My first car, when I was 18 was a Mk2 Escort, 1600 Ghia X, 4 door with a black vinyl roof with square headlights.. It cost a whole £100 and managed to get it sideways on the drive home from picking it up.. I also got banned from driving, tbh it probably saved my life and others! On the motorway you could watch the fuel gauge move, not as bad as a 2.8 Capri, but definitely still noticeable.

The floor was rust, I found this when trying to jack it up and the jack went up, the car did not. The heater matrix leaked, the windscreen leaked and the radiator leaked. The brake master cylinder had a leak, so you HAD to pump the brakes for them to work. Anything under 35mph and it would start to overheat. If you went round a corner at normal speed it would lean on to its bump stops, anything faster and it would zigzag out of a corner, hitting the left bump stops, then the right, then the left… I fitted a stereo, but it only worked if you shoved a 3.5″ floppy between the fascia and stereo.. Funny thing is I mentioned this to a friend and he had the same stereo, we worked out it was his stereo, 10 years before we knew each other.

But… It was my first car and I loved it, it was red, actually it was near white when I got it. With a lot of sweat and T-Cut it was bright red by the time I scrapped it!

Like this:

Loose the keys for a week. When she has to get the bus and can’t nip to the shops etc, she might take notice. Caught speeding 5 times and no sign of slowing down, I’ll be brutal. She deserves everything she gets, I do feel sorry for the family as its not just her the ban or jail time will affect.

Printed a pair of Snowboarding Wall Brackets:

Surprisingly bigger than I expected, took 3 hours each with 35% infill.

Printed a couple of GPU brackets for a mining rig and PCI-E locking clips.

Still have to re-design and print some Logitech pedal covers for a sim rig, but I’ve lost interest in designing them. I have some new filament to try, but don’t have anything to print!

Sod it – I’ll go and ride Coed-y-Brenin and give it a miss this time I think. Didn’t even think about snow! I’ll leave it for a dawn raid in summer…

Antur Stiniog is pretty close to Beddgellert. Uplifts for the win!! ;-)

Yea, I had the same thing. Looks like a bite or something, but only on one part of the tape. I think it was where it was pulling against the skin creating heat/burn. The following week I didn’t have any problems, but I was a lot more careful with it pulling on my skin.

I would be tempted to buy a 2nd hand mining card for gaming, it will be a lot cheaper and you should be able to do 4k @ 60fps.

Make sure you change the device type to PC on your TV, otherwise the chroma subsampling maybe incorrect, you want 4:4:4, your manual should tell you how to achieve this. This means text will not be displayed correctly, it can look a bit blurry and sometimes as though its changing colour, despite it being black text.

@milkie not a bad idea to mine it during he day, dosnt that not just ‘wear’ the GPU having it cranking  at full all the time?

If anything there is less wear and tear with mining. You generally underclock and undervolt the card to improve efficiency, so you actually turn the GFX card down. Gaming you overvolt, overclock the card, basically running above the specs they designed it to, mining you run it slower/cooler than gaming.

Miners are concerned with getting the card to last as it may take a year or so to make the money back. Hardcore gamers not so much, they will sell it 2nd hand in 6 months for more money than they paid when they bought it, due to increasing GFX card prices, due to miners.

E46 M3 – If you don’t mind high running costs and low MPG… This is STW, so I’ll go with you do mind those..

So for the BMW range, that leaves you with the 335i or a 130i, just north above 10k will get you the 135i.

Console is a lot cheaper..

For a decent PC 4k gaming rig (60+fps), you need a very expensive GFX card. The only way of bringing down the cost of PC rig is to make sure its an efficient build with a decent graphics card for mining/gaming and mine during the day, this should reduce the cost of the graphics card over the lifetime of the card.

As for your old E3 CPU, I also have one! I’ll be using mine in a mining rig as it has low power consumption.

Been a NordVPN user for a couple of years now. I think it was £70 for 2 years and 6 devices. Loads of servers, including ones for P2P/Video/Everything Else. Very easy to use and no complaints here, really good speeds on P2P too.

Interview dress etiquette

Well… If your name is Benjamin then a dress maybe not appropriate, but if its Samantha it might be ok. ;-)

I know many of us have ridden with one of the guys as he guides for The White Room. He is a good rider, I’m sure he’d be a great coach too unsure if he goes tuition during the guiding season. For your first Alps experience I would also suggest The White Room too.

I was like OMG OMG watching your video! I agree that 234°C does seem the best, but tbh none of that print looks any good. I can just see that you had a problem on layer 2/3ish.

I haven’t printed in PETG as I haven’t needed anything better than PLA, it seems find for mounts/spacers/tools. My experience is only with PLA really, I do have some ColorFabb nGen to try though.

I have found if I print at a lower temperature it is, the less likely it will warp from the bed, but also less likely to stick to the bed.

If the temperature is too low, I can peel the layers apart, they don’t bond.

If the temperature is too high, the PLA becomes too brittle.

I print at a lower temp than higher, prints come out better, bridging better, quality better. If I start getting underextrusion then i generally know to bump up the temp by 5-10°C, if that doesn’t work I clean my nozzle inside n out.

Regarding the Slicer differences, have you setup the slicer profiles so they are using one for your printer? I remember having a print similar to yours and it was because the profile was not for my printer.

I had a problem with some other sticky tapes and was told by the manufacture that adhesive tapes don’t stick very well when below 20°C ish. You can also completely ruin the adhesive if it’s at a very high temp and will never stick well again.

As above, make sure the rim is warm room temp along with the tape.

http://www.managingcommunities.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/not-sure-if-trolling.jpg

I’ve never had a problem holding the nozzle on the rollers at 45° angle, squeezing the bottle a little bit, spinning the crank and I end up with drop on each roller. Works with everything from Squirt to Halfrauds stuff.

Like this:

I remember calling them Golliwogs and was told as a kid, that the Wogg part was the problem and should call them Golli’s. I also had no idea about Woggs and found that quite strange as a kid.

My opinion is the term is racist if calling a person that. Calling a badge/doll by that name isn’t, but I can understand if some people feel offended by it.

It hasn’t crashed, but it has had a couple of second’ish pauses. I use the OctoPi for transferring gcode files to the printer SD card by WiFi. I then start the print from the printer as I like to be there when the first layer is being printed. This means it doesn’t do anything weird like crash or pause. I can then use OctoPi to cancel the print, view the print and see how far along it is. Probably the best bit on OctoPi is the TimeLapse feature. I keep forgetting about it and you cannot start it once you have started a print. One day I might remember.

I know that feeling about not having to time to configure! I really should print a few things to configure the settings and get it dialled in, but I don’t have the time.

I hadn’t switched my printer on in quite a while, I just turned it on and started printing. It didn’t have a dust cover, so the bed was covered in dust, I didn’t level the bed, and didn’t clean and lube the rods! Printed really well though, once I dusted it with my hand.

When I could be bothered and had time. I would print these:
Calibration Tower, for getting the right temperature
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:729703

This one helps with overhangs and finding any loose belts, etc.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1019228

I would also print another tower in vase mode, with temperature decreasing every 10/15mm to find out which temperature was the strongest. It is worth doing, but if you are changing brands of filament you end up having to do it with each roll.

Managed to setup my OctoPi to control my printer. I can now control it by the built in webpage, or if I can’t connect to my home network I can control it via Telegram which is very much like Whatsapp.

Now I have managed to reduce the focal length of the camera, I can design a new mount for it, currently it is held in place with some Gorilla tape & card. ^The yellow thing is an old mount I thought I would print to see if it can be adapted.

After printing a couple of things this week (clip mount above and front face for the OctoPi), I have noticed I need to replace a couple of things. I need to replace the bronze bushings, 8mm rods (x8) and bearings. It does make quite a noise on fast small movements due to a bit of play between rods/bearings/bushings, but the quality is still good. I just can’t find any info on how to replace the rods!

Not a **** chance!

I’ve prepared my Strawberry Compote and shredded Chicken ready for tonight. I’ve just gotta make the pancake and American pancake batter at lunch ready for this evening.

Going to do these tonight

Creamy chicken, spinach and pancetta pancakes

We’ll also be having:
American Bacon n Cheese with Broccoli and Maple Syrup
Kinder Egg Pancakes
Nutella and about a million other sweet pancakes with some form of Chocolate
Maple Syrup and Squirty cream now added!

Will 12 eggs be enough for 3 people tho..

I think the CR10 is based on Marlin firmware, therefore you just need to add an extra line to the start of the gCode.

http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html

Taken from the link below:
…navigate via the main menu of the printer to Control>Motion>Steps/mm and enter it there. Alternatively put a M92 command into the start gcode of your slicer.

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-10/forums/general/topic:19224

I can highly recommend Washing Machine Anti Vibration Pads:

https://www.floormats.co.uk/washing-machine-mats?gclid=CjwKCAiAweXTBRAhEiwAmb3Xu-rcrTQFjQ4xXnZlZYevC98Z6h0lgTSVHfvY8del0MugWL-XIg8IyhoChloQAvD_BwE

I have a couple of 20mm thick ones on a sim rig and it cuts the vibrations down by quite a lot and there is a lot of vibrations with the bass shakers. I haven’t bought one for my printer though. I’m also using an old TV cabinet for my printer with a couple of paving slabs on the bottom shelf which has helped reduce any wobble the printer creates.

WCA – Your print is looking a lot better! Have you solved the infill issue now?

“Milkie, so what does the OctoPi bring to the table? I keep seeing it mentioned but haven’t looked into it yet.”

OctoPi is for controlling your printer, slicing, live viewing the print, creating a timelapse. I use it for uploading my gcode files to the printer SD card, pre heating and remote viewing with a Pi Camera. I also have a touchscreen that you can control the printer with, but I prefer using my iPhone. It has Cura built in with the capability of slicing. I think I have it setup so I get a notification on my phone when a print has finished.

TimeLapse with this would be great, but I need to find a location for the camera that doesn’t interfere with the head, doors, rods, belts and has shorter focal length than the Pi Cam. I need about a 20cm focal length.
EDIT: Just found our you can rotate to Pi Cam lens to reduce focal length.

Try Yellow Jersey.

Clicking on the feeder reel usually means its skipping, therefore will under extrude. Causes for this could be, hot end not hot enough or partial blockage, or the feeder wheel needs cleaning out.

PLA would be easier as the optimum settings are a wider range. You don’t need the settings bang on with PLA to get a half decent print. I agree PETG is a better material but harder to dial the settings in, especially when you don’t have the experience yet.

This has inspired me to dust of my printer, update my OctoPi and print a few things for my sim rig! ;-)

My best piece of advice for designing 3D models is there is no right or wrong way, just might be a quicker way. ;-)

Replies Created seems pretty pants..
It shows my replies, but does not show which topic the reply is related to.
Click on the “Posted 2 Hours ago” just puts that reply at the top of my screen.

Still not got any buttons for quotes/bold/urls/etc.

EDIT: Just realised the above replies, saying the same thing.

WCA – I’m thinking a setting somewhere in the slicing is incorrect. Are you using a profile for your printer? It looks like it is under extruding on the infill, which could be the printer not being able to print that fast, most slicers will speed up the infill compared to the outline. Try slowing the infill speed down.

EDIT: Just seen your video, I think those print speeds are about the fastest it can print, trying bringing the infill speed down.

Top/Bottom Layers – This should be set to about 5-8 depending on the layer height. What you are seeing in your print is pillowing, but this is also be because the infill isn’t being laid correctly
Shell Thickness – Increasing this will help retain the detail in the print, especially if there are overhangs and things. I usually always print with a minimum of 2, but you do have a nice simple print.
Skirt – Increase this to 2 or 3. This will mean you can level the bed while it prints this, giving a you a bit more time to get it level. You’ll be able to judge if the lines are too thin or thick after a few times.

Buy yourself a roll of PLA, the last thing you want to do is spend hours chasing the settings and find out it was a bad roll of filament.. Trust me, I’ve been there!

“i have modified the model to put a face on the top where it appears to be missing and then projecting it 1mm back into the model. Hopefully that makes sense and we shall see what tomorrow brings.”
When designing models, always make the part solid, your slicer will then replace the solid part with infill/top bottom layers based on your settings. You can always put the model on dropbox and I can run it through my slicer to see if the model is the problem.

Those dots on your skirt look like under extrusion. I don’t think you need to increase your extrusion multiplier, while it might fix it I don’t think it is the root cause.

It could be cause by a little nozzle blockage, especially if you are noticing it on one side the print. Or it could be the coil is tangled slightly. This is assuming your settings are correct and its slicing it correctly.

Did you design it yourself? If so, these tutorials might help with designing for 3D printing.
https://www.stratasysdirect.com/resources/design-guidelines/fused-deposition-modeling
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-parts-fdm-3d-printing

Maybe this troubleshooting guide will help.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Yes there is a lot to learn to get good print results. Good settings for one model will not be the same for a different model. You’ll find you have settings for great quality another set for overhangs, etc. It really depends on the finish you are happy with.

Hit Edit – Page Cannot Be Found

Go To Profile / Replies Created
Yea this is great, it shows me the replies I have created, but doesn’t tell me what topic it is in or when the latest post was. Click “Posted x minutes ago” does nothing except align the post with the top of the screen.

Also seeing a lot of this in different topics/posts
<p style=”margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; outline: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; background: transparent; line-height: 1.2em;”>Don’t worry that won’t happen Pinkster. Oh!</p>

Oh and preview does not work for me.

So where are these buttons?

Fusion360 is what I use for designing. Loads of tutorials on it on YouTube.

I use Simplify3D, but that’s not free, but pretty awesome at the time I bought it.
Cura is free.

Here is a list:
https://all3dp.com/1/best-3d-slicer-software-3d-printer/

OMG how dirty is your nozzle, that is supposed to be brass colour! I think something is wrong though, if I extrude like that it ends up in a nice coil on the bed, not tangled up, but I have a different printer.

Rather than slicing the whole model, can you slice the first 10mm as the problems seem to occur by then? Will reduce the slicing time down by quite a bit I would think!

I generally find to sort out these problems, you need to watch it, so you can see what causes the problem. 30 mins to slice tho!!! I just sliced it to see if I could see any issues, I won’t tell you how many seconds it took. I did notice there are a few overhangs, while this should be fine, if you haven’t got your settings dialled in they do tend to compound over each layer.

I’ve found if I’m chasing my settings and prints aren’t consistent then its usually the material. Also if you have had a few bad prints and the nozzle has dragged over cooled material, there maybe a tiny blockage in the nozzle. Best way to find this is buy extruding some material and if it spirals or goes off to one size, rather than directly down, then its usually got a small blockage. eSun Cleaning material is great for this, the Atomic method also works with this, I also use it when changing material.

Replying to topics, reply not appearing, but then get a message saying its a duplicate post… But it doesn’t show in the topic. Also very slow, timed out a couple of times trying to post a reply.

What is the rough timescale on getting this forum fixed?

Wow! I can’t believe this forum is still broken!

As above, bring them inside, get them warm, IPA to clean the area of any oil/grease, heat again to burn off residue. Fill with nail varnish, leave inside for 24 hours and then use wet n dry to get nice n flat.

The Beer Drinking Game:

Had some very very hazy nights playing this game.

Last couple of years we have stayed in Painted Cliffs at the top of the upper village. Decent size, well equipped, pretty cheap and relatively quiet. We had a neighbour for one whole weekend! Buses run every half an hr and you can put 2 bikes on them which is handy after a good days riding.