Dipper from Gravity Sports let me demo a bike with Deville and VIPr – I wrote a review at the time on here so worth digging that out for a read.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/bos-vs-fox-there-is-only-one-way-to-find-out-fight

I liked them. When I next need forks they will be on the short list.

I hope for a good outcome. I’ve not used Zoke’s for a few years but I’m always tempted to come back as I have happy memories of them.

I’ve had mine nearly two years and it now looks pretty beaten up 😀

The best thing is the instant shifting up and down, so much so that it’s a revelation and hence for any little doonhall bits I find myself using the HS rather than trawling through gears at the back. Going from an HS bike back to a front mech is a disaster… so I ditched the front mech on the hardtail and went 1×9, which is ace on a 25lb hardtail… but not so on a 33lb AM bike.

I need my super low “winching” gears for the big mountains where I live so run the 22 with an 11-34 9sp rear. This gives me the same spread as 22/36 front 11-34 rear – which I find perfect.

The one flaw (other than weight) with the HS is the drag in the overdrive… but there is a simple solution to this which is don’t use the overdrive unless you have to. If you look at the gear spread there are only three/four? gears which the overdrive gives you which you don’t already have. So you very rarely “need” to use the overdrive, especially for when your putting effort into the cranks, and it’s only under effort which you notice the “drag”. Getting out of the saddle and “honking” when in the overdrive feels odd and is daft, just use the gears at the back so your not feeling the drag. With the HammerSchmidt I’m spending much more time down in the little sprockets at the back which are gears you usually avoid with a tripple up front due to slack chain and risk of chainsuck/fall-off… but because of the HS this is not an issue as the chain can’t fall off at the front, and the chain is much tighter as you can run a short chain (and a dinky Saint rear mech like me). Because of this change in how I use my gears I find I’m wearing the gears differently, I usually wear out the big three at the back because those are the gears I use most in granny and middle to keep the chain tight.
So… a little change in how you use your gears is required to make the best of the HammerSchmidt. Don’t use the Hammer and use the spread at the back, then come the doonhall… drop the Hammer and give it the beans as usual, but if you stall or hit a techy manouver a quick stab with the left thumb and your in the granny and through, then stab again and back up to speed… awesome!

Maintenance – I clean mine quite often as I find it does get some crap in it. In the winter I’ve found it best to run it with oil rather than grease due to the grease freezing (I’m up north, and I do the same with my Hope Pro2 hubs which also makes them freewheel better… a good loose spinning freehub is also a good idea with the HS as it limits your chain slapping about). The cable needs to be good and clean as this can cause problems as the spring tension is not huge.
The plastic chainguard thing can be snapped off and it makes no difference – mine is long gone and the chain still won’t fall off. Without the chainguide it’s much easier to clean out the mud which gathers in this area and gets compacted by the chain… just pop the chain over the cranks… mud is never an issue when riding but it does build up in this area.
Still on the original bottom bracket which feels great (and my HS was second hand).

So… in summary… if you like your riding techy and fun, and your bike is too heavy or/and where you live too hilly for 1×9 (1×10) then a HammerSchmidt is ace (I hate front mechs for the biking I enjoy).

I guess this all sounds very positive? On the downsides it really is bloody heavy 🙄 On a light bike or if you lived somewhere flat I don’t think it would be clever as you would be spending more time in the overdrive which would become an irritation. For me and where I ride I love it.

When they ask if you have let the air out of the tyres say yes – even if your running tubeless with sealant and obviously haven’t. Tyres that can take 60-80psi but are only pumped to 30psi will be fine.

Rotors off is a top TOP TOP[/b] tip.

I’ve got a wooden off road like-a-bike to sell.

Email in profile.

Car park bounce tests tell you very little except that both ends are moving. Get it on the trail and see how it feels.

@ Oscillate Wildly

Yes – Nicholas Fenwick – His email is at the bottom of his item pages on ebay – Send him an email – he had some scratched “seconds” when I was looking 8)

Unless your a total c&*& you can tell him thepimpmessiah sent you 😉

Nicholas is easy to deal with.

http://stores.ebay.fr/nfcycling?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Weights…

Hope V2 – F = 350g and R = 370g = 720g, and add 200g for each 205 rotor = 1120g
RX – F = 246g and rear = 250g = 496g and the discs are 85g (160) and 125g (180) = 706g
Th1 – F 205g and R = 239g = 444g, and the discs are 85g (160) and 125g (180) = 654g

Ignoring adapters and bolts which both need anyway.

The TH1’s have funky gold Alloy Torx bolts which might be a problem.

😳

What I posted on the R1 thread

I have RX on one bike and TH1 on another, both with 180/160 rotors.

For complete AM/DH tomfoolery I found the RX lacking just a bit even with 200/180 rotors, hence the purchase of TH1’s. I tried the TH1’s with 180/160 and it’s all I need on my big bike. Fabulous brakes and not much heavier than R1’s. Some riders report that TH1’s are grabby but I don’t find that… My Hope V2’s were grabby though!

For me on my hardtail the RX are spot on but for a bigger bike taking on big mountains I would go TH1.

I was still on original pads on both brakes until recently when the RX’s gave up – original RX pads can get a bit stinky when you press them hard but the TH1’s do not. Different pads I assume.

I love the one fingerness of the lever and the brilliant modulation of the Formula brakes. I’d love two pairs TH1’s but what I’ve got is perfectly fine 8)

Can’t help with R1’s, but I have RX on one bike which are similar, and TH1 on another, both with 180/160 rotors.

For complete AM/DH tomfoolery I found the RX lacking just a bit even with 200/180 rotors, hence the purchase of TH1’s. I tried the TH1’s with 180/160 and it’s all I need on my big bike. Fabulous brakes and not much heavier than R1’s. Some riders report that TH1’s are grabby but I don’t find that… My Hope V2’s were grabby though!

For me on my hardtail the RX (and by assumption R1) are spot on, but for a bigger bike taking on big mountains I would go TH1.

Mavic rims are stronger and better made than Stan’s

Based on what?

My experience… 😉

Better made – see the joins on stans vs. the joins on Mavic.

Stronger – In my experience… from trying to repair a dinged rim bead Mavic’s have thicker material and bend back to shape nicely; Stans are thinner and made of a substance that has a tendency to crack. Also… when I’ve killed a Mavic wheel and stamped/bent it back into shape to get home it’s been harder to achieve than on a Flow… obviously none of these are “scientific” or “engineeringy” but I’m happy with what I said as an “observation” on two of the important qualities of the two

UST 2.2 RQ are now available in Black Chilli.

FWIW – The UST are much heavier, about the same as a tube surprisingly… and they also don’t ride as well as the non UST thanks to the beefy sidewalls (2.4″). So this is what I do… run the non UST tubeless (which take a few days to seal) and run the risk of the odd torn sidewall. If I am going somewhere stupid daft rocky I will bung a 2.4″ UST on the back as insurance. That is all.

Mavic rims are stronger and better made than Stan’s, but currently Stan’s have the better designs for tubeless and the big tyres we are running these days. Until Mavic join the 21’st century with their rim only options Stan’s (and especially for the me the Flow) rims are the benchmark.

I’ve broken a couple of Flow’s, but I think it worth putting up with that risk for reduced weight and the better tyre profile that the rim gives over the skinny Mavic offerings. I’m with Northwave about the eyelets… I’ve usually managed to destroy something else when I spot a cracked eyelet!!!

PS. For DH things are possibly different but who cares what the moto-cross-wanabies think anyway 😉

The OP did good.

I always try to be non confrontational, even when being lectured and poked at by idiots. “Make sure you have a nice day now”.

Worst I have had was when a big chap swung a rucksack into my path a few years ago. As I was heading down a fantastic techy rocky doonhall I spotted fat bloke and wife coming up all red faced and pechin, my “ar**hole radar” picked up his body language so I was on alert. Where he was going to be when I passed was lovely and wide so I went for it moving as far to the side as I could… needless to say he sticks absolutely to the centre of the path, I had room but just as I am along-side he twists violently so that his rucksack skiffs my handlebars. All my effort went into staying on the bike but I did manage to shout a warning to the rider behind who had seen what happened. Next up I approach the Mrs, as I slowed I took one hand of the bars and made the “wtf” gesture, to which she silently mouthed “sorry”… so I didn’t stop or make a big deal, she had more than enough to worry about dealing with a c*nt like that all day every day.
The rider behind me having seen what had happened took to the heather and gave the guy a wide berth and some verbal which me and angry blokes Mrs heard. As me and the other rider discussed later the best policy is to stay clear of nutters, nothing to be gained from confrontation, especially when any injury is helicopter time.
Had he actually taken me out it would have been different but as it was I was happy leave it having learned a few things. Believe the “ar**hole radar”, if they look like nutters and are holding a line stear well clear. I don’t like going off path into the heather but in this case I should have…
I look back and think what could I have done different and the answer is nothing… if your up in the fantastic mountains and having that bad a day that your willing to assault strangers then there really is no hope for you… is it worth telling the nutter he is a nutter at the risk of ruining your own precious day? Nah, just smile and wave boys, smile and wave.

lalala… I’m not listening… lalala

I saved over a lb… went from Race Face Diabolus double and bash to a Jones’d 960 XTR… in fact I saved over 12lb going from a heavy weight beast to lightweight rocket ship 😉

I was a bit of sceptic as to if 1×9 would work for where I ride, but with a far lighter bike and a bit more grunting I’ve yet to see a downside. I hate front mechs offroad… HammerSchmizzle, SS, or 1×9 🙄

Arch or Flow on the lightest hubs you can find, i.e. FRM/American-Classic/DT/Tune, built up with with DT Revolution spokes and Alloy Nipples would easily come in under 1700g.

Rev spokes and alloy nipples I’ve found to be okay for a few years of life, you could go brass rear or both for increased durability. In my experience once you bend a wheel like this it needs a full rebuild,

A new way to skin a cat?

Nothing much new from me this year… it’s been a bit sh!t for various reasons.

Not UK but very awesome big mountain.

I’ve only ever played with one CK hub and it was very smooth. I’ve found Hope hubs to invariably feel sticky or clunky when in the hand… but you never feel it on the bike.

Whether it’s worth it is up to you.

PS – the smoothest feeling hubs in the hand are almost always XTR!

PPS. I use Hope BTW.

I went to get my Berties re-heeled and ended up buying some Joseph Cheaney as they fit beautifully. They have a big chunky sole for the upcoming snow and wet season walk to work

Evening bump.

Whisky & gin are not a good combination… thank’s Lloyd Cole

I’d say 5.6lbs is light, my Balfa Minuteman steel frame is 7lbs… and it cracked 😥

Replaced with an Alloy Mmmbop at under 4lbs… clocks ticking on that one then 8)

Napster now works as a subscription service. £15 a month but you never own the music so when you unsubscribe you lose it all.

I’m not interested in illegal download options.

Is spotify not like itunes in that it’s pretty much all mainsteam stuff?

I have heard that Napster has much more of the odd stuff which I like… but I’d like evidence or experience before I commit to a new music player. I guess I could do the free trial and make up my own mind

That is a bike of beauty, enjoy 😉

I bought some Bertie Braxton earlier in the year and I like them. Not the same quality as the above mentioned items but also not the same price (they are made in India).

Not sure about the leather sole being very robust long term and I already need the heel replaced… I’ll see what a cobbler thinks. For the next 4 months I need a winter shoe/boot with more grip and some warmth anyway so the Berties will be on light duties only.

I love the look of Brogies so I’m tempted to “invest” in some of the above mentioned ones with a more robust sole… hmmm, I do like the Trickers with Vibram 🙄

See that really crappy bit of trail at the bottom of the roots that your trying to avoid… that’s where your going to end up so just hit that bit as hard and fast as you can.

or

See that really crappy bit of trail at the bottom of the roots that your trying to avoid… that’s where your going to end up so try and get your front wheel past the roots and expect your back wheel to end up in the horrible bit, if it does end up down there you were expecting it, but if you sail on past you’ve won.

There is a 20ft cliff drop which I used to ride regularly when I was riding well. Two years ago the forestry removed all our other jumps and drops which were the warm up for the cliff… now it’s damn near impossible to know if your riding well enough to launch it… and for that reason I don’t 😳 , but I know I could and it really bugs me 👿

noooooooo, that could have gone horribly wrong

I took them out myself after three weeks… I just wish I had done after one week 😆

Love my Mmmbop, suspect with my reputation I would destroy a Pace…
Mmmbop is ugly, top tube is too high, it looks like an xc bike… But by heck it rides well.

Fashion or function?

The 2.4 is too big and floaty but I like the 2.2.

Out of interest how often do you see people wearing kilts in Scotland? Is there anywhere, where the kilt is preferred to trousers? Would people wear one to an interview or are they just for weddings?

Any excuse is good enough. Birthday meal at a restaurant, corporate function, and some people do wear them for work. I have a Tweed kilt I use for less formal events.

trail-rat – I bought mine at the place on School Hill, by the time you’ve hunted around and travelled half the country any saving will be gone on petrol. Go in to the shops in Aberdeen and buy from the one that gives you the best service or the product you want.

The only reason to travel to Edinburgh or Glasgow is if you want something a little special like a leather kilt… 🙄

tight-young-lovelies

[/i]

*cough* yes, well, It’s a quote from a friend *cough*

I wish I had taken my own stitches out earlier as my nutter friend had suggested… with the stitches removed the pain went away really quickly.

Never my biking mojo 😛

But somehow I lost my skiing mojo 😥

I liked that the Hub was ramshackle and basic, it was all that was required and was built out of love for biking. Sitting outside in the sun enjoying the after biking feeling… oh the cake! Over the years it could/should have been improved but why would you when you knew it was going to be moved eventually?

I wish Emma, Tracey and all the “tight-young-lovelies” I have feasted my eye’s on over the years good luck. I appreciate what they brought to the area and I hope to hear they are back in business elsewhere (and if I can I will visit… oh the cake 8) ).

Thank you for supplying further evidence to support my theory that tall people should not be allowed to ride bikes because they always manage to make them look sh!t.

😉

I’m currently hugely impressed with my Ragley Mmmbop. I bought it thinking “meh”. I needed something in a hurry after selling a Whyte 19 I was not getting on with anymore.
I’d been wanting to try the Ragley geometry for a while but was unsure of which size – I think the 17″ but they have only just started making them. My reasons for the Mmmbop are that they can be bought very cheap, are very light for what they are, the 31.6mm seatpost fits my Reverb, and the 1.5 Headtube would fit my big forks (which I’ve not fitted). Lots of flexibility for me.
I bought the 18″ which is an ungainly looking thing with a high top tube which my knees hit sometimes, but I can live with that for how it rides.
I’ve built it up strong but light and at 25lbs it’s close to what my last XC race bike was… but oh so much more capable. I’ve got U-turn Revelation forks on and it rides best with them set at 135mm.
It does techy climbs brilliantly and descends with confidence way beyond what such a lightweight bike should.
Shame it looks like sh!te.