ive asked the garage and they say they havent had the repairs done so im guessing it was done before they got it.

So, playing devils advocate, they have no record or explanation of any (clearly obvious) work being done on it and will price to sell to push the problem onto you to demonstrate it was not fit for sale at some point in the future.

Is the previous owner still on the V5 – garages tend not to transfer ownership to them while they sell it. Ask to see it – give the previous owners a call. I’d still not be inclined to buy it (purely based on the content of these posts).

…in signs of recently being in a bodyshop, lots of dust and polish marks down the one side.

there was also a piece of laccuer the size of a 50p missing by the door handle.

so its obviuosly had a bit of a repair done.

thye have said that they will sort out the panel gap and the missing bit of laccuer for me and have also dropped the price from 9300 to 9000

Do you know why it’s been into the body shop/what was done (it would appear not from the flavour of the post). Get them to show you receipts for the repair/phone the body shop and confirm what was done – check out if the bodyshop is reputable or done on the cheap by friend-of-a-friend.

It might just be the wording of your post, but it sounds like the seller is very keen to get shot of it, by dropping the price AND sorting out additional repairs….. I’d be wary without further research.

You don’t want to know – trust me

….now I do know…. I wish I didn’t. Bloody hell…. 😯

He is pretty sure this was the problem but what I want to know is why the light only came on after 90 miles of it being reset ? Does the ECU work in cycles of time ?

From above post, this……

Mil lights don’t allways illuminate imediately. For a fault like yours, the ecu will monitor a number of drive cycles and evaluate info from various sensors before deciding something is outside parameters and putting the light on.

You’ll probably find that by the end of the week your lights back on (depending on miles/drive cycles done)

Much slower than a screw splitter and about the same price s/h, plus there’s basically nothing to go wrong with a screw splitter while hydraulic ones rely on many valves and seals to keep working.

You do need to replace the tips on the screw ones fairly regularly as they wear, and they are quite expensive. If you are just splitting cords, sized to the length you want, then yes, a screw splittter is fast….. we cut ~4ft lengths, split these with a hydraulic splitter, then stack up in a frame and make three chainsaw cuts through the stack to get ~1 ft lengths ready for stacking. Overall it’s alot faster with less handling.

we’re now thinking of buying a screw splitter between us to go on my tractor.

Get a hydraulic one if you have the tractor and associated plumbing already – you can pick them up on Ebay cheap as chips for what they are and the time they save.

So, do I stick around for the new role, or jump ship for mega money contracting?

FFS – make a decision – no-one here can do it for you! Life is about making decisions as best you can in order to keep moving forwards, and dealing with the consequences good or bad. If you don’t actively decide to take or pass on the contract role, which you say requires an answer today, but just let it slide by in favour of the status quo, then that’s pretty lame.

This is perhaps putting it bluntly, but you get the idea…. 😉

The Gruffalo – very faithful to the orginal text, though it did drag on a bit after a while 😉

The Road

Is the film any good – saw the trailer and thought it looks pants. Have deliberately avoided the film as the book is one of those that has stayed with me for ages after reading it….

TBH, I’ve not bother with loctite – the bolts are so big with so much engaged thread (relatively) that I can do them up, greased, murder tight and the thread won’t strip/bolt won’t break and they stay there completely untouched for years at a time. Up to you – either or, rather than nothing, I would say.

Not as highly loaded, but I’ve been running A4 stainless bolts in this application on my BB7 road calipers. They’ve been absolutely fine, and the bolts don’t corrode per se….. but do cover the threads liberally with grease/anti-seize as the aluminium caliper carrier does fur up at the bolt threads over time, I’m guessing from galvanic corrosion.

Nope – see here for a similar ‘not on your life’ Q+A session.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/shortening-cranks

Presume as you say ‘lowers’ they are sus forks, so the material will be even more exotic and all the problems descibed above will be increased several orders of magnitude.

Yes, it can be fixed (someone like Argos, amoungst other, would do it) – the question is, would it be economic? Time you’ve done the repair and a respray, I can’t see it being less than £200, depending on the material/quality of job/what refinishing you do.

Are you happy to ride it as it is and accept you may have to pay for a repair in the future, given how much it will ocst you now? Would it still be cheap factoring in the repair costs?

You need to be careful with the baking temp when powder coating alu. Get it too hot and it will affect the heat treating.

I’ve checked the temp and cure time and I believe all is well on that front.

Not one opinion?!?! Standards, people, standards 😉

Anyways, head says anodising, wallet says powdercoat! 😆

Early contender for thread of the day……

Frickin’ awesome that – just makes me sad I/no-one will get to see that live anymore 🙁

Who’d leave anything, even if nailed to the floor, on display in Barnwood.

FTFY 😉

So….. after much (yes, nearly 9 months!) faffing, I now have the bare frame ready for refinishing. Options on the table are:

– strip, blast, mask and powder coat in a single colour for ~£50
– strip, blast, polish and anodise in a single colour for ~ £150

The anodising cost isn’t as mad as I thought it would be (turnaroundis about a month compared to a week for the powdercoat though) and my head is nowing being turned in this direction. Should I just go cheap and cheerful with a powdercoat finish or go for the whole hog and get a lovely ano red finish (like the mid nineties Zaskar’s) – or is just polishing a proverbial as it is ‘only’ my summer commute/road training bike?

What Cynic-al said. Do not contact the bus co at all. They will always take the side of the driver.

Not always – but it helps that MD is also a cyclist in this case 😉

http://www.thisisbristol.co.uk/Road-rage-bus-driver-hit-cyclist-Bristol/story-14332449-detail/story.html

That’s running 32:22. Dropping to 30:22 or 32:24 seems to be against Shimanos recommendations.

I thought 2:1 was their recommend limit…. in which case 32:22 is already below that?

That would require quite a bit of investment from First …

which isn’t going to happen. They’re too busy making a packet out of the lack of competition in Bristol.

Having trialed the system last year I believe First is introducing smart cards on all bus routes from March (IIRC). Obviously won’t be as integrated/embedded as the Oyster card system is to London, but it’s a start. Drifting off topic a bit, I know……

Does sound like an alternator charging issue – may just be in the alternator electrics which an auto electrics place should be abale to diagnose and replace/repair for much less than a complete reconditioned alternator (or they can confirm if the whole unit needs replacing). Luckily, have such a place round the corner from work and they have saved me loads over the years…..

Bookmarks that page for future tinkering……..

You are right but I want a decent guitar to learn on and there are some truly classic guitars on ebay price realistically and a load of absolute biffers described a classic/never gigged/as new accompanied by either no photos or stock photos from an online shop priced to attract the people likes bees round a honey pot and end up disappointed having taken a punt after spending more money than they were happily prepared to lose.

FTFY

I prefer logic and reason based analysis techniques, anyone who places themselves in a vulnerable possition when they do not need to, or who does not limit risks as much as they possibly can, will sooner or later get thier fingers burnt

Is this statement of your preferred approach not completely at odds with buying a guitar unseen/unplayed from a bloke you’ve never met over the internet, and somewhat ironic given the result??? 😕

Fair enough – we both came to that thread late, but my sentiment still stands.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/guitarists-newbie-help-please

I know this is going to sound like a smart-ar$e ‘…I told you so…’ comment, but I did think at the time on your guitar thread that you were COMPLETLY CHUFFING NUTS buying a guitar unseen, let alone from Ebay. I’ve bought a couple off Ebay and have gone to see/play it before buying and have simply walked away from well over half of the ones I’ve looked at as they are clearly not as described because a) the seller doesn’t really know enough to describe it properly or b) is clearly trying it on.

Nope…

binners – no a dhb jobby. Agree though – it was spot-on with just a light weight long sleeve base layer underneath.

Yep, yesterday and today zero or -1 “only”. First time it’s been cold enough to use a soft-shell jacket that I picked up in last summers sale without boiling up!

On road – thinking about this last night, what cog and sprocket are you using? Installation sheet says not to go below a drive ratio of 2:1.

For balance, my 11-spd has been fine. Half way between it’s first and second service, so 3500k on the clock….. but I know others have had problems

<sacrifices another virgin for continued reliability>

Not read all that, obviously, but back to the OP’s Q….

Many moons ago I went through the back window of a stationary car while cycling (front mech problem…. looking down…. looking down…. through rear window of car…. sh!t that hurts….). Clearly my fault, parents house insurance covered it no issues – most policies have a 3rd party cover included for just this kind of thing.

Check the cable run is smooth and the yellow dots are lined up in 6th.

After that, it could need a trip back to Madison via your retailer. A search on here is your friend……

Doing something similar-ish for my parents – as mentioned above, I agree that it looks a little oversized but do not underestimate wind loads!

I have gone to town a bit on the design calcs for them (because I can), working out the wind loads to BS6399 and Eurocode and assessing this against the design strength of the timber, foundations and fixtures (their site is on top of a hill, with minimal scope of vertical posts and adjacent to other building, so the ‘blocking’ out of the wind out from under the canopy is quite high) and the effects of the wind loading is dominating the selection of the section sizes….

Must be you – my agree/disagree ratio is about the same I’d say….. but experience has given me a better eye for which threads will kick-off, eventually spiralling over an event-horizon of rage so I just tend to post less 😉

I think a lot of mtbers don’t realise just how distracting their off-road lights are. I commute on a cycle path, and if someone is coming the other way with an off-road light, I am completely blinded until they’ve gone past.

This. If the path is along side a busy road and you are riding along it in the direction opposite to the traffic flow, it’s difficult to work out what is a car/a bike/where the edge of the path is/etc. This combined with the occasional DIY or ‘over-clocked’ electric bike steaming along at warp speed and there are a few sections on my regular route that I am considering avoiding until the sun comes up.

Yebbut…. how much of that aviation technology has bled over into sport and how much of it is used to make our bikes stronger, lighter and easier to ride?

No idea what you’re talking about….. 😉

We use two RB-211 cores in the navy’s Type 45 destroyers. We use them in WR21 engines with alternators on the end to make 21MW each. Rather than just suck-squeeze-bang-blow we’ve got an intercooler to cool the compressed air and a recuperator (exhaust heat exchanger) to recycle some waste heat.

If they’d only waited a bit they could have had the new 44MW ‘RB-211’ IGT for some real poke (actually a cut down Trent, but it seems the power generation market is happier buying into the RB-211 name rather than the new fangled Trent). Working on the first RB211-H63 onshore powergen sets as I type this…..

Here is his demo case which shows the 4 stages of single crystal turbine blade production from the ceramic moulds for the cooling holes on the right, to the wax mould for the blade itself which is then ‘feather and tarred’ with ceramic before the wax is melted away to leave a mould for the molten metal to be poured into and some clever crystal jiggery pokery takes place. It’s then dipped in hot acid to melt the ceramic and leave the raw blade behind and finally machined.

There is a cut-away of a Pegasus engine in the new M-Shed museum in Bristol with some video/commentatory of the process. Not a patch on the old industrial musem with room-fulls of giant radial engines and an a cut-away/’real life exploded view’ Olympus that you could walk around.

OK – I think I’m going the way of the Hope – so I’ll pass. Ta.

Go on then – name your price and I’ll have a think, but I think the Hope one may be on the cards 😉