Can you not I-Spec the brakes & shifters together?
They’ll fit then.

I managed to codge an ispec shifter onto the matchmaker shifter hanger which you could hang off the reverb, but not if it’s upside down (i don’t think)

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-new-shimano-xt-10-speed-16-tooth-sprocket

Out of interest what kind of speeds/distances are you doing in the open cats?

^ It’s on Strava!

https://www.strava.com/segments/honc-2015-100km-9240873

My strive sits at some ridiculous angle, the jaws are nowhere near facing each other due to the shock box forcing the arm up to like a 25 degree angle but but i’ve not lost it yet after 000’s of miles. Wouldn’t worry about it.

(P.S. toe strap around the jaws I don’t rely on the lock alone. It can’t come off then.)

Not as far as I’ve found – Safer VPN only costs me about £4 a month though.

The only reference to the dune I could find was 135×12 – nothing about the newer ones it just says DT RWS so I assumed you knew it was 142. Is it definitely 142? Silverfish probably your best shout.

Zippy’s above link is what I tend to ride from Birmingham so I can get out quickly, you can easily link it in to Catshill just pick it up out of Fairfield, or go up Doctors Hill. You could only be 500m from it depending where you are exactly.

Strava link if you want a map rather than just the instructions: https://www.strava.com/activities/259056411

There’s 3 standards of 142×12 I think, E-thru, Syntace X12 and Maxle. Hubs crossover fine but i’m pretty sure the axles don’t. You need to find out which system it is, then get the appropriate axle.

Whichever one it is, DT swiss do a £25 RWS for it. You could maybe buy all 3 from CRC and send 2 back?

What about around the arse area?
Seem to remember getting a sore arse in the hot weather last year but never go round to doing much about it..

What am i now intent on doing BTW??
Should i be plotting to put my chav neighbour under the patio or just now riding faster?

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/anal-bleaching

100k in 5.59, was aiming for 6.30 so fairly happy for a first go, probably well behind most on here though!
The wind was horrible on the second half, did the first 60k in just over 3 hours and was feeling quite pleased, then the wind and the last climbs killed me!

Hope all enjoyed, great day out in the sun and thanks to all who helped organise 🙂

Loco if you do reappear did you catch my mail about the 32mm token kit sent earlier in the week? Id like one please if you have stock. Cheers 🙂

The same lot do the faster ratchet as well. Waiting to see how the Sunday ones go (they’re mine you lot 😉 If i miss those ill get some ordered they’ve quoted just over a ton with the xd driver which i figure is worth a poke.

Need some pics..

I am struggling to get the 100 mile gpx loaded onto my Garmin 500. In the past I have just put the gpx file into the ‘new files’ folder and the Garmin has recognised it with no issues – any thoughts?

Won’t take a GPX file. Upload it to bike hike, save it again as a TCX then put that in the new files folder.

I actually quite like the fact it’s a lot of road cos i’m so out of shape the idea of 70k on road is much more appealing!

So consensus is good… no 32h hubs though with centrelock.
Watching a pair of them on a bid ending sunday currently on £3… 🙂

Can’t decide on the 28h or not, using LB carbon rims and dt comps i’m hoping they’d hold up but at 85kg i’m not sure!

Although having said that my DT spline’s are 28h and have been ragged everywhere and are prefectly true but both sets of 32h wheels i’ve got are currently being rebuilt, one of which is only 6 months old! Planning to have a go at building these myself though with the wheelpro book so might not be as good.. 😳

Early upgrade = get them in for another 2 years before they realise their contracts nearly up and get a better deal elsewhere.

If you move they’re going to hold you to the full term. It was a struggle to get out of EE 3 months before the end of contract and they’d turned a mast off so we couldn’t even use the phones by then!

You just adapt your riding style. I’m noticeably quicker on the up 1x because it’s most efficient to get the cadence up and hold it as opposed to slowly grinding up when you can’t spin lower speeds. Definitely less Bobby as well. When I get tired and resort to mashing the pedals down in too high a gear it feels like pedalling through mud.

Same on the top, just using spinning technique to ride smoothly helps – this I really can’t do though. I couldn’t see myself going back to using a front mech after years without, but if I did it would be for the outer ring not the granny!

Turn on your ads, I seem to get flooded with belroy slim your wallet ads whenever Im not logged in!

Yeah mine split, warrantied not a problem though. But yes you can buy the new pike maxle and use that.
It’s not actually a load bearing part of the maxle though, just locks it so you can just file the slot square again when the corner breaks off!

Or there’s a few aftermarket, xc racer have the KCNC version in stock.

Assuming you want to ride from Edale and not do a massive ride you could also but look at the kinder loop as well on pg 69, it’s a bit longer but not by much as you’re adding a couple of k onto the mam tor route by starting in Edale anyway.

I’d go the opposite way to the book though, Jacobs ladder is a bit of a push but the mount famine descent is cracking, the climb up rushup is good and quite tricky to clean with the new resurface, you still get up to mam tor and a choice of a few good descents off Hollins Cross.

Yep. Although you could probably ride 10 different figure of 8 loops from edale taking in mam tor, you’d be hard pushed to do a bad one though.

Edit: cross post – but on that loop bear in mind rushup edge has been sanitised.

V5 should be the insurance address. There’s normally a question that asks if the car is registered to the address for insurance. You should really inform them of the exact situation to avoid any wriggle room.

I’ve got similar, 1 vehicle owned by the company which has its own premises but V5 is in my name and address, insurance in my name and address. Business address declared as a location the vehicle is often at.

If it’s any help i’m 6’2 with a longish trunk (32″) leg and I find lusso bibs in large the best fitting out there.

Weird off the bike yes but when on the bike great. Helps keep the belly tucked in too… 😆

B.
But B only works if you don’t go to the shops the next day and buy a load of 99p reduced easter eggs and do B again…

Only the SID XX is hydro, yes that one would require a whole new damper. Fork costs more than the RCT3 though so you wouldn’t want to start there if you didn’t want a lockout to start with?

You generally speaking just need the non remote top cap, they change a bit year to year.
Loco sorted me out, it took a couple of goes as there are a couple of different thread options on the crown but he found me one. The only other thing you have to do is take the damper out and disconnect the pop lock return spring. There’s a guide on here somewhere, but it’s quite easy.

If you go for anything RCT3 then you don’t have to worry about it as they are all crown adjust.

Speak to Loco, Dual flow is the biggest upgrade to the Reba IMO I think the damper is £120 and the dual flow rebound is £70.

Probably cheaper to start with SID’s. I upgraded as set of Reba’s to dual flow but didn’t do the damper and they were fantastic. Not sure why but they feel a LOT nicer than my current SID RCT3’s.

Reckon you could do a pair of light bicycle carbon rims on DT 350’s for around £500 if the lbs finishes them? Dtswiss calc shows 1530 grams the pair on revs.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cable-guide-where-could-i-get-one-of-these

Rockshox Reba RL. Good, cheap, and easy to service. (You probably want to do this more if you’ve trashed a set of bushes and stanchions!)

If you can get away with a green fork and need tapered then bike-discount have some very cool green ones with black stanchions for £230.

So when I asked if they’d all go, I was referring to one wheelset….
Not the other wheelset on the road bike, which went ping as it let go of a spoke earlier – that’s 2 rides this weekend and 2 roadside wheel truing sessions!

Cannondaleking – cheers but up in the west mids! 🙂

Pretty much any estate with a fold flat load bay and not a too sloping roofline will work.
New Passats don’t iirc, Octavia does, Astra, focus, mondeo all work.
Hyundai i40 doesn’t. Octavia needs an optional raiser to get a fold flat load bay.

Bear in mind it’s trickier with a remote dropper, seat post normally needs to come out or its both wheels off.

Well I did want to give wheel building a go….. Just not next week! Grr 😳

Freeview, Netflix & Eurosport sub for the 4 months the bikes are on. Red Bull TV also.
Have never missed sky and it’s a lot cheaper.

Depends on the job & relevance. I tend to skim mostly looking for a few key things, 2 pages is plenty, and then do more detail on request, or as a 2nd document, if it is something that would be beneficial to your application.

Take a look on the gpsies site, there’s a nice long run out from Cwmcarn to afan, you could start at cwmcarn and with a bit of planning turn it into a loop to get that distance?

You’ll be fine, those tyres will go tubeless easily, you should have 2 tubeless valves and valve core remover in with the bike, install those & buy a joe blow mountain track pump, a big bottle of no tubes fluid and a 60ml mini bottle or a syringe.
Wipe a bit of watered down fairy liquid around both beads, seat tyre, pump furiously until it pops a few times and takes shape. Remove the valve core and fill with about 120ml (2 mini bottles of sealant) fluid, replace core, reinflate, go ride.

Sometimes it can be easier to remove the valve core before first inflation and use the Schraeder end of the pump to seat the beads.

My experience of tp link is I wouldnt bother…

If it’s an old farmhouse I wouldn’t bother with anything wireless just hardwire it if possible. If that’s too much faff try a set of power line Ethernet adapters. See if you can take the bridge back in exchange for a power line kit? I’ve struggled to get even the best wifi kit to work in that kind of building. Stick with it its a good system for low faff music.

(Note the power line adapters need to be on the same circuit from the fuse box to work I think)