OEM? Have no problem if the crown race is left on. Like you say, easy to remove…

Just bought a fork from the site. Thanks for the feedback.

Nice one.

Thanks very much.

Yip. Protecting their young. Had one attack me on a tow path – pecked my chain set 🙂

I used to report stuff to the police but after several bad experiences, I no longer bother. Mate of mine was rear ended on his bike, witnesses saw driver using her mobile phone. Police wouldn’t check phone records because his injuries were ‘serious enough’.

People have resorted to commuting with video cams – so they have hard evidence and can publicize it if there is inaction.

There are parts of the area I would never ride in because the driving standards are so poor.

I have an old Defy. Really like it. No problems and have dropped it on stone flags from a height of 6ft and it is fine. Maybe the new one is poorly designed.

See this thread for mounts.

It depends on your tolerance of rough surfaces.

Some people swear by frames with more flex and give – the material is only one factor – geometry/design play a significant role. Suspect that most high quality steel frames will be more compliant than alu.

For more informed advice, I suggest you post on a road cycling forum. Better still, test ride a few bikes before buying.

I always wear mine. My partner’s sister has a friend working at a hospital in head injuries. He is very supportive of bike helmets!

Can hardly believe it when I see people riding without them. Especially on the road.

nickstock – how much did you pay for it at your lbs?

Whole set up seems pretty good for me. Can’t really see anything I want to change in the short term. Amazingly quick bike.

I like my (lumpy) Gore Bike Wear Oxygen Short Finger Gloves.

Don’t know why people where full finger gloves in summer. So much easier to do stuff with fingerless.

Yes, they are pretty wide. Leaving them for the time being.

Looks fast

I have ridden the section from Leeds to Gargrave many times.

You can do it on a CX bike but I would take a hard tail mainly because it will be more comfortable on some of the single track sections.

Sweet

My stead – so far unmodified.

[/url] 29er[/url] by jwmlee[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Will do.

The XTR set I was recommended for my 26er is superb. Massive improvement. Will go with PFTE when they need replacing.

When I replaced the front mech cable the routing through the down tube wasn’t a problem – must be good guides inside the frame. The routing through the bottom bracket was a hassle. I’ve been in touch with Cube to ask how they recommend doing it. They use ‘straws’ to guide the cables. Not sure what they are but Cube are sending me some in the post.

Out on the 29er for the first ‘real ride’. Proper fast. Got two KOMs – one, more than 30 seconds over the next fastest on a steep 5 minute climb. Put everything into it but stuff very surprised a the margin. The guy I beat does 100 mile rides (hitting KOMs on the way) on his road bike.

Also took at KOM from a guy riding a Lapierre Zesty over an undulating technical bit of single track.

Very surprised at how much faster this bike is. My 26er is pretty light and quick but this thing flys!

Tony24 – Suggest setting the brakes up so your index finger sits comfortably into the v of the lever.

Nothing like the competitive spirit to get people to act in irrational (and sometimes rude) ways.

This Strava business sure is fun though!

Sorted out all the little issues and have been out a couple of times. Really like the bike. Quick, smooth and light.

Planning to go afters some KOMs (strava) tonight in my favourite hunting ground. Will be interesting to see if the bike is quicker on the climbs than my Elite HPT which is pretty light and fast too.

plodtv – let us know how you get on with changing the cables. I will go for PFTE coated ones next time. Might even use an XTR set.

I have a blackburn airstick sl carbon which I like very much. Tiny but pushes out plenty of air. Clever design pumps both in and out strokes.

@LoCo – If you an offer a competitive price then I would be interested.

Found them for £399

8)

Yes, windy in Airedale, Yorkshire. Wind on a day like this is a blessing. Keeps you cool 🙂

Yorkshire Dales on my road bike.

I quite like Crank Brothers Split QR seat Collar although the plastic cover broke off pretty soon after installation. Doesn’t affect its function.

I love my Formula RX’s but probably better suited to XC.

What Mountain Bike mag ran a test on brakes some time ago – seem to remember Shimano SLX coming out well. Not particularly light but tough and strong.

Seriously?

And fixing bikes is at least as hard as fixing cars – in fact often harder, fixing a bike quite often requires some real thought, with cars it’s often “remove duff part, bolt on new part”.

Would love to hear what car mechanics would have to say on this!!!

Whats good for the average STWer and what’s good for the majority of cyclists are different things, and once you start making things official you have to consider being inclusive and with the “wrong” (uninformed, unimaginative) people in charge, you end up with wide smooth paths that everyone can ride on, not rocky, fun singletrack.

Agree.

I wonder what British Cycling has to say on the matter.

We need to lobby them to lobby more.

+1 for Ribble. I have one and really like it. Very well made and light.

Alp-X is very light but would probably go for a Gillette in summer.

There is a fair price for these things and in my opinion a lot of overcharging goes on in the bike industry.

Some of the workshop charging looks more like the motor trade. The techs are often paid a pittance.

As a beginner I took my bike into my lbs to sort out shifting problems. Was a simple issue – rear gear cable change. Guess how much they charged? £80 because the technician struggled with routing the internal cable.

Six months later, I attempted to do it myself. Very little experience, no technical ability – it took me less than 30 minutes.

I’ve now bought the tools and do most things myself.

Two jackets in one. Very handy.

I really like the Gore Alp X Zip off jacket. Bit more than your budget. I got mine from Bike-Discount.com

Also Gore Phantom is good – warmer than the above.

In my experience, quality if worth paying for. They work better, look better and last longer so in the long run they end up being cheaper.

b r – YES – and long may this weather last!

However, my 26er is going to be set up for wet weather and mud because I have a lovely brand new 29er for the dry 🙂

njee20 yes, very close to impossible. Couldn’t believe my eyes when I snapped that tyre leaver in two. Done with struggling along with the Dirty Dans. Also having trouble seating them – no matter how high I pump the tubes up, the tyre simply won’t pop into place. They are fantastic when they’re on but can’t be arsed with the hassle.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Chojin- Yes, use Stans recommended technique using the pushing the bead into the centre and working my way round from opposite the valve.

Have noticed on other threads that the 2011 Schwable tyres are much harder. My 2010 Ron/Ralphs go on and off no problem.

PaulD – you mean these? Panaracer Fire Mud Pro Comp Tyre

Have you had them on Stans Crests?

Thanks for the suggestions.

I have managed to get the Dans on a few times but certainly not easy!

Dread to think what it would be like fixing a puncture in the rain and mud. Heard that the more recent Schwalbe tyres are more difficult to get on. Mine are 2011 Dirty Dan Evolution XC Folding.