Tart.

Depends on your forks, some aren’t warranted for 203mm.

The same company charge 60.00 for rebranded MG1s, nuff said.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/how-can-i-fix-this-reverb-remote-content

see second post

Google steerer tube extender/extension.

Final bleed should be done with speed adjuster wound out in slowest position, if you’ve not done it this way the post will be slow to return.

Mines fine (rp23) with a definite but small difference between off, 1, 2, and 3, by the time you get to 3 its reasonably stiff.

@Nuke according to Mojo a slight knock with pro pedal on is normal.

@Rob no noise from mine so it might be an indication of cavitation.

Anything other than Merrel!

Had a pair of GTX Chameleons that leaked water although they where meant to be waterproof, vibram soles that were lethal when wet, without doubt the worst pair of shoes I’ve ever owned. I did contact Merrel but they couldn’t be bothered to reply, never again.

Second hand Snap on, you’ll easily get your money back if you ever come to sell it.

The answer is yes, it’s normal.

My mate sent some photos to Mojo about this exact issue last week after I pointed out his was sticking out :D

Waswas, he’s refering to the underside of the crown where the steerer goes through.

As boxfish says,
Hope floating rotors won’t work with 6 bolt to centre lock adapters, they’re too thick, can’t be tightened securely and rub on the adapters, any none floating rotors should be fine.

Yes.

KMC recommends you to take away the excess grease from the chain’s outside by spraying some (eco) cleaner along the chain and immediately wiping it. By removing the grease outside you will prevent it from atracting too much dirt. Make sure the grease inside the chain is not affected!

So no, do not degrease before use!

Amazing, people will give the wrong advice and then delete their posts so as to not look daft!

If only someone could come up with a way of attatching a small ring to the crank and the ability to change from the big ring to small on the fly, this would give the rider the ability to ride up and down in a gear most suited to themselves. :D

If your lucky you’ll just need this

http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk//product.asp?category=750&part%5Fno=R5016020A&find%5Fcategory=750&find%5Fdescription=&find%5Fpart%5Fdesc=

If you’ve carried on using it there’s a chance the broken plunger will have scored the inside of the remote in which case you’ll need to replace the whole remote, this happened to mine.

I know, ridiculous price, just hope you don’t have to replace the whole unit!

People don’t, manufacturers do.

Personal preference init?

I run 711 bars (Easton Haven)on my five with a 70mm stem. I would happily run wider bars but wouldn’t want to go shorter on the stem as I feel it would detract from it’s climbing ability.

I think it should be fine, my brother uses a 596 caliper with the new XT lever (brm 785), previous to that he was running the 785 lever with a 525 caliper.

@kenztwinturbo
Yes a 34t bash would give you the option of running a 34t chainring instead of your current 32, it all depends on what gearing your happy with. If you wanted you could probably fit a 36 bash and run a 36 or 34 ring, the worlds your oyster.

A chainguide helps prevent your chain dropping off, if your not dropping your chain then you don’t need one.

They might not need bleeding.

They will feel like that if the pistons are not aligned/balanced i.e. one piston sticking out more than the other.

To balance pistons push the rotor against the one that is sticking out / protruding the most whilst at the same time pulling the lever, repeat as necessary until pistons are balanced.

You could go with a 34t bash this would leave you with the option of fitting a larger middle (now outer) ring at a later date, just gives you a bit of leeway.

For in depth weather forecasts I reccomend Gavin Partidges You Tube channel

http://m.youtube.com/user/GavinPartridge?desktop_uri=%2Fuser%2FGavinPartridge

You don’t need rotors, just follow davewalshes advice above.

There’ll be none left by the end of the year.

Ime they’re not much warmer than standard bibs and they’re not particularly wind resitant either, if you want to maintain the dwr finish they will need to be washed in flakes/liquid soap, graphics crack and fall off 6/10. Agree with the br review.

I have a pair of cheap crane (aldi) tights which are much better.

I have a similar setup (although not direct mount) and have it set so when in outer ring (old middle) the outer plate on the front mech is as close to the bash as possible.

If you can’t get it low enough you might get a bit of premature chain rub on the bottom of mech when in the granny.

Hammerite them.

I run a Easton EC70 on my Maxlight and it makes a big difference (you can see it flexing) however its only 26.8.

Have a look at Syntace they do one thats designed to flex fore and aft.

here http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=2033

What stumpy said…… use the Norton removal tool download it of their site.

Rich, I’m not trying to sell you one I just want you to have the facts. If I knew they where going to pull the plug on the 26″ I wouldn’t have bought one myself.

Found the thread see 21st post down (stumpyjumper).

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/next-trail-bike26-or-275

Ali , there was a thread on here not long ago in which Orange refused to sell the op a new swingarm(26″). They stated that the one’s they had left where for warranty claims only.

I think my five is good but I have no idea how it compares to a Zesty.

It’s probably worth noting that if you do go for a 26″ five there’ll be no off the shelf spares available as they have been discontinued.

Mission 780se and Rotel rb/rc 850 pre/power combo.

Also check the sizing out , I ride an 18″ five however if I where buying a Trance I would need a large.

Get a test ride on one , at end of the day it comes down to personal preference. I’ve not rode a 27.5 trance but have rode the 26 and own a five. Both capable bikes put quite different in the way they ride.

Ime They’re Prone to warping and rip pads apart.
Have they decided which way they should be run yet?

The new talas is a completely different beast to the old, the airspring has been redesigned and many of the seals that plagued the old design no longer exist.

Ketchup and Mayo, mmmm

New sealed cartridge type bearings do tend to be a bit tight until bedded in, they’ll no doubt loosen up after a couple of rides.

Nothing you can do, it wont be an issue with the QR its just they’re new.