Agree about the blues, absolute hoot to ride, you can never have too much Sixtapod. Good to get going before heading on to the other colours. Some of the lower blacks are good value also.

Viscous Valley start, talk about stupidity. Rolled up, read the sign, kept rolling one hand on bar “Oh S***!” it meant this, I got off lightly compared to others but felt a complete Muppet.

I’ve ridden all the blues and reds on a BFe without to much fuss although life did get a bit rattly on Rim Dinger and I won’t be rushing back to Deep Navigation on it!

I had a great ride yesterday, some solitary off piste then the groomed stuff. Grip was good Surprised how busy it wasn’t.

I went last week for a couple of hours after a day working in the area this is my route.

Start through the big forks down Pinderosa and before it goes up join the blue for some fun in the berms. Cross first road and continue on blue to next road. Go through car park, cross bridge, turn left along fire road to an uphill right before a gate. Follow round to start of Pink Heifer but continue of fire road, go round gate, through wood and cross stream up a short climb to rejoin red route at marker post. Turn left and head round to Hermon.

At the end of Hermon go up the road passing the cafe and up the hill. Turn right at the sign onto fire road, at next junction left to road, then right and right again back onto fire road to start of Adams family descent.

After the descent you can either repeat Hermon/Adams or go back to Adams by going towards PH but bear left and up the fire road, at Junction turn right and follow fire road round to half way cafe. Third option is to reverse your out journey and pick up the escape road.

A slightly longer version but still within your time limit. From the car park ride up fire roads to get to Brutus and follow MBR round to pick up description from PH above.

It would be easier with GPX but I don’t use such technology. Get some route maps from MTB Wales site and it should make sense.

You’ll be fine. Top bit of the South at Whinlatter isn’t really like anything at Cannock. First go have a look get back to the fire road then ride back up and give it some beans. If it is a bit gloomy there are a couple of tricky bits in the Dark, Dark Wood on the North Loop. Good fun.

My Ariel 14X has now gone for good. Shame really, bushing nonsense aside it was a good bike for the riding I do.

Transferred all the kit to a Banshee Spitfire frame.

It was riding well yesterday. Some of the natural stuff a bit sloppy in places but the Dog & Monkey were fine.

I’m inclined to agree GD ref the numbers game. What I was trying to avoid was doing as you suggest but finding the thing was rubbish no solution to the problem. I’m getting a feeling that would not be the case.

Thanks Chief, does it not also affect the BB height?

It would be good if the distributor could give a straight answer to the question about 142 availability, but they seem reluctant to do so.

Thanks intention was 142 and is proving problematic but I suppose if needs must the hub (Hope Pro2) could go to one of the others. Still be interested in other answers the questions.

Given the knowledge on this thread I thought I’d resurrect it rather than start a new one.

I want to get a Spitfire frame but don’t have the money for a new set of 650b wheels and forks so want to run it old skool with my existing 26 inch stuff. In theory this should be a doddle, in practice not quite so as I can’t find any 26 dropouts. Which leads to a couple of questions:

1) Has anyone just put 26 inch wheels in the 650b dropouts? If so what is it like and what are the preferred positions for the flip chip things?

2) Has anyone got a set of 26 inch dropouts they no longer need and are prepared to sell on?

Sunday 6th at 12.55pm GMT. Allowing for the GoPro flattening things out I’m guessing some of it is actually vertical, should be entertaining.

I have the RC2 without quick release. Just about every ride I have to take the wheel off to get the bike in the car. It really isn’t an issue, takes seconds.

I have a small BFe with old skool wheels, 1*10, Stans Ex flow on Hope pro 2 hubs. I prefer to use Fox 36 (2015) spaced down to 140mm. Use Hans Dampf 2.35 tyres.

My lads BFe is similar but has a 150/130 Revelation and that is also fine.

Communication with Saracen (Sportline) on this matter doesn’t seem a strong point.

I have been through 3 sets of bushings this month including one set of the supposed “problem solvers”. Saracen are adamant that no other bike fitted with these newer bushes have had any problems. They have now accepted the frame should go back to them for further investigation, which is a pain as it has to be stripped down and I have no idea when (or how) the saga might be concluded.

It really does look like they have shot themselves in the foot with this one.

My procedure, get home and stand 5.10s against garage wall for half an hour or so, this allows water to drain to the heel cup. Empty water out and squeeze water out of the heel fabric and tongue. Fill shoes with newspaper and put in the airing cupboard overnight. Plan B if the heating is on is the top of a radiator but the smell can offend other family members.

BTW there was a fella on here recently posting about riding in the opposite direction.

That was me, I was asking about riding it. Consensus seemed to be the other direction to the blog post. Not done it yet, postponed till next year.

Anyway I enjoyed the read certainly seems like an adventurous day out, good effort.

Yes, generally works well with an HD upfront. However, they don’t seem to like rocks. Both of mine have ripped through from one of the side knobs when they hit rocks which has never been a problem for the HD’s.

The NN version I have are the expensive Evo ones so yes I was a bit miffed at having to patch them up after a couple of rides.

Mine are 26 run tubeless.

I regularly ride a Cotic BFe round Cannock, including excursions to Stile Cop. It is a great tool for the job, I suspect a Soul might be better.

Mine is mormal (14x), 6mm hex on non-drive side of bike. Make sure the tool is well seated which is not that easy given the access to the hole.

Be careful with that bolt, the head seems soft and easily rouned. LBS have trashed two during my multiple replacements.

Saracen called me today to apologise for being slow to respond and to explain the situation with respect to a fix. Summary is they are in final testing of the fix, testing on real bikes using uplift in the Alps apparently. Should have bits ready to send out in a few weeks. In the meantime they are happy to keep sending out replacement bushes.

I did suggest an official public statement/explanation might be a good idea given the damage this has caused to the brand. I won’t hold my breathe for that one.

Pity Saracen can’t be bothered to send me an email saying they are testing a fix. Their silence is damaging.

My 14X is just back from having a fourth set of bushes in less than a year. Saracen have refused to replace the frame. Saracen have told LBS that a long term solution is close which I have heard before so won’t get excited by that. Saracen also won’t pay for LBS to fit new bushes, so you are reliant on goodwill.

I mailed Saracen last Monday asking for an explanation and pointed them at this discussion. I have not had a reply.

The trees on Lower Cliff were felled earlier this year which, unsurprisingly, resulted in damage the trails. Chase Trails are working to get it reopened, which is much appreciated.

toppers, can you give the basis for what you say? Not doubting it but it might be helpful in my upcoming discussions.

You could have a look at this thread:

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/saracen-would-you

My 14X is probably going back, 3rd time it has had the problem with the bushes in less than a year. For me the bike is sufficiently good to give it a second chance with a new frame.

That is a great descent Postierich, on a tandem I imagine it could quickly develop into an epic of a rather different type to what the OP probably has in mind.

Float = fixed length travel air spring
TALAS = 2 position travel, short or long (may also be 3 position on older forks)
RLC = Adjustment of rebound (R) and low speed compression (LC). There is also RC2 which is rebound, low and high speed compression
CTD= Climb, trail, descend adjustment of low speed compression to one of 3 settings (now (Firm, medium and open). You might also see “Trail adjust” which allows some further adjustment in the Trail mode.
FIT = closed damper cartridge (Fit Isolated Technology)

And remember there are some helpful vidoes on the Hope web site.

Cut a large patch from an old tube or tyre sidewall and stick on with superglue.

Nicely made Steve, thanks.

Having trouble getting it placed with a KS Lev. Lever is short, fat and has a long firm throw (especially for release), really needs rotating up a bit then it clashes with other stuff. Suspect the Thomson lever is more suited to it, will explore when that bike is back from having its rear end sorted.

Did they say what the issue is or was?

My 14X is in the dealer workstand for the second time. Apparently the bushing was fine the problem is with a slightly undersized bolt, Madison are sending a correct sized bolt to the LBS for fitting.

I assume your post is referring to settings in Viewranger. If so you could try doing it as a global setting on the phone. Go settings> display> when device is rotated and select “stay in portrait view”

Works for me on a Nexus 5 using Android 5.1.

I think there are positive comments on the other thread. For the avoidance of doubt I put the issue down as an annoyance rather than something major.

Aside from that the bike (mine is a 14X frame) is very well made and detailed. It rides superbly and is an absolute hoot. Climbs well (unlike me) and is quite at home heading down pretty much anything I have shown it from Cannock to BPW or the Lakes, Peak and Scotland.

Loco, that would be very helpful to know.

It would seem several of us have done as you suggest Loco, in some cases more than once and the problem recurs. Certainly in my case I was told all would be OK as I had the new correct sized bushes fitted but that hasn’t turned out to be correct.

My 14X frame, bought last September, had the problem after a month or so and had the bushes replaced. I have not ridden it much over the winter but a check at the weekend suggests the problem is back.

On flatting the tyre part of the tape may have slipped on the rim allowing air to escape as said above. Happened to me a few times.

If you are not in a real hurry keep an eye on this page over the next few weeks. Now the 2016 forks are on the way they will probably have the old (2015) demo stuff in the store. I got my 34’s there last May or June for about half price(ish) so you could get a good deal on some straight 36’s.

I just fitted 2015 36’s spaced down to 140mm on my BFe. They weigh in at 2kg and don’t seem heavy on the bike. Main reason for me going 36 was the straight steerer.

I have a 34 Talas on another bike it is a good fork and would have happily had another if it weren’t for the steerer. Not sure the weight saving over the 36 is much.

I have set up 1*10 with Hope 40t expander and Zee mech on a Cotic BFe. I run it with either a 30 or 32T chain ring. Needed the longer B bolt to get it working well if a little noisy in the 36 and 40T. Solved the chattering by putting the chain ring on the inside of the spider. That was in December last year and it has been fine since.