According to Shimano’s compatibility chart, R8020 levers should only use the BH90 hose (silver insert) no mater the caliper (785 included).

Target fixation?

Last stupid question, I promise!

For anyone with a non-LTD 2017-2018 frame, is it di2-friendly? It looks like wires could pass through the bottom bracket port, but what about down tube entry? Does one need to drill a cable stop, or could just squeeze a wire together with the brake hose? Also, can the routing be done through the BB shell to an internal battery in the seat tube?

@mounse701 lovely build, althogh to me it looks like the wrong colour seatpin 🙂 (love the spacers though)

@jrmac don’t mind some WIP pics 🙂 also any idea about my questions above?

@jameso thank you for the info!

@jameso, apologies for more trivial questions, but hopefully you can clarify these before they become my obsession:

– The Arkose 4 2017 framesets in stock at Evans, are they from the early production run, ie. do they have hidden mudguard mounts, or both mounts on the outside of the chainstay?

– Can a (di2) front mech be installed on a Arkose LTD frame?

Thanks

Email the manufacturer and ask …

Maybe he did, and the manufacturer then attempted a huge cover up…

Should work fine.

I heard the next XTR was really hot, but…

…oh forget it, way out of my depth here

Schwalbe Delta/Land Cruisers?

no easy “upgrade” path without junking the lot

Since it’s the same pull ratio, why wouldn’t 5800 shifter work with 4700 mechs (with the appropriate cassette) and 4700 shifters with 5800 mechs?

But this may be irrelevant to the OP, as he’s considering groupsets. Personally, if I were in doubt over spending extra £100 on parts, I would probably look at pre-owned.

To add to the list:

Norco Search

Saracen Hack

both have versions around £1000

My 2007 (ie. post Chris Cocalis, pre On One) Titus Eleven titanium hardtail. Full XTR (various generations), Pace carbon fork. Haven’t touched it in the last five years or so (gone dark side), unless to dust off. And to remove and sell the Chris King wheelset (replaced with a much cheaper wheelset).

I know 26″ is dead, but I will NOT give it away for peanuts.

I recently got the RS405, which are virtually identical in shape to the 505s, and I find them very comfortable. In fact, I find them at least as comfortable as the Apex they replaced. I have them set up higher on the drops, with the bobble against the top bends, covered with just generic cork tape.

My impression was the hate @astormatt mentioned was mostly related to looks, with everything else being comparable or improved over the 685s.

I thought there were mostly RS685s who went baggy?

I’d much rather have expensive shifters and cheap mechs than the other way around.

Isn’t it though the other way around with di2?

Don’t know about the bike, but love the memes

What’s wrong with people half-heartedly rallying behind a random symbol of political expression?

Also, whataboutism.

I found the Spyres to be good enough for year round cycling. Just two caveats: compressionless outers and regular pad reach adjustments.

To add to what’s already been said, AFAIK there are just two options for 10 speed full hydro: SRAM S700 or Shimano RS405. Both would require component upgrades from Claris, but the rear hub/wheel can be preserved. Especially the SRAM option seems rare enough to be even more expensive than 11 speed offerings.

Another (possibly) cheaper option is TRP Hylex with bar-end shifters.

I would’ve suggested a Sonder Camino; it ticks most boxes except no. 3.

The vision of Life Paint coming closer to reality.

Can we have an offence of stepping into a road in front of a cyclist?

That, and a contributory negligence award if the pedestrian didn’t wear a helmet.

There’s already a “Sir Chris” in cycling, isn’t there?

Does it have to be 11 speed? The new RS405 STIs (coupled with 785 calipers) can manage a 11-34 cassette with a 4700 GS mech.

Would a JTek Shiftmate be an economical solution? I think model 1 is what is needed

I too got a groupset off eBay. I relisted the (non-hydro) levers and (external) battery and bought the rest new, and it was still way cheaper than buying everything new.
You do need to lurk around ebay for a while, though, to get the proper combination of parts (I wanted the medium cage rear mech).

is it simply a matter of packaging securely

AFAIK, no.
Lithium batteries with electronic device* = Royal Mail restricted items (ie, can be sent with RM under certain conditions)
Lithium batteries in isolation = Royal Mail prohibited (ie, use other courier). (source)

Third episode […] no boobs.

Who would fall for this trap!?

…oh!

as a squishy road user, you also have some responsibility to not do dumb shit

and there endeth the lesson[/quote][/quote]This, Google-translated in cyclist speak: if you can’t outsprint the HGV, don’t attempt to.

My favourite head-scratcher is to ask them about stars. We can’t see the Southern Cross from the Northern Hemisphere. Folk in the Southern Hemisphere can, but they can’t see Polaris. Folk near the Equator can see both. How does that work on a flat earth?

How about the “celestial dome” having some sort of lenticular structure?

To be honest, conspirationists scare me. My guilty pleasure is to play the devil’s advocate and troll those that think science is absolute. 😈 [GrahamS, not implying you are one of them]

Is there a lip?

Yes, what we know as Antarctica is actually an… uhm!… ice wall that goes all around the… uhm!… flat Earth.

I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. I do have a microSD, and Garmin Express decided it should install on it, but failed on two attempts (transfer speed got gradually lower until it just stopped).

Then I did the following:
1. Backup the contents of the Edge 1000 storage;
2. Delete all big (*.img) files in the Garmin folder;
3. Connect to Garmin Express and reinstall maps.

Surprisingly, everything installed just fine in just the Edge’s storage(no need for the microSD) with room to spare.

Does it sound feasible that the Sora crank has buggered things up, in terms of crank ring positions??

To answer this specific question, I don’t think so, as I did the exact same thing as you (switched out a square taper for a Sora HT2 -both double- having double Sora front mech and shifter) and it just worked.

This is with the 3500 series Sora (i.e. 9 speed).

Another vote for Spyres, but the most important part of a cable disc brake setup is probably the (compressionless) outer – with this, even Lyras work well enough.

Just to repeat what simons mentioned on the previous page, a recent study on the topic has concluded that “age does not affect the material properties of expanded polystyrene liners in field-used bicycle helmets“.

The only concern I would have is the Roadhouse only has one set of eyelets, so the rack would share the fixing with the rear mudguard. you may need some longer bolts and, hopefully, they are M5, not M4.

In any case, ashfanman, I would love to see some photos of your final build.

@ashfanman: How much tyre clearance do you need? A colleague of mine has the 2016 model and with the original tyres (30c) he struggled with the mudguard options and ended up with some RaceBlades. The internet suggests that anything over 35c does not work.

Could the Rotor INpower be an option? Just over £500…

@boriselbrus
Is your fork straight or tapered? Because this might narrow down your choices…
Also, what is the budget? Would you be happy with a pre-owned Boardman CX (frame-only L sizes seem to pop up on ebay all the time) or with a brand new pedigreed Ti (Lynskey CooperCX/Urbanskey, Enigma/Sabbath/Qoroz etc.)?

Helmets work

Depends… 🙂

This review is like a black swan for me, but cannot help notice a few things:
1. The strongest evidence of helmet effectiveness comes from ‘children’ (as in under 16 years old) with two obvious examples – Gulack 2015 and Lindsay 2014 providing around 40% of the data points;
2. Main author clearly has an interest in the area, as he has previously tried to discredit Ian Walker’s study on driver behaviour around helmeted vs non-helmeted cyclists. All this coming from NSW, not subjective at all…