go on Alex – bring the Flare! you’ll be fine on the rocks, those tyres are just what ou need round here! i’ve been creeping my tyre size up as much as possible since i’ve been here.
plus that way i can get a shot ; )

hi alex, your mail’s not come through to me, checked my spam folders an all. did you just reply to mine?

hey alex, i replied to your ardeche post last year; i’m the guy that lives here (still hot btw, 28 deg today!)
you still up for hooking up?
be a pleasur to show you and your group round my local trail network.
give me a shout.
email in profile.

is anyone running a 29er Sektor, with what rim/tyre combo?

just to finish this topic off, i got the injector seals done at a deisel specialist garage: 160 euros, and he said 2 were a pain in the arse to get out, and he had a special tool for removing old seals, and he pressure washed the engine. glad i took it there and didn’t bother myself.
next to change the oil.

not sure what you mean dirks.
the studding is all fixed together. vertical studs at corners are connected, wall top rails are screwed to ceiling rails (only know correct names in french, sorry) tho sometimes through the gyp, which is normal as i understand it (maybe not in germany!)

the caulked cornes which opened up all did so after 2 weeks of very hot weather, up to 37 deg. the initial work was done in the winter or early spring. seemed to me, wihout analysing it in much depth, that the uprights expanded with the heat, increasing length by a mm, maybe 1.5 absolute max, and so pushed up ceiling structure, which hangs on those little hangers which have some play in them.

anyway. not that intersting : )
i’ll tape my corners this time. don’t think i have any gaps big enough to use the patent tymbian method

thanks again tymbian. i’d love to tap your expertise more in the future : )
i’ll be drywall priming yes.
how do you make the expansion joint in drywall then? does it run through the studding as well? is it just finished with caulk at the surface or with a purpose made strip?

thanks tymbian,

when we say scrim we’re talking about mesh tape right? not paper?

so you stick the scrim on the board that ‘has’ the gap, (typically the wall board if ceiling’s been gyp-ed first) just butting the edge of the tape up to the other board, than fill up the gap through the scrim?
fill and sand to a finish, then caulk over the top to hide any eventual movement?

i agree paper’s not structural, but it seems to resist a lot better than scrim. and lots of folk have told me this. do you agree?

and yes duckman, i agree the steel reinforced tape is more for external corners, but some use it for internal too, and seemingly fine

without wanting to re-spout the old cliches about german engineering etc, i find there’s something scientifically open-minded in some bits of german culture which seems to mean they arrive at really good ways of doing things. proper job from the start. look at festool tools for eg.
mind you, once they’ve found that way of doing things, they won’t let you do anything else!

aye turns out it’s almost easier than flat joints.
using simple paper tape. piece o piss. jobsagoodun

hmm, another bit of skill to master then…

meaning paper tape if just joint filling taper edge boards?
not skimming

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/take-care-of-your-knees-part-2-17445/

there’s part 1 as well, both useful

best thing i have found recently is a ‘roller’ to roll my muscles and especially iliotibial band. made one out of 80mm waste pipe with old sleeping mat glued around with contact-adhesive.

yes worth going to gp, of course. tho depends on you gp a bit

thanks chris
the oil’s due for a change. got oil and filter sitting ready to go. so will do that.

thanks chris.
the leak is fairly open by now; it’s puffing away, and the clamp nut is pretty tight already; i’ve tried to tighten it a bit but it’s horsed right up.
also i’m already at home : ) it got me home and the rest. will easily get to a garage but hopefully not damage injeactor seat.

i’m not sure which engine. i could get onto wikipedia i guess
it’s 2001 2.0l Jtd (HDI)

i’m gonna call some garages on monday. seeing as i’m in france and there are millions of scudo/expert/jumpies around it should be fairly common job to the right garage.

if they quote me through the roof or can’t get the injector out i’ll think again.

ejector seats: pain in the arsch : )

good to hear danoodog thanks. have just been reading some horor stories of stuck injectors so was getting depressed about it!
will have a go as suggested by mc and call some garages on monday

excellant thanks mc. sounds like a good suggestion. i might get some quotes and see how much of a fright they give me.

it has been leaking a while i reckon.
there’s tar stuff collected and cooked around and about, but not clear if gunked around the injector itself.

so how it works: undo the clamp then draw out the injector with whatever equipment/means suitable. clean right down into bottom of the hole (with cotton buds in long tweezers i’ve read), replace seal (copper washer type thing?) and replace cleaned injector and clamp? that about it?
of course i’d need to disconnect the fuel pipes from the injector and re-connect after. how do i purge them? i do i just plug them and hope that the fuel pump does the business after?

thanks b n d
anyone else?

anyone done it themselves?

weird, i had the idea of making them myself a couple of months ago.

i had some Exotic carbon bars and found them really uncomfortable!

those new ‘suspension grips’?

achly do look worth a go to me. but too expensive.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/revolution-suspension-grips-review-2016.html

i too love my gravity lite. alu wrapped in carbon.
the gravity flat 777mmis ally only. shame. but looks loke it’ll do otherwise.

shit so they do!
i looked on their site the other day and couldn’t see one.
thanks doug

sure, but i like the combination between the 9 and the 5, or whatever it is. whether that adds up to a combined sweep which i could achieve with say a simple 14 deg bend and the right rotation, i’m not sure.
i think there are still 2 ‘bends’ going on and it doesn’t amount to the same thing, but might be near enough for me.
i’m not going to buy lots of different bars to find out though…

thanks nixie.

don’t see any upsweep on that atlas bar benpinnick?
possibly a bit overkill for me too, but worht a look thanks

i saw you big scot nanny, but in the show bit in chatel on saturday.
i test rode a pivot switchblade, a santa cruz high tower, and a banshee spitfire.
the plus tires were great, espeshly in steep mud with the brakes the wrong way round.
the spitfire was everybit as good as folks say, possibly helped by the cane creek inline. it was actually my favourite despite inadequate tyres and obligatory backwards brakes. now if only banshee did it in plus size…

also, on this site which is a good place for parts:
http://www.mountainbikes.net/mtbikes/ersatzteile.cfm?gnr=13

it show different CSUs for coil and air forks, suggesting they are not the same.

also state on page of the coil spring, that it is NOT suitable to adapt revelations (older revelations became sektors i think)

ho hum.

explains diff between RL/RLT and RCT3, but i think that’s old RLT, not DNA

ah, found useful thread from before:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/rock-shox-black-box-damper-where-from-cost

yep so, assuming i can put a coil in, i think that’s the best way to go. i read somewhere it’s not possible and i thought it was due to something to do with the circlip groove at bottom of air-spring upper. ring any bells? can’t find it anymore.

warpcow, yours were Sektor Rs as opposed to RLs. but i can’t see how that would really make the difference?

wish i had bought coil ones all along, they’re a tiny bit heavier, which swayed me, but i always seem to prefer the feel.

but also consider RLT damper. i take it that means MoCo DNA?
What does RLT have over the standard MoCo damper in my RLs?
i take it it’s more than just threshold adjustment?
it’s the DNA bit, right?

also, realised i’ve been mixing up terms, which is easy enough with rockshox. btu MoCo and DNA are compression damper terms i think…

thanks iffoveload. i’m re-resarching it just now, on mtbr turns out

aye, i would actually love if they were coil, but i’m pretty sure they’re not convertible. looked into it a while ago.
anyone confirm? 2013 solo air RL.

i spect there’s a bit of that going on yes. not that i feel it as flex, more as a kind of rattlyness. it also feels like they get a bit overwelmed by terrain at times.

i’m plenty analytical about it thanks JAG. and not about to splurge any money without convincing myself it’s worthwhile.
‘Hence-the-reason-why’ i’m asking on here

so to answer your points
1) Damping, i just don’t know. i do tinker with my rebound, a couple of click in either direction and end up coming back to the same setting, so i guess that’s the best i can get it.
As for compression, they only have low-speed compression damping adjustment; 5 clicks to locked out. i vary this between 1 and 2 clicks but being low-speed, the difference it makes seems to be between me pitching forward over the bars at times or not, ie not to plushness.
maybe replacing the damper with one with more adjustabilty would allow me to analyse this more

2) Spring rate. possibly there is more adjusting to do with spring rate. i should perhaps try running a good notch more sag for a full ride and see how i get on. i never bottom them out at the moment, and i reckon i should be almost bottoming them out on the biggest thing i hit, say if get have a messy landing.

3) Flexibilty. yes, as i said above i reckon this is affecting the feel, but i’m not a heavy rider though my trails are rough, they’re not mental, and i’m not going that fast. so i guess on paper 32mm stanchions should be ok, but maybe nevertheless, the 34mm pikes just inevitably feel plusher partly as a result of that.

I guess plushness best sums up what i’m really after.
btw wiper seals etc are done regularly

aye, meteo france was forcasting thunderstorms friday afternoon, but they’ve since moved to saturday morning. : ) for me!
: ( for you saturday folks
anyone camping in Chatel? i’m in a white scudo with light blue bits. come say hello

thanks everyone, food for thought.
i’ve clocked the rain issue, but i live somewhere where if it’s raining, we’ll not bother going. it’ll be for shade mostly.
i reckon i’ll buy some additional hammer-in eyes for my tarp,
screw bolts into roofrack mounts and just hook them over.
it’s just a shitty old scudo we’ll not be keeping for ever anyways

foam rollers do work a treat!
as the article says, they bloody painful, but a great way to do some sort of deep tissue massage on yourself = free, and you can really work at the right bits. not saying it’s better than getting worked on, but is really good.
i made one for myself out of a lenthe of 80mm waste pipe, with old camping roll-mat contact -adhesived around it. works a treat, and has sorted my knee problem a lot, though not completely.

thanks everyone.
i guess i’ll syphon it into clean bottles then when ready for pressurising and try to leave the guff behind

well my effort wasn’t that great!

but i’ve still not really had my questions answered…

the curve of the curve doesn’t change i guess you mean chaka, yes