with a needle and thread it should be easy enough to stich an old bit of boot lace into the back of bag near the top to hang a bladder from to stop it moving about too much. The other thing you would need to do is cut a hole in the top of the bag for the tube to come out. Looking at other bags i have the slit seems to be about 2-3cm wide and have an overlap of elastic to stop water getting in. Something like 1/2″ wide elastic would be perfect for this and you would need less than 10cm which you may be able to blag as a sample from somewhere.

If you are really worried about the bladder moving you could put a couple of loos of elastic in the back to hold it against the back of the bag.

Turn it on and see if it works, then if it does you can always turn it on for a longer period at the weekend and combine some bike fettling in the garage with monitoring how quickly the tray fills up.

Fire training college by any chance?

There is some riding along the coastal paths but it is all pretty flat try and get hold of coastkid he knows all the good stuff down in East Lothian.

Pentlands could be possible, 30-40 minute drive back in to Edinburgh.
Glentress is a little over an hour away.

Check your brake light switch, the switch under the pedal. This is a common fault on VW and Audi cars. See if the brake lights go on when you press on the pedal, if not it could be the switch is gone. On my car the switch cost about £7

Edinburgh city council site has loads of info including sample contracts, schedules etc etc. would be a good place to start.

Are you in England or Scotland? It makes a difference for the contract. Google leasing agreements and you will find loads.

If it was my choice id go for the 2012 RLT’s for the dual air adjustability.

If she is wanting interest on the 15k then surly it is only fair you get recompense for your additional payment on the mortgage in the initial few years.

At the end of the day you have 3 options

1 Try and convince her you are being reasonable with everything being taken into consideration.
2 Give in and pay her to get everything settled sharpish and move on
3 Tell her politely to take her proposal and role it tightly, grease it lightly and shove it. Then let the lawyers sort it out and take their cut

I have a clothes rail looks just like that one Organic links to but it came from Argos. They are fine for clothes, but are not strong, i have put mine in the loft to hang out of season clothes on to free up space in the wardrobe and i tied to prop my snowboard against it and it fell down.

I’d go with druidh’s sugestion.

I’m sure i have seem some bike racks that have rails that sort of wedge between the floor and roof and you hang the bikes off them but i have only seen them for 2 bikes so it may work out quite expensive to get enough to suport all of the biks you have.

As others have mentioned it is possible to reduce the travel on the Revelations. The ones i bought from merlin came supplied with the all travel spaces in the bag with the instructions.

There are videos in YouTube on how to install the all travel spacers and instructions on the SRAM/RockShox site.

I just bought one from Jessops a couple of weeks ago (through my work i was able to get an additional 10% off at Jessops), still playing about with it and getting used to using it but it seems nice so far.

There has been a few threads recently about the micro 4/3 or compact system cameras, below is the thread i started a few weeks ago.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/nikon-1-camera-any-better-price-than-jessops

There are a few suggestions for other cameras in there that could be worth a look as well. The Olympus Pen E-PL3 was another camera i looked at but was a little over my budget so in the end i went for the Nikon.

Not going to look at the link but i do hope they are caught, it disgusts me that people can get away with this sort of thing.

Binners, that is mental getting death treats, would agree your comments were undeniably distasteful but someone has gone way over the top there.

Tubes cost a less than a pint of beer if bought online.

Tyres are harder to recommend, I have found a 2.25 Maxxis ardent rear and 2.35 Maxxis High Roller super Tacky front work well together for what i ride but they may not be your cup of tea.

have a look at nextdaytyres.co.uk for pictures of tread patterns and user reviews of the tyres.

Well Mr Flashheart not meaning to copy you or anything but it would appear i now have the same reason as you for missing next seasons boarding. Just back from the first scan today so baby is due beginning of March.

*crosses fingers for early snow this year*

Brakes as mentioned is the obvious one for initial upgrade the hfx9’s can be a bit temperamental and very on/off. There have been developments in the chainset so down the line that may be something to look at but I wouldn’t bother till you knacker that one.

As for servicing you may want to look into a cannondale specialist for servicing of the lefty I don’t know if any of the big suspension service places do cannondale lefty forks. But there are a number of people who still use the lefty so don’t write it off.

For your shock you can do a basic service on it quite cheaply, have a look on you tube for fox air can service.

PP if they were my wheels that maybe for sale and not say some of yours that you may be considering selling to downsize the fleet I’d be valuing them at Hope DT 4.2 £160 posted £150 collected. Every one seems to want hope hoops. The DT240 hubs on 717 rims are an amazing pair of wheels that I wouldn’t look to part with for less than £200 but there are very few people out there that want to believe the 240 hub is superior to the pro2 so they may be a hard sell. Mismatched hubs will put a lot of people off the 240 XTR hub combo so that will probably be the wheelset with least value of the lot of them.

Not a ST4 owner so can’t comment on how easy or difficult it would be to replace/renew the bearings and bushes but in general if there is play in the rear end of a full-sus it will probably be down to one and/or the other.

Shock eyelet bushes are easy to replace and relatively cheap – £2 a bush and £10-20 for a tool to replace them. As these are designed as wear items this is always a good starting point for diagnosing any problems.

If once the bushes are replace there is still movement then look to replace the suspension bearings. If you contact Orange they should be able to tell you the bearings required for the bike. There is generally a visible bearing number on the bearings in the frame, you may need to remove bolts and washers to get a good look at the bearing number. Use these numbers to find replacements.

If no numbers are visible and you can remove them then simply bearings has a bearing finder tool if you can put in the dimentions of the bearing.