The pressure chart on the leg is way to high. For your weight I’d suggest 100. Best thing is to try and get the sag right, with full riding kit, first, but 100 is going to be about right

I agree with iainc. I am 169 and run about 80 psi in mine and get close to full travel. Running the “recommended” pressures I rarely got more than 50-60% of travel.

Are you adding sealant? WTB tubeless tires are “tubeless ready”, which means that you must add sealant otherwise the porous rubber will leak out air fairly quickly.

You could try this DIY mod.

You need the 168. One of my mates has the same bike and recently confirmed with Trek that he needs the 168 Q-factor cranks for the XX1 chainset.

I’ve been on a 1×10 setup for 2+ years now. I love it. If you’re riding is in a particularly hilly area and/or climbing isn’t your strong suit, you may want a 11-36 cassette. I run a clutch mech and a top guide and chain retention is very solid.

I imagine that would cost more than a genuine XX1 setup…

Yes, if buying new. I got a good deal on a used XO chainset with worn rings on ebay, and added a 32T XX1 ring. All cost about £40 less than the bike-discount.de price.

SRAM XO chainset with an XX1 spider/ring.

To add to what has already been suggested…

– Rear skewer might need some grease and/or additional torquing up.
– (Some) Chain ring bolts might be a little loose.

I have a Galaxy S3 too. You can use the app without the back button but it is certainly convenient to have one!

By the way, you can enable ‘soft buttons’ (on screen instead of hardware buttons) on the S3 by following this guide[/url].

As honourablegeorge advised, Stendec Easy Glide fork grease is good stuff.

IOS or Android? I have an Android phone and I find Orux Maps very nice.

Shimano AM51 shoes. 3+ years of all-season riding and they’ve been fantastic except in the wettest/coldest conditions. Super durable, too.

Dakine Nomad pack: Great storage capacity and nice bladder.

KS i950R dropper post.

I have G-form kneepads are rather minimal and have good front impact protection but don’t count on effective side protection. I have another pair, Race Face Dig, which I use uplift days or rougher trails and they’re comfortable enough for a 3-hour ride or so.

To add to what couldashouldawoulda’s said about the “hydro locked” symptoms: if you’re not able to get a near complete lock out if you turn the damper knob clockwise all the way, then damper oil is low and has most likely migrated to the lower right leg. Faulty o-ring is usually the culprit. Easy enough fix if you’re comfortable with DIY lower leg service.

Kitsbow[/url]. Not cheap, though.

I’ve had a KS i950 for two years now and it it has been fine (2-3 rides a week). I take it apart for a clean and lube every two months or so. The only time it really acted up is when I neglected the regular service and there was a build up of dirt at the actuation arm at the top of the post. Still working as new. I only want a Lev because of the fixed cable anchor and the shielded actuation mechanism.

The only thing I don’t like about the Reverb is actually the hydraulic actuation. Rip a hydraulic line in the middle of nowhere and you can’t just rebleed the thing on the trail. With a KS (or the rest of them for that matter) it’s just a regular shifter cable.

I posted a thread this morning asking for experiences with new 146 frames, and someone mentioned that there were issues with “the bonding failing on the alu sleeve used in the seatclamp area.”.

The Citizen World Chronograph matches what you’re looking for. I have a G-Shock Riseman, which is atomic, solar and has a stopwatch plus a bevy of other functions, but it’s certainly not a dress/classic watch.

Many thanks for the information, nodrog2.

Most bikes don’t have the 146’s track record (whyte dealer ex-employee).

Has this been the case with the 146 since the model was released in 2011? I mean, from what I have read on here it seems like there were particularly bad production batches in 2012.

nodrog2, cheers for the input. Any idea if the ones you’ve seen were being warrantied due to parts issues or problems with the frames?

Rorschach, the non transferrable warranty is risk I am willing to take. That’s an issue with most second hand bikes, is it not? The one I am looking at is a fairly good deal, so if the new frames are a significant improvement, I might take my chances.

Sometimes it is tricky to track down the actual culprit of creaks because sound travels easily in bike frames, and they could be mistaken for worn BBs or linkage bearings when they might be just, as cynic-al said, dry threads on BB cups/pedals/skewers.

I had a maddening creak on my Marin that I thought was the BB. Turned out to be nothing but a slightly loose rear QR that needed a little grease on the cam mechanism. Creak gone.

Also, Hollowtech II bottom bracket are serviceable to squeeze a little more life out of them if the bearings are not already rusted. Just pop off the plastic and rubber seals on the cups with a pick and repack with grease.

I went 1×9 a month ago. Wanted to go 1×10 with a 11-36 cassette but I already have some nice XT/XTR bits so don’t want to sell at a loss and buy lower tier 10 speed bits just now. Setup is a 32T E13 Guidering with an 12-34 XTR cassette, XT Shadow mech, E13 XCX (BB mount) and an XTR 9 speed chain. I really like the setup and rarely miss the granny. When it’s time for 1×10 the 36T cog will provide a little bit more oomph on the steepest of hills. The only time I ever really use the big ring up front is on the road on the way to the trails.

Been using lock-ons with truvativ noir and Easton carbon bars for several years now with no problems. Using a little carbon paste prevents resorting to over tightening the rings if they’re slipping.

Trailraker 2.1 UST front and rear for me. Good luck everyone!

I went to Chatel last summer and did a bit of everything (guided XC rides and a few days doing the lifts in Pre Le Joux bike park and others ). I had one bike, a Marin Mount Vision 5.8 with a 130mm fork and 160mm rotors and after a week of really good riding, all I needed to replace was my rear tires (sidewall cut) and brake pads.

Of course riding styles and terrain conditions will vary, but don’t believe anyone who tells you that you can’t have fun in the Alps expect on a DH bike.

Keep the mud tires on boys and girls. Raining quite heavily right now :|

I was there yesterday afternoon and the trails were nice and dry, but I am keeping my mud tires on for the race :)

Rode Stanmer today for the first time. Was shown around the great singletrack the park has to offer by a very helpful (and bloody fast) local (Dave if you see this sorry I lost you when I stopped to look for my dropped phone, and thanks!). Was generally very muddy but appears to be drying up fast if this weather holds until the race.