There’s quite a bit of friction in my gear cable in the length through the chain stay so considering running that length external to avoid the sharp bends and may do full outer with triple cable clamps on the downtube although you could drill out the hole in the downtube and run the outer through it.

My brother’s pike did this and so did mine, both replaced with brand new forks under warranty. Apparently my brother’s had an ovalised damper rod and mine went back to Germany but no specific reason was given. There is some thread lock on the foot bolt which I think stops it turning freely in the damper rod and then it’s FUBAR or maybe the threads just get damaged when it gets hit with a hammer. I think the trick is to fully remove the foot bolt and make sure the threads are clean then fully insert before backing off 4 turns and hitting it with a soft hammer.

Don’t think you’ll sort it at home without cutting it so assuming it’s under the 2 year warranty send it back.

I’ve got a 2014 Spectral 27.5 AL 8.0 with a 160 pike RCT3 (and Magic Mary up front just like Joe Barnes ;) ) and it is shizzz hot. The Fox 32 that came on it is on the hardtail and is quite rubbish really so it’s right to avoid it IMO. The 2015 Spectral 27.5 is a bit longer so can use a shorter stem which is more ‘duro and betterer so pay the extra euro to get the shortest they can supply that will still work for you.

As said 29er is more xc mile muncher and 27.5 is more fun.

Pike RC is the same as the RCT3 in every way when fully open which is how you’ll run it all the time. Otherwise it’s lock or not as opposed to 3 position.

I like my 2×10 but 1×11 is better if you don’t mind missing out a bit of range either end.

If you can afford it will this be quicker https://www.canyon.com/en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=3558

A nice ride out in the Peak District today, confirmed that reducing my volume spacer from the mid sized one, to the smallest (ie. 2 sizes smaller) now results in the correct ramp up and full travel usage for me.

Nice one, thanks for posting up.

My shock came fitted with a fairly small volume spacer as standard, has your’s now got a smaller spacer than the stock one?

I just use a normal topeak bag and zip tie it to the saddle rails to keep the strap at the top and stop it from moving much, only on hardtail though as full suss back wheel eats it when it’s dropped

Nice one. I’ve got a Spectral with a 150 Pike which is loads loads loads better than the 32 TALAS and have recently swapped the air shaft to make it 160 which surprisingly is better again as didn’t really think I’d notice it. I’m about to get the volume kit for the shock but after reading this may just get the air can as it’s cheaper than Monarch+ I’d been considering as a proper upgrade.

Post up after you’ve had a play with the volume spacers.

How can brake lever internals failing be classed as wear and tear?! Standard EU warranty is 2 years so if they don’t last that long then they’re not fit for purpose. I had Avid brakes of similar age with a lever problem fixed under warranty so it’s wrong they are trying to fob you off, it certainly doesn’t help their image for making rubbish brakes and isn’t going help Canyon sell bikes when they spec the brakes on their bikes. The fact the brake failing caused you to crash should set alarms bells off with them and get this resolved with as little fuss as possible!

I can imagine the Mary is draggy at 19/ 20 psi..

No different to 25psi but even if they were they grip on everything which is what’s important

WD40 worked on generic tape sticky when flash and 100% IPA didn’t

Got a Magic Mary on the front, it wasn’t as magic on wet rock at 25psi but dropped it to 20psi and now grips everywhere. Sounds low but it doesn’t feel close to dinging no matter how badly I smash through stuff

both mine have fallen off, I just make sure they’re nipped up tight. Wouldn’t use loctite after needing a new motorbike caliper due to loctite well and truly sticking a pad pin.

^ I had 2 of them (with T6 LED) mounted on the top of my lid which made my lid move about a fair bit, got one either side now and it’s much more balanced so lid doesn’t move and can’t really feel the extra weight plus I can pretend I’m in Orbital. Also I don’t think it’s a good idea mounting lights etc on the very top of your lid as if you go over the bars and land head first it greatly reduces how well the lid can absorb the impact risking neck and back compression injuries.

Has anyone got any decent suggestions for a cheaper Joystick equivalent? I guess a torch is what I’m looking for, something easily mountable and not to weighty.

It’ll be paired with a Lumenator on the bars; I’m finding the trailing wires really irritating this year.

5 mode http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023726

or 1 mode http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023724

They also do orange peel reflectors although the new XP-L LEDs are meant to have less of a hot spot and a more even beam so a smooth reflector should work well on your lid. I just use double sided velcro through a couple of lid vents to mount them. Obviously you need 18650 cells and charger

I knew this would be with conti tyres, they take longer to seal, mine have tiny bubbles around the tyre/rim bead for a day after doing them but after that they are fine. Conti don’t seem very tough though, currently getting on great with the Schwalbe Magic Mary on the front so hopefully that won’t change

http://www.akbearings.co.uk/default.asp?

AK bearings are the cheapest genuine decent brand bearings I can find, I’ve tried other apparently top quality bearings from well know sellers on ebay but they didn’t last so I’m not convinced they weren’t chinese copies.

blue stuff which is loctite 243, also it is “Proven to tolerate slight contaminations of industrial oils” although you should still clean the threads thoroughly

Had a bit of a play there last night, good to follow you down (even though I missed the turn to the bottom bit) and talk. Nice one digging and clearing it, it’s running boss.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/rockshox-pike-3wt-oil-and-bladder-bleed-tip-adaptor

Haven’t really looked into it yet but that does sound about right, taking a motion control damper out of a reba is a piece of p and it’s the same process really. Definitely use a socket rather than an adjustable spanner or you’ll damaged the bolt, it’s best to get the socket ground flat to take the chamfer off but if you press down hard it should be ok

It is a stupid price for a little brass adapter, I’d definitely be interested in buying a reasonably priced alternative from Epicbleed :tup:

Pulling the whole charger damper apart looks a bit of a task but replacing and bleeding the fluid seems pretty straight forward looking at the youtube vid.

Google?

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/rockshox/rear-suspension-damping-fluid-3wt-16oz-ec045695

http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m7b0s581p24245/Sram_RockShox_Rear_Suspension_Damping_Fluid_3wt_16oz_bottle

http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk//product.asp?category=840&part_no=R8010000A&find_category=&find_description=&find_part_desc=bleed

http://www.amazon.co.uk/RockShox-Bleed-Fitting-Charger-Damper/dp/B00H4F98YS

http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk//product.asp?category=840&part_no=R5011010&find_category=&find_description=&find_part_desc=bleed

Def recommended, should keep it working longer

Silicone spray/fork juice or suspension fluid, don’t use chain lube/WD40/GT85 or anything else that could damage the seals.

If you’ve had Avids you should be a pro bleeder ;)

I’ve used a couple of tricks from the Elixir bleed process to bleed Shimano brakes. First off degas the fluid in the syringe in the same way you do with Avid, it’s isn’t as necessary due to mineral oil not being hygroscopic like DOT 5 but plenty of air still comes out of solution. The other thing I do is after I’ve pushed the fluid from the caliper syringe to the lever funnel until fresh fluid is coming out I empty the dirty fluid from the funnel and fill it with fresh (degassed) fluid (push the caliper syringe a bit again to make sure any bubbles from removing the funnel come out) then pull back on the caliper syringe creating a vacuum in the syringe and pulling fluid from the funnel down into the syringe. Keep an eye on the funnel fluid level as you would with the gravity method and bag on the caliper tube but the syringe method seems to remove the air bubbles better. I push the fluid back and forth between the syringe and funnel a few times to make sure all the air is out, be careful how much of a vacuum you create with the syringe as it will pulling on the balder and seals in the lever. After this the gravity method produces zero bubbles so I don’t bother with it now but still do the last lever tapping thing.

Regarding the Shimano XT free stroke adjustment > http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated/

Free stroke is defined as stroke of the lever before the pads start touching the rotor. The free stroke screw simply changes the starting point of the master cylinder piston. If the screw is all the way in, the master cylinder piston will be all the way in, and the free stroke will be the shortest. Turn the screw out a bit and the master cylinder will start further out. Because it has to travel further before it closes off the reservoir port, the free stroke is longer. In the picture of the clear brake posted above, the free stroke screw is turned all the way in.

I’ll admit that it is confusing because it seems to have the opposite effect when you turn the screw. The stock position is all the way in and that’s where most people like them. If you do nothing but turn the screw out, the pad contact point moves out. So it feels like you’ve made the free stroke shorter. The problem is that turning the free stroke screw also effects your initial reach adjustment. The pad contact point came out, but the starting position came out more. So it’s always at least a three-step process. First set the reach adjustment so that the lever starts where you want it, then adjust the free stroke screw to get the amount of free stroke you want, then turn the reach adjust knob to put the lever back where you wanted it.

I would personally like to see a lever that allows for an even shorter free stroke adjustment but as it is, when the free stroke screw is all the way in, the master cylinder is right up against the reservoir port. So really the only way to give people less free stroke would be to sacrifice clearance between the pad and rotor.

I got a pair of TLD ace shorts last year and they’re better than the Fox altitude shorts which I thought were perfect. Very comfy, the liner is very very comfy and they’re tough (unmarked even though my thigh looked like I’d been riding in speedos and fell off). Silly money really but they are brilliant, I was put off by the velcro fly but from day one it’s been fine and prefer it now. Got some china copy TLD moto which are much heavier but also good if you’re not on a pedally epic

There is a bit of air in the lever which can easily be removed by doing the last stage of the bleeding instructions, this can also be done every now and again between full bleeds if performance drops. With the funnel on the lever half and full of oil angle it up and down 30° and flick/pull the lever blade so bubbles float up into the funnel, it also helps to tap the lever body with a screwdriver handle and tilt the lever so the bleed port is highest.

I couldn’t notice a specific difference at first as the bikes were so different in nearly every way but now I’ve got used to the new bike and can compare it subjectively with the 26er I do think the 27.5 wheels are better, sorry for not agreeing with the stick in the muds

Nealy, where are you getting the Shimano manufactured pads at that price? That’s like a tenner a pair. Or when you say 4x do you mean a complete set front and back?? If so a complete set of the Rahox are like €32. They aren’t the cheapest, for me to buy here they are a bit cheaper than manufacturers pads, but for me they work better. Based on testing about 3 pairs.

Edit: Looking at the web I think the überbike ones are about €10 compared to €15 for the Rahox. I’ve not tried the überbike ones so can’t compare. For me a few euros either way isn’t important for pads.

All prices I worked out were 4x sets/8x pads/2x F&R Sets

Shimano resin pads €8.02 per pair plus €5.95 postage for order http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/disc-brake-pads-resin-g01a-53981

Shimano metal pads €12.05 per pair plus €5.95 postage for order http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/disc-brake-pads-g03s-metal-br-m985-785-666-60885

I’ve got uberbike sintered in my SLX brakes 180F/160R on my hard tail and Shimano finned metal F03C in my XT brakes 200F/180R on my full suss and they feel the same and I’d only put the extra power on the front of the full suss down to the larger rotor based on previous experience. All pads and rotors were bedded in properly. To be honest you don’t need finned pads in the UK but they do look nice, doubt I’ll pay extra for them when they need replacing.

Running Uberbike race matrix in ours with no problems. Just bought a few sets for our next Alps trip. Been using them since last year including the Alps and in the Peak through the winter. Managed to mix and match so got them for the xt’s and the xx’s

Credit to the race matrix the first set did last most of the winter but were only killed by the really bad weather in the peaks at the start of this year, for 90% of the year they are better than sintered

from here > http://reviews.mtbr.com/rockshox-pike-fork-and-monarch-plus-shock-sea-otter-2013

The RCT3 offers three adjustment modes, open, pedal and lock, and has a adjustable low speed compression in open. The simpler RC has an open mode to one with increasing compression all the way to lock. Both Charger damper versions feature their Rapid Recovery rebound damping technology, which keeps the fork high in its stroke in the softest part of the spring curve, without packing down from multiple successive bumps, letting the fork do the work instead of the rider.

I thought the RC didn’t have rapid recovery but apparently it does

doug_basqueMTB.com – Member
I recently came across a brake company called Rahox, http://www.rahoxbrakes.com/shimano-brake-pads/ They are based in my town although I don´t know the guys yet but the pads are manufactured in Japan. They sent me a set of pads to test and I couldn´t really be bothered because what am I going to write about pads! They were really, really good though. They don´t need bedding in, I don´t know how that works, and I found them really powerful and they really reduced the squealing in my formula brakes. I´ve only tested the superspeed compound so far and it´s lasting up well on two sets of brakes. You can order over the internet but also one guest from this year was so impressed he was looking at trying to get them stocked in bike shops around Aberdeen.
I did manage to write some words about the pads over here… Rahox Brake Review

Basically not as expensive as manufacturers pads, not as cheap as superstar but performance is above both of those. Tested in the Pyrenees so I haven´t really tested them in muck and filth yet! Please excuse typos etc, still on 1st cup of coffee and long night with the baby last night.

Reading the review they do sound good but the price difference is significant and they’re the most expensive

£23 – 4x Uberbike sintered
£30 – 4x Uberbike Race Matrix

£32 – 4x Shimano resin (not finned)
£45 – 4x Shimano metal sintered (not finned)

£55 (€67.80) – 4x Rahox Superspeed
£58 (€71.80) – 4x Rahox Hyperspeed

I hated superstar sintered, noisy and felt harsh. Got uberbike sintered now and they are great, very quiet, feel pretty nice (although still not as nice as organic) and can’t tell the difference between them and proper shimano sintered ice tech pads I’ve got on the other bike. Also like ubrebike race matrix but the winter peak district filth was eventually too much for them and their sintered are so good I can’t be bothered swapping them now

Skoda Superb Estate is huuuge and does very well is reviews as does the slightly smaller Octavia estate

You don’t want grease though because it’s sticky, wax and graphite and/or teflon powder is pretty much the same (I think) as the putolin stuff

Specialized lodown, spesh gloves are great

make your own, from ebay get some pelleted paraffin wax (without stearin) and graphite powder. Think the ratio I used was 25% graphite powder. Don’t do it in the kitchen ever under any circumstances ever!

bend the spring apart using an alen key or similar pushed into fold

£2 lidl or aldi ones work fine, bought 2 and still on first one although it’s hardly robust. I use rock n roll so most of the time when i use it it’s just with water from the hose rather than degreaser

Deore is below XT and XTR…but then so is Alivio and Acera ;)

Fox Launch Pro, very very comfy, don’t slide down, loads of protection and wash well

You’re meant to cover the whole width of the rim bed (horizontal) but not extend up the rim wall (vertical), I used a full width roll of gorilla tape and started a cut for the correct width and then just torn it along its length (like you do across to tear a piece off) as I wrapped round the rim