Looking at the numeric steps on the shifter and the size, the throw on the shifter looks very similiar to the Rohloff.
I think 16 gears for AM use will be spot on, I have to under gear the Rohloff to achieve a fat boy grinder gear for climbs.

I just need to work out how I can buy the Nicolai frame.

Just spent ages looking at the Nicolai version, as an IGH fan this is the most exciting development I’ve seen for ages.

Bryn-Afon

This place was pretty good location, hosts, bike storage and quality breakfast wise, access to town and Marin trails, cost ok sharing but room was a little small for big kit bags.

Nice write up :)

I have some Rudy Project Noyz and Zyon and swop the Rx insert between them.
As some one from optical manufacturering I have played around with a lot of nice technical solutions over the years for biking.
This is the most versatile options in terms of changing the lens colour for different conditions and for allowing the use of a broad range of prescription lenses which can be glazed with standard equipment, also ask the optical practice to glaze the the optical centres 3-7 mm above datum to help reduce distortion in the worn position when in the saddle.
I mostly use clear, photochromic and have some mirrors for sunny days which don’t get used much and are too dark for riding in wooded areas.
Field of vision is reasonble.

Unfortunatley all glasses will be an issue in wet or humid condition but I find they tend to mist up most when you are hot and stop for a short while. This can be helped by using anti-misting sprays or solutions or even wiping with soap solution on clean damp cloth and allowing to dry.
Get Rx lenses with a MAR coat (Mult-anti reflection) and a hydrophobic coating. The hydrophobic wears of after 6-12 months depending on cleaning but doesn’t cost any more on branded Rx lenses.

The only other issue I’ve found is movement/vibration of the frame with full face helmets and cut up trails with say bad braking bumps, things get a bit blurry :)

Sounds bad, a few months I would have thought.

Healing vibes dude

You may have the wrong tensioner/washer kit combination, I only know the different because I have both types of tensioner, although I no longer use the short version for reasons previously mentioned.

If your setup is new how about returning it to the shop, also you can get the longer plate on it’s own from SJS cycles for about £14 not sure about the pin and bolt though.

Sounds like a sticky inner cable, check for sharp bends or kinks in the cable route and if you have shortened the cable check for any burs on the outer or liner and finally is the cable routed ok at the hub end.

Good luck

The washer that allows rotation of the tentioner at the bolt when tightened is only used on the longer version with the pin for the dropout tab. If you use it on the short version it will just keep pulling the tensioner into the sprocket when you pedal.

The short version is designed to lock in place when tightened and should be manually adjusted to the correct angle of dangle :)

The short tensioner doesn’t have the pin that locates on the drop out tab for the rear mech.
Also the bolt to attach it to the dropout is designed not to allow the tensioner rotate at this point.
To resolve the issue –
1. Undo the the bolt that attaches the tensioner to the dropout.
2. Rotate the tensioner towards the rear of the bike until you get the required clearance for the sprocket.
3. Hold tensioner in the desired position and retighten the bolt.
4. Check clearance is good, re-adjust if necessary.

The longer version of the tensioner makes life a little easier for removing the wheel as the short tensdioner needs undoing and re-setting every time you remove the wheel :)

Hope this helps

Have a look at this thread.

They should be the other way round.

Looked into it a while ago and from memory stainless steel is better under compression (spines facing foreward) than tension (spines facing to the rear) where in theory ss stretches more.
Newer Hope rotors have a rotation direction arrow etched on to them.

Probably only realy an issue riding DH or the Alps where rotors may get a bit warmer.
But I would swop them to be safe, especially the front. :wink: