Makes sense, cheers for quick replies.

I’ve just got a pair of 29er SID XX (not world cup ones) and before I took delivery had read various threads about the XLoc needing bleeding.

I tested them last night and if I have the gate adjuster turned all the way to + then the only way I can unlock the forks is to hold the XLoc button right in with my thumb, as soon as I release the forks lock even though the XLoc button is still depressed.

Adjusting the gate control towards – sorts this out and the forks then operate correctly even after I let go of the button.

So I’m guessing mine need a bleed too, so seems like a common ‘issue’

ok, sounds like make something might be the preferred option, cheers for the motivation :D

thanks for the heads-up longmover

Does no one have one?

Thanks for putting my mind at rest chaps. :D

Cheers Creamegg :lol:

if you are not a Prima donna and concerned what colour your bolts etc are then I have tried several mudguards and the best to date is the Crud Fast Fender.

Yes it looks a bit wannabe motocross-er but it does the job.

Ok so there is a sale on at the moment. I just didn’t want to order something and get an email tomorrow with a discount code.

I tried too :-(

Anyone?

Thanks for heads up on other sites, and sorry about my lack of area knowledge, I kinda just assumed it was Wiltshire as it seemed close.

See my previous post

Perfect 1 x 10 setup?

Replace TALAS innards with FLOAT ones, I did this on mine and it’s much better on the small bump stuff now.

just to add my 2pc worth, we had 5 door Focus with one child and now Mondeo estate with two, bonus of Mondeo is bike will go in back with seats flat pretty much fully built :-)

OK, how far is it safe to extend the cage on a rear mech, any photos would be helpful?

Yes, apparently the apocalypse is arriving in the form of a super massive storm. This is due to hit the South West Sunday evening and could be the worst storm for 30 years. I would imagine that most people will be on their farewell rides. Me, im going to be stock taking the masses of tinned food and candles my wife has stock piled today.

I have one of these which I take with me when riding,

Not bragging or such like, just think it’s a simple and effective bit of kit.

If you want to search for one, it’s a Feedback Sports Rakk

I’m abut to do the same thing, albeit with a XT crankset and was considering using spacers and longer chainring bolts to adjust the chainline, have you considered that?

Also on the subject can someone please tell me what the correct chainline should be? is it the middle of the cassette?

Sorry if I wasn’t clear, I’m referring to the bearing by itself, out of the headset.

cheers for the replies, do you think boots would be OK with me taking the rear triangle in to a store to compare nail polish shades?

POC joint VPD I forget I’m even wearing them

one of these Clicky[/url]

and one of these Clicky[/url]

:D

Last year I did the PDS and spend a week in Morzine running a dual ply 2.5 minion slow reezay on the front and a dual ply 2.1 high roller super tacky on the back.

had some heavy hits and neither had any problems at all.

oh I ran them both tubeless as well.

I’d be surprised if you could, I’ve had mine to bits a couple of times and the talas unit is pretty much enclosed, even stripped down (from the images on the fox website) I couldn’t see where you would put a space.

cheers everyone buddy beacon looks like a winner

grilla, I’d never used that, I’ll take a look thanks

Ok, thanks for the info, next question is which way round should it be installed, with the concave side pointing into the stanchion so the negative spring sits inside the cup or pointing out of stanchion so the negative spring sits on the outside ‘base’ of the cup?

If that’s makes sense.

Put a length of nylon webbing though the silicon case and tie it to a brake gear cable, if you a barreling down a rough trail and the garmin becomes dislodged, the strap will help save it bouncing away into the forest.
Actually garmin should design their shells with a securing hole for this purpose.

I was thinking about this as I currently use an old eTrex and always fasten it to the bike using the lanyard as I’d had one fall off in the past.

some great tips people, many thanks

Rode the 50k today, and feel totally broken now, probably due to the fact that I haven’t ridden for about 2 months due to work and family commitments.

Time was quite dreadful but having to pedal down hill to keep momentum wasn’t much fun!

My daughter went from a Hotrock to a CNOC 16 and the difference it made to her riding progress was massive.

The Islabike is just in another league from the Specialized.

watsontony, if you are a 6ft busty blonde woman then you might have a deal.

only problem with that is I may end up with two items that I wish were a bit better, rather than one, top of range product?

The case is metal and the AC side is earthed.

I got the impression that the earth tie on the output was to ‘force’ one side of the output to 0v as there are no polarities on the output.

^^^^ WWASWAS had me crying with laughter, funniest thing I’ve read in ages

Andy, this is what I was getting at.

Due to the swing arm it’s pretty much impossible to mount the back plate flush against the frame but I have managed to get the back plate mounted (still after lots of grinding and filing) by using the BB spacer so I have increased the overall BB length by 2.5mm.

How will this mess up the cranks/BB?

cheers for the replies guys

The chain device is a BB mounted one