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Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 168 total)
  • Issue 157 – Norway Hans Rey
  • blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Do you mean spacers for the bottom bracket?

    If so. 1 on the drive side as the bottom bracket shell is 73mm.

    The older Souls had issues with chainring clearance on the double chainset. I’m sure that has been improved for the mk 3.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    80 kgs, I think I use somewhere between 160 and 165psi.

    Just shy of 30% sag seems to be the charm for me. Around 25% feels too harsh for me due to the ramp up of the suspension design.

    I think your figure is correct and your friend has a faulty pressure gauge or is wearing lead underwear…

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    That photo of the bent Ashima disk illustrates it well. You can see where a spoke, in the horizontal orientation, has been unable to support the bending moment imparted by the rotor surface.

    It has buckled and allowed the rotor surface to collapse.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Al,

    I’ll try and explain for fun…

    It doesn’t have as much to do with tension and compression as you’d think. With a disc one side is always in compression, the other in tension, under braking.

    Look at the first (correct) and second (incorrect) photos in this thread. Now imagine the disk caliper at the 3 o’clock position. The side of the disc above the caliper is in tension, below in compression.

    Now look at the orientation of the spokes of the disc.

    In the first picture the spokes on the tension side of the disc are pretty much vertical and taking all the force down their length. (Nice and strong and stable from a buckling perspective)

    In the second picture they are almost horizontal. The tension force is acting across the spoke is incorrectly oriented to stop the top of the disc collapsing and buckling.

    That’s why there is a difference in orientation.

    Perhaps someone could elaborate on my explanation if it is unclear.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    I’ll just leave this here Thread

    But you should probably heed the comments above!

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    ninenailspete – Member
    Sorry to revive this, but does anyone know if the wheels are tubeless from the start, or do you need to tape them yourself?
    On the Pro they come with tubes in, and valves in the box.

    And on the Comps, the E13 wheels are taped and ready but come with tubes and no valves.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    You are a gentleman,

    That is exactly the sort of route I was looking for. Hopefully it doesn’t rain/ ming it on Sunday 🙂

    Ta very much

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    I have no answer for you and I’ve never had a heart attack so I can’t really relate.

    If I were in your position I would be asking myself how I felt about experiencing another heart attack. Y’know balancing up life without sport vs. family worries etc.

    I personally would find it nearly impossible to live without strenuous exercise but then I also understand why my Mrs would be worried about me crocking it.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Cool.

    I’m 78kg and running 28mm tyres for the winter, 75-80psi rear, 65psi front is perfect.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Some thoughts for you:

    1./ I’ve had mine for 7 or 8 months and I think they are great. Especially since I got mine for £240 from Freeborn.

    2./ According to this review road.cc the rims are custom made for Kinesis by WTB and the hubs are Kinesis own

    3./ The same review claims to have run 23mm tyres – so I assume pressure in the range of 100 – 120 psi. Possibly more? I have run 25mm and 28mm tyres. All I know is that tyres are very tight going on. I Normally have to use soap to get the bead to seat evenly so I am definitely not worried about them coming off.

    4./ Check your spoke tensions for the first 500 miles! My rear wheel had an almost catastrophic loss of tension on the non-drive side. Luckily I caught it before pain ensued but I have no idea how badly I have stressed the spokes. To resurrect it I completely detensioned and rebuilt to a max spoke tension of 120kgf. It has been fine for the 300 miles or so since.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Earliest you will be able to get a Capra is June at the moment, I think.

    Rocket would be later, so not that bad in that respect.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    God! Especially not with people who might be faster than me!! 😀

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    5’8″ here.

    Was worried about the 6″ Reverb going low enough in the medium frame.

    I have a 30.5″ inside leg. Reverb is at its lowest, in a medium frame, the saddle height is perfect for me on flats. Would have to raise the seatpost slightly if I wore clips.

    Would not want the reach of the bike to be any shorter. The extra room to move your body around on the bike is worth it.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    You need a new Air Spring Shaft if you want to change the travel on Pikes.

    Good news is that they only cost about £30. So buy a 160mm fork and drop it to 150mm with a new part, if you don’t get on with it at 160mm.

    Edit: PS I DIDN’T link the precise part you need to buy. Just an example of what it is. The one I linked is for a 29er Pike fork. (Couldn’t find the 650b example in a 2 minute search)

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    boblo – Member
    The only issue I had was the front was deflecting the wheel slightly under heavy braking which I sorted by going back to square one and starting again.

    Can you elaborate at all?

    I have found that I got a lot of wheel deflection recently with my Spyres. I tightened everything at the hub assembly up and have the skewer done up very well. Didn’t expect it to be the setup of the brake causing the problem.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    4 year warranty on the full frame is well above the industry average though. Free shipping back to base as well.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Depends on the frame you fit it too to a certain extent. It has the same performance as a monarch shock but different characteristics.

    It gives you a more linear spring curve. On some bikes that will give you increased sensitivity and traction whereas others it is overkill and will make the bike feel soft and wallowy.

    What bike are you thinking of? If you want to reduce the progression of the suspension then it could be good. It won’t be ‘better’ though, just different.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Yup. Small 2011 soul in orange.

    I’m looking to sell too, if you were interested.

    Stockbridge based. You are welcome to it for a day.

    My email is wvedwards at gmail dot com

    Cheers, Bill

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Difficult to see the depth of the chip from the photos.

    I suspect the chip would be under the clamping surface of the stem so not directly subjected to bending moments plus its only the resin. Its the carbon mesh that gives the strength.

    If concerned, you have the original photos, so check periodically to ensure it isn’t deteriorating?

    Carbon won’t fail catastrofically without giving you warning if it is due to cyclical loading rather than one big impact so I wouldn’t be freaking out personally.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Big video playback issues with 5.0 on the Nexus 7.

    You might want to hold off updating for a while. I updated by sideloading from my computer and I can no longer use YouTube. iPlayer and the like still work.

    Some people are reporting further issues with video recording et al.

    Be careful out there.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Meh, even the currant XX calliper is alu. So I therefore have no idea what SRAM are on about. As usual…

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Is it not because the XX calliper body is made from magnesium?

    It won’t like the higher temperatures that using a sintered pad will produce. Not sure if it’s a real issue or over cautiousness on SRAMs part.

    The XO caliper is aluminium so shouldn’t be a problem until 700 C

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Pics when you get it!

    For the money they are a hell of a bike. I know a couple of people who are very satisfied with theirs.

    Enjoy 🙂

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Just seen the geometry numbers.

    16 inch is effectively their small with a reach of 411mm
    18 inch is their medium with a reach of 429mm and the real seat tube length is only 400mm (so really 15.75 inch)

    Based on that I would say definitely the 18inch as well.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Look on the bright side. No matter which you choose, you are unlikely to feel it is badly the wrong fit!

    I agree 100% with what honourablegeorge wrote.

    The only thing to try to establish before thinking about the 18″ frame is whether you can drop the dropper low enough to accomodate your relatively short inside leg measurement.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    kimbers – Member
    about 20-25%

    also got 2 tokens in there

    +1

    My bike felt like a water bed when I first rode it! Now with 25% sag + 2 tokens & 1/2 low speed compression on I get small bump sensitivity and control thoughout the travel. Great Success!

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    jekkyl – Member 
    go and see your doc, you don’t have to pay or nuffin, he’ll get to the bottom of your problem.

    You just have to hope that in this case he doesn’t give you the big thumbs up! 😕

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    The Capra comes in a large as its biggest size and it is anything but a large large, if you get what I mean.

    I can’t see it fitting anyone over 6’2″ at all, I’m afraid.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    milky1980 – Member
    So Brown started well, then got a bit carried away and realised the mistakes he’d made so started to get things in the right direction again. Along comes Darling and things start to go completely haywire. Was this due to:

    A: his incompetence?
    B: pressure from Brown to win votes with pay rises and other schemes that were financial suicide?

    Actually quite impressed that Osbourne seems to have cut the deficit by about a third!

    Remember, however, Gordon Brown sold 60% of the UK’s gold reserve between 1999 & 2002. At knock down prices as well!

    I would be gobsmacked if he had racked up a budget deficit as well. There was then probably significant pressure placed upon Darling to maintain spending at a similar level once Gordon had moved to number 10. Thing is Darling borrowed to do so 🙁

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    If you have a deficit then it implies that your debt is increasing.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Yes. But they haven’t reduced it by as much as they originally planned to. The current forecast doesn’t show it being eliminated until 2018.

    BBC Summary

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Thing is, after some of the cases I’ve seen in practice, I would be terrified of getting back on the same bike.

    I would pretty much want a brand new frame, fork, bars and crankset. The thought of going back out on a bike that has taken such a hard landing and then hitting a 40ft drop makes me shudder.

    We’ve all seen instantaneous headtube disengagements on relatively innocuous jumps and they look sore as. Imagine what it would be like at Rampage!

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Seem normal to me they come to the top strap of my knee pads. Medium shorts, 5’8″ & 30″ leg.

    Great shorts IMO. Mine have worn very well over the summer.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    110 amps is the vddc current. That is the current supplied to the GPU itself. And it is being supplied at 1.148 volts, so the reported power consumption of the GPU core will be P = VI, or 126 watts. Not unreasonable for that GPU.

    PSU should be fine for virtually any single card system, although you don’t specify what the rest of the components the system is running.

    It sounds like the card is throttling to self protect although it’s unlikely to be the core temperature that is the problem. Could be the vrms or something else.

    Check the windows event logs for graphics related errors. Try a different version driver.

    If you think the problem is heat related then take the side off your case and blow air in with a large desk fan. If the time before throttling increases, then you have a heat related issue. If not I’d guess overcurrent protection but may very well be wrong.

    Pretty sure a thread like this came up on the anandtech forum a while back. I browsed it but don’t have the card so didn’t really pay great attention.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Try it, but the seals react to the oil and swell so I would bet that its probably goosed. Sorry

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    Yep, same here. If I push it in the first 30 mins I am hosed for the day. 32 in November.

    Couple that with the fact that I can barely ride a bike for the first 30 mins as well. My timing and balance just doesn’t reach its best for a while.

    The somewhat ‘technical’ climb that starts the Innerleithen Red XC route has literally nearly had me in tears before. If I come back for a second lap I can normally ride up without a dab!?! What’s that all about???

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    The blades have a aerofoil profile, just like an aeroplane wing. They turn the rotor because of the lift they generate not because they are pushed out of the way by the wind (that would be a panamane).

    When you furl the blades you turn them into the wind to the point where the flow over them stalls, again just like an aeroplane wing would. That partial or total loss of lift causes them to rotate the rotor more slowly or stop all together.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    I ordered my Capra after trying to buy a Saracen Ariel.

    In about March I decided I wanted to test and buy a Ariel 152. Nope – all sold out and none arriving till about this time of year.

    OK I thought, there is still the Ariel 151 which doesn’t really have the setup I would most like but it will be good enough. I also save £700 in the bargain. But then the Saracen Ariel does have a longer than I am used to top tube so I better try a medium frame for sizing…

    I phoned 2 bike shops in Edinburgh to see if they could get one in for me. Neither would without taking a 10% non-refundable deposit – That’s £270 btw.

    At that point I thought Capra. I was familiar with the frame numbers and I liked the components that it came with, so I took the risk. Turns out that my judgement on sizing was spot on so far as I can tell.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    OK, real quick post from me with a few comments – I need to grab some dinner.

    The revised hanger has a larger lip on it that the b-tension screw butts against. I have fitted the hanger with copious thread-lock and tightened it to the recommended torque of 12nm.

    The new hanger does not fix the issue the guys over at Pinkbike are a posting about. I won’t go into it without posting some pics. Their issue could be a problem for anyone with the seat stays that currently come on the bike. However, with care it shouldn’t be. The crack that has appeared may not even be an issue in itself.

    The medium size bike is exactly the size I was expecting. It is definitely not a long bike but fits me, at 5′ 8″ with a 30″ (and a tiny bit) inside leg, perfectly.

    The one thing that I am extremely happy about is that the 6″ Reverb post sit into the frame just far enough for me not to require swapping for a 5″ post. I would say that I will probably ride the bike without any changes for a good while.

    I would say that if you are 5′ 10″ with say maybe a 32″ inside leg then you are pretty lucky. Both medium and large will fit you fine. You get to choose if you prefer a standard length bike – medium – or if you prefer a longer bike (like the Kona process) go for a large.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    I posted my comments on sizing earlier in the thread. I’ll get back to you on if I think I got it right shortly 🙂

Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 168 total)