could try asking in the title if anyone’s got any dead spd shoes i guess?

yeh alright : ) but not really fussing. if i can save a bit with a scandal then why not?

and yeh, a soma juice
and it’s brown…

well, surprisingly fruitfull thread

i’ve got a steel frame i like at the mo (kona unit with geared drop-out) but not quite enough to add mounts, it’s a bit short and i’d like to swap it for something else. and finding a brazer might not be that easy as i’m abroad and moving again soon.

and apart from the inbreds, which i like but are a bit heavy too, other steel frames new might be a bit pricey.

but thanks anyway for all the suggestions. if only the inbreds were a bit lighter i’d go with one i guess, but i’m thinking i’ll hold out for an older Scandal to come up 2nd hand. i’ve had a few minium frames and really liked them, and tho i prefer the idea of steel, scandals sound great ride-wise.
KM would be nice but is also about the weight of the inbred i think.
i’m up for saving some weight as it’ll be for road use too.

so if anyone wants to buy a 16″ unit, or has a small or medium scandal, with mounts, then give me a shout : )

ahh, karate monkey. aye. that’s one i was forgetting.
always fancied one of them.

fargo doesn’t really fit the billsince designed for drops.
soem folk don’t like the ride apparently too.

be after frame only, 2nd hand ideally, just for cheapness.
will have a quick look for the cubes ta.

any more?

got sektors. solo air

a bit of sealant in a regular inner tube is a great compromise if you current tyre/rim combo doesn’t want to go on tubeless or ghetto tubeless. and you don’t want to shell out the cash on the conversion.
presta or schreider so long as you can unscrew valve core. some cheap prestas you can’t.

i have been doing this for a coupla years, tho i also run proper tubeless where tyre/rim permit, and i haven’t had a proper puncture since, or had a ride ‘ruined’ by having to fix a puncture.

one tyre was not holding air after a while, and when i popped it off to look there were about 20 thorns in there, so tube and sealant were doing not bad!

i also use car tyre sealant from halfods type place. only good with schreider as too viscose for presta, but WAY cheaper.

also handy if you want to change tyres, just a bit easier anyways.

i was overcomplicating it. somehow thought torque was something more extrapolated than it is.

so keeping force on disc from pads constant, you will simply stop in a shorter distance with bigger roter (kinda obv)

keeping deceleration constant, you would need less force from the pads with a bigger rotor.

so i guess the main factor which comes into play with a bigger rotor, is that i often brake harder than i would/could with a smaller rotor, just because i can. and this will presumably put more strain on bushes, though whether difference in wear is noticeable is debatable.

guess it’s time to change the bushes then.
worth getting the tool to do myself? everything else has just been done.

forks are well maintained (except bushes obviously!)
not too mincy a breaker, but yes there’s been some plowing into stuff with the fork packed down.
reckon i’d be better going back to 180s regardless so i’ve got more range and can still horse them on sometimes. now they are pretty much horse-on or off.
guess that’s really what’s making the difference.
can anyone resolve my (mis)understanding of torque for me tho?
edit, thanks oliwb!

how’s about the canyon?
https://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=3260#tab-reiter2
great spec for the cash as ever.

tho i’d probly not go for it myself cos i’d want rockshox spension!

and yes of course you should be thinking 650 : )

euain, isn’t it the other way round: same force to slow you down the same amount, but greater torque?
not saying i understand torque properly…

could easily be down to new non-avid brakes, bigger rotor and regular bush wear anyways all happening at once

thanks bigyinn.
are you pulling me up for asking again in a different way cos i got no response the first time?
not ad infinitum no, just a second time, phrased differently.
perhaps this has been asked a lot? i do usually search before asking something. maybe i didn’t this once.
it interests me so i thought i’d try again.

with an HV can? your rp23?

What are you using this for? Not greasing boat trailers I’m guessing?

Rob H, that morpheus thing look wacko, not in a bad way
but those drop outs looks proper wrong. take it they’re not minium?!

yeh. i reckon the spesh sx takes it! why do they keep numbers so limited?
is it purely financial? surely can’t be to keep it somehow special/ desireable? surely folk would buy them?

anyways, it’s not the syringes. it’s clearly the lever.
it’s spares or repairs then.

You’re probly right. I’ll get looking for a small for you then ;-)

Well aye. Didn,t think you meant screwed-in…
So which bit are you suggesting knackered or broken?

torsoinalake about right, hard enought o creat a vaccuum, not hard enough to overstrain other parts of the system or syringe

wurzelcube so where exactly are you saying the syringes must be screwed? the seal st the brass end where it screws into the lever presumably?
just to keep an open mind and be sure of what i reckon, i’ll try again in the morning with both syringes. ididn’t swap them round this morning; it is possible.
i actually had oil coming out the back end of the cylinder today, where i say the leak is, during the pushing-from-the-caliper-while-releasing-lever part.

jamiemcf for the record, i have already given in and bought some…..

XT : )

yep gaz, that’s what i pretty much decided today, tho i’m not going to do it and time soon, so here you go:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261448343998?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

AND, at risk of repeating ad infinitum, what i really liked the look of were those Ragley full suss bikes that never got past prototype stage.

if only some enlightened designer would catch on and make something like this, tho i think the meta hip-hop is close for me. perhaps now brant R’s got the Codiene out of his system (haha) he’ll be looking for something new to get his teeth into? :0

so 100mm back, 140mm front, and possibly 650b-able please brant et al!
thanks!
jimmer

do you not fancy his howler gaz?

what bothered me with frames like the rook is the weight+strength
i just don’t need it to be strong enough to ride crankworks. i ride a pitch at the moment and it’s probably a bit more bike than i need, tho i appreciate it.

but then i got a charge blender in december; in my eyes the hardtail version of the bike we’re talking about here. not light at all. but you really don’t notice. still climbs better than a full suss. it’s a small frma aimed at dirt jump, poss 4x etc, as well as trail if you like that sort of bike. with a dropper post it rides and climbs just fine and again, is more bike than i need. but i like tha style of it. it only served to convince me more that i want something like a rook.
tho it would be nice if it weighed a bit less…

aye so bled again this morning. now is worse and is clearly a leak around the piston/bladder assembly, as sram call it.
when pulling on levers syringe, air stream becomes constant, not just bubbles.
i’ll have the lever apart one last time to see if i can see any damage.
can anyone confirm, that this pist/blad ass. seals just under the circlip part? or further in? i can quite work it out
jimmer

they are big bubbles ~2mm dia. and they just keep coming. i’ve since been out for a ride tho, and did have some back brake, but was spongy an too far back to the bar ( with rech adjust right out, which also means bite point)

yes i cycled lever, port was at top as in lever was on bars, but in normal position. the noise cleary goes with the bubbles. same frequency. may try again to rule out bleed kit altogether.
thanks for input everyone.

thanks for keeping this topic alive gaz : )
you’re getting all my thinking done for me

Meta hip-hop?
cove hooker
and yep, Specialized SX (not trail)
saw one on ebay u.s. not long ago, lokked weird with dropper and seat up, but they sound spot on. i’m stuck on the meta hip-hop at the mo.

nice tho, how tall are you? looks more like my size than the M

yes i do! a shorter stem ; )

nob’dy?

thanks jimoiseau. hadn’t thought of that.
but yes i am sure, i can hear it squeaking by in the push-rod area.
having said that, i’ve put it together and it seems fine so far.

i’d love to get some shimanos, and won’t need much encouragement.
i reckon 7’s about right aye!

i’m 5’8 and a bit. i find the medium too long.
but i like a short feel.
i think women’s bikes are generally shorter in top tube (?)
it would do my neck in to tour on a medium. but maybe i have a relatively short torso/arms?

Wow, Tweeks website asking me £47 quid for delivery, it’s going to hungary, but still!
ebay one asking £3, more like it! thanks torihada

fwiw, chain reaction nearly always arrives next day at my folks’ in the scottish borders. it’ll depend where you live as they ship form various locations

Edit, vectiox ones now out of stock, in the time it took to change my delivery address. Noyying!

got it. thanks

yeh, so dual air U-TURN to to coil won’t work.
NON U_TURN dual air will. right?

thanks loco.
according to this thread: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/converting-air-pikes-to-coil ,

air uturn upper tubes do not have a circlip groove needed for the base plate / neg spring assembly ,

can you shed some light?
can you get/have you got neg spring and top-cap assemblies?

to be sure, these are Dual Air, U-turn 454s
thanks again

aracer, i don’t quite get what your photo’s showing tho.
snapped off spoke hole thing but you still built the wheel about it?
or what are the torx bolt holding? can you explain?
thanks : )

and you said ‘Hence why’…

[/url]
Elliott 00 Hope mono mini[/url]

says 2 things about my mechanical ability:
it’s bad enough to get the piston stuck in there in the first place
it’s good enough to use silo’s milling machine to get it out again…