Thanks… might go for the gt-85 as I always have some of that aboot 🙂

sorry, my bad… lol

400 should be perfect so 127/125 should do the trick 🙂

hmmmmm just looking at the fox version… again…. what size?

127mm or 101mm

fox post

Sorry, that’s what I meant 🙂

super, so just measure top(saddle) to kink/bend in the frame to get the A measurement.

Ta

Well, I have about 21mm from the clasp to the top of the post before the bars.

That’s at the maximum height I ride it so want to get it as low as possible as the frame bends so need as small as i can get away with.

From this info will the 380 be fine? Or even the 350 if I can get one.

Cheers

Any idea what height size for bike?

Ta

Thanks…. thought that would be the case, just wasn’t sure if it was a one size fits all.

I’ll keep looking 🙂

hey, will this do the trick?

ebay link to damper

Cheers 🙂

Ah, great stuff…. that makes more sense 🙂 I will keep myself glued to ebay and make the upgrade when I service them…

Out of interest. Is there still much talk about alternative seals for the forks instead of the fox ones? Keep reading about enduro ones. Though the post was quite old so wondered if it’s still relevant?

Cheers…

cool, cheers guys…

Got onto mojo and they said £239 for the part… Do you reckon I should be able to source a bit cheaper somewhere?

The forks are new 2012 from ebay. I have a straight head on the bike so bit limited on choice from Fox forks hence the purchase with FIT.

Not sure it’s worth doing at that price though as I’m trying to get a year or two extra out of the bike until I go shopping for the new Stead 🙂

sorry, can i confirm that the 15mm is the one i want on wiggle. Sorry, I know it’s obvious, but I got a bit giddy today and bought forks that were not the right size 😉 Though I now gather the hub is the same by hope it’s just the various caps you use.

sweet as… so that makes it easy to put the old pikes back in for winter 🙂

can I buy a 15mm one of these? I gather I just pull out the 20mm end caps in there now?

cap link size

that right?

I do indeed…. could you point me in the right direction on crc or somewhere like that?

Be good to be able to swap it back so I can use my old forks for blasting through the winter mud 🙂

Word on the street is no…

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/hope-evo-hubs-can-i-fit-a-10-speed-casette

ok, so do I need a spacer or not? Does that go behind cassette next to the wheel?

Cheers

Great responses chaps…. I really didn’t have it that tight so my bad… I will give it the beans when I get home 🙂

Ok, cheers guys.

I will give it a real good tighten when i get home and if it’s still acting up I’ll just get another cassette.

I gather then that you have to make it really tight for it not to come loose?

I’ve thought about doing it myself as i do most other stuff. Just can’t seem to find a good video on how to do it. Need to make sure I have all the appropriate tools too….

Also, how safe is it to ride the old one until I get the new wheel set up?

I can live with the grind, but don’t want it to fall apart on a descent…

Yeah, got a hope on the full sus, but not looking to spend quite that much for the winter burner 🙂

Cheers for all the posts. Still not sure weather to let the lbs have a go if they’re willing as I will probably mess it up 😉

Top man… thanks for the help 🙂

Cheers guys, I’ll check them out 🙂

Cheers guys 🙂

BTW, where’s the best place to get washers? It seems most of em are now just 180mm so will need a 5mm washer for the rear.

Cheers

Cheers Andy, I’ll look out for the correct size then 🙂

All done…. finally 🙂

removed a couple more links and its all good shifty like a beauty! Not sure why people said I needed a long mech?

Now to fix up the hardtail, which didn’t fair too well in our leaky shed 🙁

Ouch… sounds expensive 🙁

Just realised there is still a bit of give in the mech arm to swing up a little more. Just wondering if another link or two might just do it?

Think I might take the air out of the shock to double check.

hmmmmm, I changed from long to medium as I kept reading people saying it’s fine. I’m happy to try and not ride in small small, big big, just don’t want the thing to go bang if I do 🙂

Cheers

thanks nmdbasetherevenge, I’ve seen that one before 🙂

My mech is not acting like the shimano one in this example so it wasn’t altogether helpful. The mech is fully stretched at big big, but is too slack small small.

Cheers,

yeah, they’re pointing in that direction already 🙂 Think it’s as far as the mech will go.

Possible best to leave as is then no?

Cool. Yeah, thought it was a bit weird on the instructions to do that…

From the sounds of things this is pretty much where it’s at now. There is a little, I mean little, give in the chain. Could maybe make it a bit tighter, which I guess would give me clearance on the small small. Just don’t want to make it so that I rip off the mech if I go big big for whatever reason.

ok, so bypass the mech for now, just run it round the two largest cogs?

Ta

oh…. and not forgetting one of these 🙂

Blackspire Stinger – ISCG Mount/Red

“CLICK”….. noise of padlock on wallet… “Step away from the credit card sir….!”

Ok guys,

went for the long cage as I do sometimes cross the chain, which I have done for 5.5 years on my old x9 setup and was fine.

Here’s my stuff. Think this should all work ok?

Sram X9 Type 2 Carbon Long Cage 10 Speed Rear Mech
SRAM PG1070 10 Speed Cassette – 11-36t
SRAM PC1091 10 Speed Hollow Pin Chain
Blackspire super pro 34t – Ended up wanting nice shifting from the 22 so went a bit smaller
Blackspire super pro 22t
hope lightweight bashguard 32 – 34t – Looks quite pimp and a bit lighter than the huge thing i have now…
SRAM X9 10sp Trigger Shifter 2014 – pair 2x10sp

So much for a frugal month 😉 Looks like a student diet for the rest of the month 😉

Cheers guys, might go for a 22t/38t combo then with a long mech 🙂

Much appreciated 🙂

Ah,

thank you very much people…. looks like I’m going long 🙂

Just out of interest. If I went say, 38t, for the chainring, will I lose any gears in the middle?

Hey,

I am running the small and middle chainrings.

I want to get the best range out of the 20 gears available, with minimum cross over. I need to still get up the hills, but want a little more at the top, hence 36t for the middle chainring.

I currently have 34t on my cassette, but I’m gathering I will be looking at more like 40t with 10x cassette? I am also running 32t on my middle chainring and 22t on my small.

I think I’ll be looking at getting a 11t-36 x10 with 22t & 36t for my chain rings. Could I go to 38t for the middle chainring or will I loose some gears in the middle?

BTW, what size sram mech would i need for that set up?

Thanks so much 🙂