I use a road bike triple!
52.42.32 x 11.32

It makes some of the steeper climbs i do quite hard, but fine other than that.
I also use my mtb for chaingangs, hence the need for the 52×11

Only issue i had, was that i just used the same BB and the inner ring carved a small groove out off the chain stay.

When using the 44×11 on changangs, i would be at my max around 34mph, are you maybe just needing to practise spinning more?

Save your money 🙂

I doubt you’ll get many ideas from my bike, but this is my tourer, still to be toured on though, hopefully next year!

Johnny Panic

Read this.
They’re just using the old boxes.

Is anyone still having issues with it freezing all the time?
I get about 10-15mins use before it freezes for around 1 min!
FF7

Im using it as an under shirt and its very nice, very warm too, it wouldn’t be a good cold warm top on its own, but i guess that all depends on how cold you mean!
A small would be the right size for you, its nice tight fit, im thinking of getting another one.

I got a poor wee ratty a few years ago!

GW

Some battery’s are good for high power (quick drain appliances) flashlights and some are not.
I have those UF battery’s and when i compare them with Blue TF battery’s in my XM-L flashlights this is the current draw on high ~
UF = 1.6amps
TF = 2.6amps

What can happen also, is that the UF battery’s heat up quicker due to the internal resistance, which reduces lifespan. They are still usable though.

This is the only mount i buy/sell for bar mounting, you can also get them on ebay for £1 each.

To make the battery snugglier in the tube, i just use a post-it, trim a bit of the end and it fits perfect.Just curl it up and make the sticky bit go against the tube.
Always make sure the switch and the pill are tight as that’s the other reasons why they change modes while going over bumps.
By the way, UltraFire batterys tend to have really high internal resistance, compared to Blue TrustFires (nonprotected, always use in single cell lights) they have around 40% more resistance!

Rich

If DX just offer compensation for your dead charger, you could contact Smudge and get a decent one from him.
(cyclist)

All grown up!!

Needed a seat post with lots of lay back and found this FSA on CRC for £30 reduced from £110, but in a really stupid size, 29.4!!
Tried to find anyone that had a 29.4-31.4 shim, but i couldn’t find one, so my back up plan was to just give it a carbon wrap to bring it up those extra few mm.
Bit of a pain to sand it down to level it all at 31.4, but it now works fine 🙂

2-3 weeks if it got sent by China Post.
Does the tracking number say it has left the post office yet?

Yeah, some can be quite hard!

It all sounds good.
It sounds like the charger is working fine and its just the leds that are not working properly.
When you put battery/s in that is around 3.5v it should take 3-4hrs to charge, just have a check after that time and don’t bother waiting for the leds to change to green.

No probs.
If you can’t get a MM, just copy the picture from the thread i linked too, that’s what i did as i was a bit fed up taking pics of faulty chargers!
You can see the DX Return Policy in my sig in that thread if you wanted to glance over it.

FunkyDunc, i got my faulty replacement 6 a couple of weeks ago.
These chargers are generally very reliable, but as with most things, sometimes they make a faulty batch.
These are the only ones i buy and i have probably bought close to 300 over the years with very few faulty.
See if you can borrow a MM to check and take a picture to show DX, as they will need a picture so they can send a replacement, you probably wont even need to send it back because it’ll be to expensive.

Those chargers will take 3-4 hours to charge a battery @500mA.

Yep, that’s the faulty batch!!
As i said, i have got 11 to send back, 6 off which were replacements for previous faulty ones i got!
Faulty thread.
I got Janmee to look into it and he has now said the issue has been fixed by the supplier.
If you cant wait for a replacement, you can get the same one on ebay for about £10.

What charger is it?
You should get a Multi-meter and test the voltage coming out of it, as it could be faulty.
I am about to send back 11 faulty chargers!!

cr500dom, maybe he sold them to someone else!!

Without possibly getting excited too soon, when did he send them and when did you email?

What about a Chinarello?
I got a plain black one from ebay last month for £255 delivered, but im now also considering getting a fully painted one for around £300-£350 delivered, like this ~

Lots of chat over here about them, this is the latest of 5 full threads about them. Bargins to be had!

Well….i think they could’ve said they would, but i really doubt they would pay probably more than the frame is worth to send it back!
This is what they said ~ we will take to factory test, then will full refund to you (add the return shipping charge)

It only cost £210 for f&f + £45 postage.

GreatKeen seems like the place to buy if you’re still wanting one.
Loads of people have bought one, and i can still recommend them even with the issue i have had.
I don’t know if you’ve seem these threads, but this is the latest off 5 Chinese frame threads!

I bought a Chinarello frame & fork about a month ago and after finally having all the bits to build it up last week, i went out for about 30mins and when i got back i noticed a 20mm crack in the head tube!!!
So, obviously now the seller wants it back before i get the refund/replacement, which a can understand, but i really doubt they would cover that cost for postage, and im not prepared to share the cost, due to already paying £45 the first time for shipping.

Im thinking i might be better off just having a go at fixing it myself with carbon repair kit!

Update on how they got caught.

Nope, link not stolen!

Yep, keep them at about 50% charge and in the fridge, NOT freezer.
Li-ion don’t like heat, if you keep them lying around your living room at 20c, that will reduce their life considerably.
I added this on DX.

I had a 1994 Transit camper for 4 years, and it was fine.
You shouldn’t really have any trouble finding somewhere to fill up, i used my local Flo Gas, cheaper than garages.

When i first got it, i got maps of the UK and there were over 1100 stations on it, i would imagine there would be a fair bit more now.

You’ve not really got anything to lose.
If you don’t like the lpg, just use petrol!

Why do you think you need around 1000 lumen’s??

If the beam angles are correct, then 500-600 would be more than enough.
Remember, its not always the more the better.

I have (sell) a couple of wee adjustable beam (zoom) lights that are around 150 lumen’s each, and because you can get the beam angle spot on, one on the bar and one on the helmet would be enough for most riding.
Its all about mine is bigger than yours in anything over 700 lumen’s in my opinion!

Having said that, there is nothing wrong with having silly bright lights, but if you’re looking for longer runtimes, then you could easily get by on less output.

DG
If you’ve never been before, i would recommend just watching the first one and then racing the next/rest, if you’ve never done a crit before.
It lets you see what its all about/where to position yourself/how to corner etc…
I’ll be there as usual doing the gear checking/helping out, so i can give advise if you want it.
ERC info page,not yet updated for 2011.

You’re usually allowed to tag on to the back of a group if you get lapped, so long as you dont interfere if those other riders are racing for positions.

The first race usually starts around 6.30, but you can turn up an hour before that if you want and have a play around the course.
Wear/bring warm clothes if you’re going to be standing about watching.

I was involved in a discussion/bs about the battery packs on the DX forums.

I cant find the updated link, but Geo recalled over 20,000 packs because TWO were faulty!!

Vondally, maybe it was Jens Voigt in that gorilla suit too!

For the price they charge, i’d expect nothing less!

smudge

bike radar

I got attacked by a suicidal rat last winter!

16hr charge time!!! I thought times like that disappeared with Halogen & HID bike lights!

You should talk to Smudge about getting a faster charger.

Okay, you dont seem to have much choice then, just make sure you’re charging them away from flammable stuff, like carpets/curtains etc…

I use/sell P7/flashlights, so i have a lot of loose batterys, and i keep them all in the fridge, most are at about 50% charge, with a couple at full charge ready to go if i need them.

If you have a look at the storage temp in the link i gave you, you lose a surprising amount of capacity just storing them at room temp in a year!

Its up to you guys what you do, but this is just stuff ive learned over the years of dealing with them.

No point contacting DX, all they’ll tell you to do is ask elsewhere for help as they wont know.

Does the light actually work?
Are you able to test the voltage off the pack?
It could just be a faulty led!

Oh, dont run down Li-ion.

Okay guys, you really need to learn how to look after your batterys!

Li-ions dont like heat, so that means DONT leave them lying around at room temp, and one thing you should never do, is leave them charging unattended over night. It doesn’t matter how good your charger or batterys are, is just not advisable.

Looking after Li-ion.

That bike is never a 49cm! Looks more like 56-60cm, so more suitable for people over 6 foot.

Im 5.9 and use a small frame slopping top tube (Old model ~ ONCE) Giant for my road and TT bikes.
I bought the TT frame from my mate who is around 5.10 and he used that for years with a lot of success.
I dont have my TT bike at the moment, but the road bike BB-ST=49cm and ST-HT=52cm (Measured straight), and i think they’re about the same.

The smaller the frame, the lighter and stiffer it will be.
You want to be looking for a flat back while in the TT position with as little frontal area as possible.

They have a forum where you can check out whats happening you know.