Yep, don’t know why they bother to use these headlines, as surely anyone can see that they’re meaningless.
I’d be more inclined to respond to “At least nn% off everything”

best I’ve found is 35K but realistically 45-50k

I wouldn’t say 35k on a 4 year old diesel was a good thing. Not been used efficiently.
35k is a good mileage to buy an 18 month old diesel at IME.

Any of the marazochhi rc3 ti forks are a good bet. Reliable and easy to service.

I’ve got a 44 that’s 140mm and a 55 thats 160mm. There were 44 and 55 that were 150 and 160mm

Not many about second hand, but I love them

Yes, probably the best forks I’ve used. Had 44 on one bike and66 on another. Titanium coil spring, bombproof reliability, superbly plush and same weight as an air fork.

I have a 140mm 44RC3Ti going spare ever since I snapped the Ti frame that it was attached to :(
Can do some pics if you’re interested. Would be looking for about £200.
Preston area.
email in profile.

Yep, Sportsman makes a good start/end point for Hayfield rides, mainly because there’s parking on the roadside up there.

From experience I’ve found that:

1. The pad of an E4 is deeper than the braking surface of a Shimano RT76 rotor. No interference problem as such, but not getting full efficiency from pad. Swapped to a Hope rotor.

2. The rivets of a Hope 203mm floating rotor do catch on the post-mount slot of an M785 XT calliper. I suspect this is the situation you’re worried about.

I’ve had M785 XT on all of my three bikes for a few years.
Initially they were great. I loved the immediate feel.
HOWEVER… Every set has since gone back under warranty. They all started to get temperamental at approaching the two year stage.
The key symptom (aside from the obvious bit – the bite point all over the place) was that when bleeding, lots of black mucky fluid came up from the lever into the funnel. I put this down to seal degradation.

Warrantied. Replaced. Sold the new warranty replacements. Bought another brand.

Bookmarked for a read later.
Looking for a safari/beach combo for big anniversary next year.
Something like Kenya/Zimbabwe and Maldives combo would be high on the list.

Tip – you can vote more than once if you use different browsers…

You can vote as many times as you like if you clear cookies in between each ;)

dashed,
this one?
https://vimeo.com/168617172

I was embarrassed to take the (non-biker) Mrs to that.
I’m extremely disappointed that I spent good money and an evening of my time.
Don’t think I’ll go to another.

Young Tom and his film were great.
Danny & Martyn were good on stage.
The local films and Lee Cragie’s one were pretty good too.

The rest was dire.
Overall, far too much “rad-ness” and irony.

Truly awful.

Plan on running a standard crank and if it causes problems mount the chainring on the outside of the tabs.

Did consider that briefly but need a 30t or less, which if on a 104BCD XT, would end up much more than 6mm outboard.

Thanks honourablegeorge, that’s good to know re boost chainline being sufficient.
Have I misunderstood the chainline calcs then?
I thought that as the FF is +6mm towards driveside at the rear, so a boost front (an extra 3mm outboard) would theoretically still be 3mm too far inboard, whereas a PF30 ring (which is 0mm offset, where a “normal” chainset is -6mm) sound like it should be correct.

Will look at boost chainset options now. That might swing it in favour of the FF, as I had thought I’d be pretty much restricted to XX1 or X01.

Not worried about the re-dishing at all. The more even spoke tension L/R is probably a very good thing. Will also give better mud clearance between chain and rear tyre, something that I’ve suffered from on other bikes in the depths of Winter. I’d be running 29er.

It’s on my shortlist. I do fancy the idea of a slack ‘ardcore 29er but I have a few reservations though, so would really like to see one in the flesh before taking the plunge.

The minor things that are putting me off at the moment are:
1. The weird +6mm rear wheel offset and what that does to the chainline. I think it restricts crankset options significantly. Looks like an option might be to use a SRAM spiderless GXP crank but with a PF30 ring on it to push the chainline out 6mm at the front.
2. The potential durability/robustness of the adjustable dropout/tensioner things.

I’m down to a shortlist of the Last or a P7 I think.

I’m looking at options for these too.
This looks like a good starting point for advice:
http://www.techmoan.com/what-is-the-best-dashcam

I’m probably going for the Transcend 200 as I’ve got Argos vouchers to spend

You’re welcome :-)

are you sure it doesn’t swing down? They’re usually on a bracket that rotates through 90 deg.

Thanks Andy for confirming needle roller bearing number.
I haven’t changed that one yet but I’ve done the main pivot and the chainstay bearings.
.
So, for future reference, the bearings for the 301 frame are:
.
Main pivot – 2 off – 6902 LLU MAX-E 15x28x7/10, (extended inner race)
Chainstays – 4 off – 68012RS (aka 618012RS)
Seatstays – same as chainstays
Toptube needle roller – 2 off – na49002RS

It may be a needle roller bearing

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/calling-301-owners-liteville-bearings

I can’t see the pics from here but I understand the descriptions above.
Just remove the finned bits and fit your new pads without them. Unless you’re doing thousands of metres of descent and your nostrils are filled with the pungent aroma of burning breakpads… then you don’t NEED the cooling fins. :-)

No it’s not Whitehough, but yep stayed there too though (from school).

Harry, no rollerscates – just a bike :) … mates lived in places like Barley & Higham and I had to get there on my bike. I often cursed my dad for buying a house 1000 feet up on a hill, and steep whichever direction you were coming from.

My god, there’s a blast from the past. Yep, been there/done that many many years ago.

Lived in Newchurch for years as a kid. Next house up the hill from the witches shop.

park at the foot of the bridleway that goes up from Keswick to Latrigg, here

Up Latrigg; up the bridleway that you descended; summit; turn around and branch right after 200 m to pick up that scree slope; Ullock Ridge then decision time…either fork left off the end of the ridge and drop back through woods towards Keswick…. or… go straight on and pick up the track to Whitewater Dash/Skiddaw House/etc and then Lonscale Fell back to Latrigg; descent from Latrig to Keswick is OK.
This option makes it a reasonable day out, bit short otherwise.

If you want a longer challenge, park at same spot; track to Blencathra Centre; hike a bike up Blencathra; traverse summit ridge; descend Scales Tarn and down to Scales Village; traverse above Threlkeld to Blencathra Centre; doubletrack up Glenderaterra beck; back down Lonscale Fell to Latrigg; up Skiddaw; down scree slope; over Ullock; fork left at end of Ullock; down through woods; road back to carparking.
That’s a full day out, 26 miles/6500 feet
https://www.strava.com/activities/643997720

[edit] yes the climb from Skiddaw Ho is a horrible boggy mess. Don’t do it. I have and wouldn’t again. [/edit]

Aldi for me.
Tried a couple of bottles of the Stellenbosch Cape Red at the weekend. Really quite good for £7!

Decent beer too, eg Cocker Hoop at £1.25 a bottle.

Ground coffee pretty good too. The one with the zebra on the pack (Ethiopian?)

I had a play with some Stans presta valves in schrader rims the other night. Looks like they should be OK.
Also found some lockrings that had a stepped section that fitted snugly into the wider hole.

http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/phones/cheap-broadband

I always go M6 & M40 if I have to go from NW to SE. Only bit that varies is the Birmingham area, where M5 is sometimes a better option dependent on traffic.

If it has to be Wales, I’d say Snowdon & whichever trail centres you fancy (Antur Stiniog, Revolution, etc).

But if “from Preston” is the main criteria, I’d say go to Lakes instead.
I live near Preston and my Lakes:Wales riding destination split is probably 95:5
Much less weather dependent and so much more to go at.

Fit is important, test whether they fit helmet properly

This is IME, far more important than which brand.

… IME easier to navigate than the warren of trails round the forests.

Yes, great trails but a potential navigation nightmare.
I like to think I know what I’m doing with a map and compass but I can get myself lost on Grisedale cheeky off-piste stuff without much effort at all.

Avoid the “problem” – ride the footpaths instead :P

I’ve tried 203 Hope rotors with XT caliper – and yes, I too found that the rivets clipped the mounting tabs of the caliper. Sorted it with a file but never had 100% confidence that a sticky piston or similar wouldn’t one day cause an accute rivet/caliper interface issue!!!

Conversely, I’ve also used Hope calipers with XT discs. These worked but the braking surface was not deep enough to utilise the full depth of the Hope (Tech3 E4) pad.

So, perhaps boringly, I’d say XT calipers best with XT disc and Hope caliper with Hope disc.

Ullock :) One of my favourites too.

I’m a similar size to OP and looking for a new XL hardtail to replace my snapped 456Ti. Would love to try a hardcore 29-er but haven’t seen anything remotely comparable to what I’d recognise as ‘ardcore (eg 65 deg H/A, loads of tyre space and can take a 150mm fork). What does the equivalent 29-er look like?

I ran std single ply front and dual ply rear tubelessly on both Crest and on Flow. Both worked fine tubeless with just valve/yellow tape and Stans fluid.

Bought a pair of spitfires about 4 years ago and found them very well made but a bit too flexible in the sole and without much protection in the upper. Relegated them to non-bike casual use instead. Still wearing them.

More recently, a few mates have had Impact VXI fall apart within a few weeks and had to be warrantied. Soles separated from uppers.

Personally, I like the std Freeriders, mainly because the sole/rand is stitched to the upper. They are a bit flexible in the sole but less so than the Spitfires were. Just wish they weren’t so damn wide fitting as I’ve got Shimano shaped feet. Shimano AM40s were also prone to soles coming off long before they’re worn out though.

I’m not entirely convinced. :?
I do like the pipe lagging ghetto idea though, just so long as it’s sufficiently high density to withstand the impacts.

On the other hand, I am totally convinced by Procore. It’s working really well for me.

It’s a common fault. Warranty job if less than 2 years old. They usually just replace it.

Pretty sure mine’s MM
Vivid air has behaved itself pretty well for me on the XL 601. What failed with yours?

new chain? XX1 were no more expensive on Amazon than anywhere else when I looked, so I used a spare voucher up on that.

A&E won’t do anything for broken ribs, true – but the danger here is that you might have done more than crack a rib or two.

Two real life examples from riding buddies in the last 12 months:
1. One guy thought he’d pulled a few muscles and cracked a rib. Drove home from Fort William to Lancs, went to A&E as it wasn’t getting any better. Turned out he’d broken his back.
2. Another guy came off on first run at BPW. Assumed just aches and pains from soft tissue damage. Drove home to Lancs, went to A&E because it was getting worse. Found out he’s torn his spleen into three pieces. They said that if he’d just gone to bed as he’d planned, then he wouldn’t have woken up in the morning!