http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/voodoo-wazoo-yep

There is one on ebay for £500 if you don’t want to wait 6 months+!

Bowls or pans of boiling water work, for some reason they like to jump into them.

You sound like you have it all in hand now, before you know it, you’ll be like me trawling ebay for broken stuff to buy and fix!
I got a pretty good nick, P/X Dirty Harry 29er frame for £60 at the beginning of the year because it had a light crack in the seat stay 🙂

Post up some pictures, its always interesting (for me anyway!) to see the before,during and after pics 🙂

Oh, if you flick the carbon with your finger, thats one way to hear how thick the carbon is and you’ll find, the centre of the top tube is usually very thin as its not a high load point, but its still strong enough to sit on.

Most phones are not that accurate compared to a proper gps device, although some will say different.
I did a comparison test today, both were pretty much similar on most segments, but the phone was sometimes quite a few seconds faster on some and then nearly half a min slower on others!
The phone also managed to miss some segs too.

If you don’t need maps, just get a small Garmin or Bryton device. They can be had quite cheap second hand on ebay.

Plus, phones can be useful in emergencys, but not if the battery is nearly flat from running strava!

As others have said, its a not so great, but a really quick way to loose some weight, so try and look at that as an upside, unless you’re underweight already!

My advise, and what I do when I get food poisoning, get lots of cola or any type of nasty acidic drink and keeping drinking it regularly.
The acid in it can help quickly kill the bug, and if/when you do throw up, its a nicer flavour than stomach acid!

A few years ago, I read about a cyclist who travelled all round the world and always ate the local food, but he never got food poisoning! He put it down to having a can of Coke every day!

cookeaa, the reason I said to only use UD for aesthetics was because flanagaj’s frame has a UD finish, so it would match.
That’s why I also said you can use what ever you want as long as its strong enough for the repair.

Manufacturers know which angle to lay the cloth (the general public usually don’t), that’s why if it were me, I would just use the cloth which gives the most room for error/strength from ever direction. Personally, I would use plain weave for the repair and then a layer on top to match the finish of the bike or whatever you’re repairing.

Also, a carbon repair is (if done correctly) stronger than the area its replacing, so it will NOT be weaker.

You can use whatever you want, as long as its strong enough for the repair.
You only need to use UD for aesthetics, if you’re not that bothered, then no need to buy any.

They have tried similar around my way, and it works really well.
The road has now got white lines on either side of the road for the cycle lane about 1mtr out from the curb, meaning that vehicles drive down the centre of the road.
I dont use it much and it isn’t that busy when I do, but vehicles do give more room when passing and Im sure they go a bit slower when they think they may come head on with another vehicle and then have to more over.

Keep them in the fridge at 40-50% charge when you’re not using them for a long time.

If you want a reliable battery pack, get one of those cases that take 4 batteries, that way you can buy and use quality batteries, and them take them out and charge them separately which is safer.
Or, you could contact Smudge (mtb batteries) and see what he has on offer.

Do NOT use ceramic pads!

Okay, expensive lesson learned about pads and rotors. I still think there should be some sort of warning on the site about using hard pads with certain rotors though, not everyone is an expert.
Even in the Ashima manual, it does not mention pads which you shouldn’t use, just what pads it recommends.

thestabiliser – Member

Gone through rotors in <700 mostly road miles? Do you live on the Col Du Tourmalet?

No, read again.
The rotors have done around 3000 problem free miles, its only the last 621 miles with the ceramic pads which have destroyed them.

This is what it says on the site where I got the pads, no mention of rotor design at all;

Harder than ordinary pads. This is the highest density, hardest, ceramic compound for performance and longer lifetime. These organic disc brake pads contain a high amount of ceramic fiber, which insulate the brake system from friction heat up to 400oC.

Advantages: Better performing and longer lasting than medium pads
Details
Upgrade on original fitted pads
DIN 79100 Standard Approved
Organic Compound contains no metal material
Reduces damage to rotor
Carbonized compound reduces brake fading
Ceramic Fiber insulates brake system from friction heat

Im not sure if I made it clear enough.
I bought the bike new about 8 months ago, swapped the original discs for these about a month latter.
The original pads lasted (Avid DB-3) around 900-1000 miles and were then replaced with sintered pads.
I was always aware of how light the discs were, thats why I kept an eye on them for the first few months of using them and there were no issues whatsoever, and both the factory pads and the sintered pads wore evenly/flat.
Its just since I put these pads in 6 weeks ago, that is when the uneven wear has started, so the disc were 100% fine before I used these pads.

They’re light weight Ashima rotors and I have been using these on my 29er for years without any issues, its only since trying these new pads that has caused the problem.

I made sure to check the website selling the pads, and there was nothing to mention not using them with specific discs.

The thread title is sadly very true!
Kendall Jones was last years outrage, and it appears now that she a minor celebrity going by her Facebook page![/url]
She now has her own clothing line, does radio interviews and does signings etc..

Replace, unless you have the skill to do it yourself.
Aldi were/are doing Garmin 200 for £40-£50, or you could just get a second hand gps.

I was looking at that before I got my OOF.
Im not sure if I believe the weight and the screw on block put me right off because of the limited/poor choice of gearing.

At least with the Wiggle bike, you can easily upgrade small parts without having to buy bigger things like wheels if you need better gearing.

Second hand Fattys are not much more and well worth the wee bit extra.

Knee pain is usually associated with cleat placement.

I know pain in the front of the knee usually means your saddle is too low, at the back of the knee, usually means the saddle is too high.
I cant remember which is which, but inside/outside knee pain is usually related to the toe in/toe out position of your feet.

When standing normally, my feet are toe out, so thats how I set up my cleats. If you look at Peter Sagan, you will see he rides with toe in, and its pretty obvious when you look at him.

If you stand normally, which way do your feet point?

It could be other things, but cleat placement is one of the most important.
When you’re clipped in, try and make sure your shoes are as close to the cranks as possible, without rubbing, obviously.

These ones.
They work great for me, I can walk about in shorts and short sleeve t-shirt, no probs.
And no, it doesn’t drown them!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Felt-Fat-bike-Double-Double-70-Charcoal-Red-M-2015-/261961287088?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cfe1c05b0

Got mine in December, never been off it since, I even use it to give the roadies a laugh on the chaingangs.
It has full length mud guards and a rack, and has just passed 3000 miles.
Best thing I have bought in years.
I only use my 29er or road bike these days to see if I can get any koms from the fitness that using the Fatty all the time gives me, and Ive only used both about half a dozens time each this year, with plenty of koms.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/is-fat-just-for-christmas

How can you say its not the tinnitus?
That’s what tinnitus is, a background noise that only you can hear all the time.

A disc wheel should be the last thing to buy.
Do you have a skin suit?
Do you have an aero helmet?
Do you have overshoes?
Do you have an aero front wheel?

A proper TT frame/bike will give you a lot more benefit than a disc ever will and a second hand one can be had for a lot less than a disc wheel.
Its the front end which hits the wind first, and that is where you should start first when thinking of upgrading.

The same reason the riders had no clue why they were stopped yesterday, they’re probably to focused on their own plan, plus I guess its not very sporting and they may very well do the same to them if you have a mechanical.
That’s not to say it hasn’t happened in the past though.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/felt-double-double-70-a-947758.html

As others have said, seem 100% legit. If they’re knock offs they have gone to a lot of trouble – e.g. sticker on the box for the euro importer etc.

You’ll be surprised how far the fakers/Chinese go these days.
I report a lot of fakes on ebay, and quite a few have boxes, receipts and all paperwork that genuine ones come with, but they usually always screw up on small details which make them pretty obviously fake if you know what to look for.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Hiking-JAWBONE-Sports-Sunglasses-Polarized-Sunglasses-16COLORS-Frame-Available-Earsocks-Blue-IridiumLens-SOG008/108582_533380600.html
The cheap and nasty hard case is usually the most obvious one.

If anyone bought Jawbones and want my opinion on them, just let me know.

Well, I took it to a bike shop and they replaced the bearings, so it seems okay now.
The only thing, after taking the cassette off, the freehub has massive gouges out it from the cogs, which are so bad it will likely be needing replaced before these bearings go.
There were also gouges out it inside where the pawls are, down to really crap sealing I guess.

I have read that some people have tried to put a steel pin on the splines to help save the alloy from any more damage, like AC/Novatech do.
I think that’ll be my next project as the 13t will soon be spinning freely around the hub if I don’t fix it soon!

I have the newer QR with the convertible axles.

I got my OO Fatty in December and the 1031 that came with that was too stretched to replace after about 1000 miles, and now, it is still going at nearly 2900 miles.
Gear changes are a bit sloppy, but nothing is slipping yet.
I don’t go easy on either, its my everyday bike and it also gets used for hard fast chaingangs.
My guess is that the extreme angles of chain line in single ring set ups don’t help.
I never use bottom 2 gears that would cause a bad chain line.

I have only broken one chain in the last 20 years, and that was because I kept pedalling when the chain jammed while shifting.

You should check and see if you have any jaggy metal sticking out on your chainring/cassette which may cause wear.

You should never ever be in that gear anyway, no wonder its complaining!
I always leave the top 2 for small chainring only and the same goes for the other end too.

Is your wheel sitting straight?
Is the chainset sitting further out than the old one?

Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I was close to buying their freehub, but I just thought that 7 months use with a brand new bike is just not right.
The thing that gets me, is that I am still on the original chain/cassette, if anything, I would expect to replace them waaaaaaaay before a freehub or the bearings in it!

Despite a number of idiots on here, when people come asking for help, they can really get it.
The subject matter will rarely put people of helping/replying, but not being really clear in what you’re asking, can. And, I guess not watching the program that is mentioned could stop people too.

Mine come up at 52mm on Crests.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Picture-Photo-40kg-Plasterboard-Wall-Fixings-x-6-/251450586850?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Hmmmm, at least you’ll have no problem getting a full 6p refund if they turn up faulty!

If it was suicide before, you’d think he would have no problem finishing it off instead of hiding for years with the mess it left him with!

The batteries that come with that light are only good for the bucket, so if you can get the light cheaper without batteries, then get that one.
Also, the lumens will be miles of, at best you’ll get around 2500-3000, so it’ll still be stupidly bright, just not fake Chinese lumens bright.

Full stage to those who missed it.

If you don’t mind wearing team shorts, then there are loads of good bargains about and I have found that the quality of the shorts & padding are very good.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=&LH_PrefLoc=3&_sop=15&Style=Bib%2520Shorts&_dcat=177853&_osacat=177853&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R1.TR3.TRC1.A0.H0.Xteam+bib.TRS0&_nkw=team+bib+shorts&_sacat=177853

As others have said, Italians in the Giro are allowed to get away with a lot more than non Italians.
Its not jumping forward, go to 6:13

While Cav was pissed off with being deliberately blocked twice (you’re not allowed to move from your line in a sprint), he said the main issue was if the roles were reversed and he was doing the blocking, he would’ve been relegated.