Really? I thought it was probably a bit silly, but seeing as I was on STW, I thought “why not?”

Glad you liked it.

I think it’s quite admirable, being able to keep your chin up during these difficult times. Good on you AXS, keep smiling.

Bike? There was a bike?

All of the colour matching, new grips/bars etc would be very low on my priorities list. Mine would be this:

Dropper
Tubeless/tyres
Fork

…..then a distant priority after that.
Brakes
Trick/lighter wheels
Pedals
Grips
Bar/stem.

Yeah, I’d echo @oakleymeppets comments.

The spring has to hold up the weight of the object to resist hard bottoming, but effectively use all the travel. The HBO circuit allows a ‘softer’ spring rate in the first 80% of the travel, as the last 20% ish is protected with HBO ramp up.

I’m running a softer spring in my lyric with a Smashpot, as I can get more traction and compliance that way, running more in the middle of the travel, without harsh bottoming from the fork.

Works a treat.
Won’t make me an Enduro or DH star, but notable difference when I’m lazily smashing rocks or landings.

Yeah, bearing in upside down I’d say was the likely culprit.

I am running a TTX coil on my stumpy, and a CCDB coil on my enduro.

It’s quite hard to rate then, as the stumpy is 135mm and the enduro 180mm.

They’ve both been very reliable (3 and 4 years) and perform well.

If they were the same ish price, I’d get the CCDB mainly for the independent adjustment of all 4 damping circuits.

As a buffer, this is quite useful to have.

I normally run shorty front and back in the winter. However, in recent slop ive tried a WTB verdict Wet on a spare front wheel i have. Its mad grippy in the real deep treacle mud we get around here, but in ANYTHING harder, it’s a squirmy liability.

So, i just select a front for the level of “somme’ out there, whilst running a 2.5 shorty on the back all the time.

Just to confirm then a shimano 11s mech would do OK with a 10s shifter and cassette?

I can confirm this. Worked fine when i had 10 speed drivetrains on my bikes. I used the 11s mech to get the range for larger casettes.

@jam-Bo

jam-bo
Full Member
15yrs later and I’m still annoyed about my original jack flash getting stolen.

you can always just buy my new one!

MTB like a BMX, BMX like an MTB

@DrP
Yes, i am indeed a Brightonian.
2 rides old, matt black anodised… £100 collected. (At a responsible social distance of course)

PM me if you’re interested.

@TheBrick
The 25th anniversary one. Currently built with 26″ wheels and a 120mm fork.

image here.
this one

The planet-x Jack flash frame is just what you’re looking for I’d say.

I know that, because I have recently bought one. In black, disc frame.

Now, it’s actually turned out to be NOT what I was looking for. So I’m just about to sell mine! 2 pumptrack rides use, mint condition.

Topeak Defender M1/M2 is very adjustable, and pretty tough. Clamps onto all 3 of my bikes…. adjusts to being attached to either frame, or seatpost.

Some kind of 11 speed- deore/sunrace combo would work well, get great range and be pretty cheap?

Remember also, 11 speed Shimano rear mech works fine with 10s shifter/cassette and give you the right reach to run a larger sunrace cassette.

I use Bamboo clothing (as vanillas link above) for most things I wear. Running, snowboarding, work, walking.

It’s fab stuff. Cheap, comfy, sustainable. With thumb loops in some items too.

Sounds like the spring tapping the inside of the stanchion when under load.

Did you wrap it in shrink wrap?
Might need another layer possibly?

Maybe, but a 40mm reduction at the front is not gonna make that much difference too the BB. Maybe lower it by about 20mm max.

In the end, i just got a DMR rhythm and will see if that rides a little more to my liking.
With the adjustable drop-outs, i will be able to sneak in a 27.5 wheel with skinnier tyres on for some light trails, and for one of my boys to ride.

Exactly, which is the reason for trying to find a hardtail frame with as low a stand over as possible, but long enough to to ride for short trail rides.

The fork I have is 120mm which is what the Planet-x is supposed to have.

It’s a very first world problem I have of course, so many thanks for all the replies. I’m sure something will come up which is the right level of compromise.

trail riding and pump track/jump are two totally different disciplines. You’ll compromise the bike by trying to do both.

I do appreciate this, but can only have one bike for both duties. So compromises must be made.

Eta.. your current frame has a 30mm bb drop or a height of around 310mm. How much lower do you want?

I don’t have the bike in front of me to measure, but I’m pretty certain this is not the case. From memory, the BB sits about 20 mmm (ish) higher than the rear axle. So more like 350mm high. I’d prefer it quite a bit lower than that

HighJack

Now, easy everyone. I’m just asking about a bike. It’s not a ‘one bike fits all’ type of question or answer.

Each to his own etc:

I’m not looking for the perfect bike, just the perfect one for me and my needs.

That NS surge evo looks good actually. Pretty much what I was after. Not a fan of steel bikes, but would do fine for a pump/jump bike.

The Dartmoor Hornet is designed to have about 150/60mm travel fork. Bit long for my needs.

I’m currently using a 120mm fork

@rdoades
Is that from experience of this frame?
Never looked at these, but I’ll check em out now.

Yeah, the pumptrack version will have 26” wheels, it’s just useful to be able to run 27.5 trail wheels too, as it makes it more versatile.

Same with gears, makes it more versatile.

I currently have a Planet-x Jack flash… the new ones they just released. BB is comically high, if I want to use it as a trail frame. I can manual pretty well anyway, so don’t need a high BB particularly.

As a 115kg thrasher, I had to learn to build my own wheels many years ago. Most factory built wheels just didn’t last.

I now have (cheaper Chinese) carbon rims on my wheels, laced to hope hubs. It’s been years since I bent or dinged a rum.

I’ve had a flowmk3 rim fail catastrophically before, but I think it was a bit of a freak issue.

Bottom line is, the build is just as important as the rim strength.

Dog owners are like parents. They think their little pooch is not being a problem to anyone, when in fact it’s making other people have to stop, move, slow down and in many cases make people fearful that they might get bitten.

I’d say that dog owners have the same blind spots as parents do.

The ratio of responsible dog owners, to inconsiderate ****, is about 80-20. (Nowhere near the 99% mentioned earlier)
But I’m sure if I asked 100 dog owners about their dog, they’d say ‘it’s very well trained and has never chased a cyclist’

if it’s not on a lead you shouldn’t have it anywhere near children, cyclists, livestock. No matter how deluded you are.

Both me and one of my children have been bitten by a dog while riding our bikes. Dogs that did not respond to their owners at all.

35psi? Really? That’s a very hard tyre.
I’m 110kgs and only run 25ish in 2.5 EXO+ tyres. I can’t remember that last time I pinch flatted, or even dinged a run.

I do try to take off quite often too…..

EXO+ and rimpact is a pretty good compromise. That’s what I run in all
My bikes that will need pedalling up at some point.

The shoe dryer thing linked by @fathomer
Does the job very well.

I have just bought one of the PLanet=x jack flash (disc) frames…. it works well for me @ 5’11″… would easily suit someone up to 6-3″/4″ .

It’s running a 120mm fork, with 26″ wheels. It’s a great bike for the pump track @ £100

…. i also have the Ohlins on my Stumpy, which is great too. Not quite as adjustable, but great for the shorter travel bike.

Cane Creek Double barrel coil on my enduro.
4 damping circuits, which means more control for tuning my considerable bulk.

Been on my 2016 Enduro for long enough to have hammered it. It’s been reliable and very plush.

I replaced my Yari stock damper with a YariUp aftermarket damper. Much better.

Paired with a coil spring on the other side, it’s a great fork now.

Yeah, 3 ish miles on a flat rear, with rimpact. Fine at slow speed riding home, re-used tyre and rimpact afterwards.

Mtb batteries are a great company to deal with. Their lights are more than enough for most people’s needs and they’re half the price of Exposure.

I can afford Exposure lights (and indeed have bought some) but always use my luminators instead.

Dianese trail skins 2, sent ’em back. After 1 slight tumble the honeycomb bit came away from the shell. Not strong enough for general use, unless you’re happy with a disposable pad.

Does it have some kind of washer/flip chip type thing in there?
Could be an issue with that?

But, why is it casing a problem?

I just run 2x 5mm cheap spacers on the axle of my old non-boost hub (with a re-dish) to make it boost.
As long as you’re careful not to lose them when you take the wheels out… jobs-a-good’un.

the 29er Selcof forks i have from Planet-X are pretty good.

120mm corrected
tapered
boost
15mm thru axle

£200