edward2000 – Member

Jamie your post is so misleading. You haven’t read my posts throughtly obviously. The link which I supplied earlier, the advert which I read, describes the tyres as

Mavic Crosroc tubeless wheel and tyre combo
. NOT what the Mavic wheel website says.

I think you owe me an apology.

Get over it and move on…

It makes no difference what the website says, that damage was caused by low pressures and the tyrewalls “creasing” up. Speak to Retailer/Mavic.

The marks around the tyrewall have been caused by low tyre pressure.

I’ve seen it before on non tubeless tyres that have been run at very low pressures, it’s easy to reproduce and is caused by the tyrewalls “creasing” as the wheel rotates.

Is there a minimum pressure printed on the sidewall, if not take them back?

I don’t think it’s the Trex causing it, I’d remove the Trex and try it without, does it still do it?.

Northwind – Member

Apparently you can watch the Adventure Show on 970 on sky, it’s on scottish terrestrial right now- just been covering the 4X at fort william, downhill next. And, er, some bits of an old man wandering around

Ta for that.

Also available on iPlayer, gonna watch it now.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b04b6f7l/the-adventure-show-20142015-episode-2

Reseat memory,

run memtest86+
http://www.memtest.org/
or
memtest86
http://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

A Nipple Driver can save you a lot of work.

Wheelbuilding Tip #15 – Spin Those Nipples

Autoglym Super Resin polish, or, if the scratches are bad, Autoglym Paint Renovator, much easier to work with than T-Cut IMO.

If you use Tcut or Autoglym Renovator you’ll need to apply polish(Autoglym Gloss Protection) to seal the paintwork afterwards. Super Resin Polish does both, seals and removes scratches and would be my first choice (also works well on bike frames), you can’t go wrong with anything in the Auotglym range IMO.

Back em all off and start again, wind nipples on evenly by counting the number of turns, its going to be difficult getting the final tension correct without a tension/deflection meter, you may have already over tightened them.

Maybe a job for LBS.

Or it will snap under load, unbreakable chains go with unsinkable ships like the Titanic.

Thousands of cars on the road that use a chain to connect the bottom half of the engine to the top, they will happily cover tens of thousands of miles with no attention whatsoever, it’s not very often they snap.

2 year warranty on Rockshox.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/stravasshole

http://www.three.co.uk/Support/Coverage

[Quote]shadowrider – Member

It’s actually Lee W, but I forgot about Pete and Guy as well

Posted 1 minute ago # Report-Post[/quote]

Great stuff, where getting somewhere now.

That’s a definite three Lees we can add to the list unless someone else knows another.

shadowrider – Member

Well there’s me, Dave, Steve, Lee, Noggin, a couple of Stu’s and a Tom in Brum

Posted 3 hours ago #

Was gonna say Lee, is that Lee P, Lee S or is that another Lee?

Spray liberally with some silicone lube, I wouldn’t use gt85, wd40 etc as they can damage rubber and plastics.

Shimano, Sram, Kmc they’re all the same never had a single one break.

I don’t think its coincidence, the people I know who break chains tend to have little or no mechanical sympathy.

Edit sorry double post

In my case Northwind I never suffered from pinch flats anyway, to be honest Im a bit disillusioned with the whole light wheels tubeless thing.

Ive recently gone from 2.1kg wheelset with tubes to a 1.7kg wheelset without tubes, cost me close to 200 quid and cant say I’ve noticed much, if any difference.

Before anyone comments……… nothing wrong with the wheels, I built them, they are true and at the correctly tensioned.

They’re owned by Snow and Rock and IMO as a company they’re assholes and don’t like this sort of publicity.

Don’t be surprised if their legal department show up and attempt to get this thread shut this down.

dooge – Member

I thought a 200g per wheel minimum with standard tubes is a decent saving. Im persuaded to do it and my LBS said they will do the legwork!
I don’t how you get the figure of 200 grams per wheel, you’re replacing a 200 gram inner tube with 60-120 grams or so of sealent (dependent on tyre size) +valves.

It was less than that in my case I was using 130 gram conti mtb light tubes which I have swapped for 100 gram of sealant.

Take wheels off, place in wheel bags, wrap frame in dust sheet, sorted.

3×9 XT front mech will be absolutely fine with 9 speed Deore shifters, there are no compatability issues with them.

Under warranty so no point messing about with them, send them back.

Released my grip on the bars in order to operate the dropper lever, bars spun round and nearly skewered myself, this was at Cannock on the fireroad leading back to the carpark. :oops:

Also managed to smash myself up practising attempting manuals.

I only do daft!

@loco, Any Fox gold?

Manufacturers charge and have always charged ‘whatever the market will withstand’.

Recent pricing suggests there’s been an upsurge in the number of people with large disposable incomes for whom price is pretty much irrelevant.

FYI

XT are fitted with ceramic pistons which means they should run cooler, probably worth considering if your a fat knacker or do a bit of extended downhill,uplifts/alps etc.

Nope, expect to get fleeced for around £100.00 though, they’re robbing barstewards.

Park tension meter is a guide, a guides better than a guess and no more posherer than a torque wrench and we all use one of them….don’t we?

They’re not essential, however, if I where to build two sets of wheels, one with, one without, I would take the set I’d built with the help of tension meter all day long.

Well done on building your first one.

Edge MC1, 21mm internal, 265 grams, 75kg weight limit.

Try here, just down the road from you.

http://1868racing.co.uk/

Probably best to give them a call first in order to check they have what you need.

Arial Antibacterial.

http://www.pgpro.co.uk/ariel-professional-actilift-regular-laundry-powder

Knew it was going to be float but had to check anyway, resisted for 7 hours.

Another vote for Joe Blow Mountain, seats tubeless in a couple of pumps.

Re:- pressure, it’s only good for around 70 psi.

Lazy = lazy

Fat = more calories consumed than burnt.

Its simples, what don’t people understand?

As my previous post, wont a top swing (low band) mount fit below the direct mount, looks like there is plenty of room for one?

Aye just read that Speeder, clearly not a Roval then.

Could it be a Roval rim, look similar, see my previous post?

Re:- Rim tape

It appears he was using rim plugs

http://m.pinkbike.com/news/first-ride-roval-traverse-fattie-wheels-2015.html

Won’t the old 9 speed double specific SLX top swing (band type) fit below the direct mount?