Not this year.

3 years of a team of 4 and last 2 years solo. Fancy a break and trying something different, possibly coming back next year!

Most of the guys who I ride with have been “meh” this year rather than “yeah!” so all out……

Last few years have had between 25-30 of us there!

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Andy

Did the hose change improve things as suggested on the other thread?

Cheers

Initial impressions after a quick shakedown ride are yes! Planning to get out on the bike for a proper test this weekend but in the stand and on that quick ride the that brakes seem sharper and firmer.

Followed that thread to the letter – started with new hoses then bled as per the instructions in the thread, and much happier.

Will report back again with a proper post-ride opinion, but well worth the £20 quid I paid. A 1000mm front hose and rear 1700mm hose was long enough for my Diverge. I got the “LX” hose from CRC – just make sure you get the straight/straight connector hoses if you have the 685 caliper.

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So – finally got round to doing the hood replacement. Massive improvement! Not baggy at all now.

But if a faff – bit was changing brake hoses to the BH90 hoses following suggestions on another thread on here about brake feel here:

improving brake feel

Process I did was:

Unwrap bar tape.
Remove old hoses and cables.
Remove shifters from bars.
Remove old hoods by pulling them backwards.
Slide new hoods over hoses/cables (but not onto shifters yet)
Mount shifters on bars (temporarily)
Bleed
Remove shifters from bars
Slide hoods in place
Refit shifters to bars
Retape bars

Have a beer!

All in took about an hour and a half, but as I wanted to change hoses and bar tape seemed to be worth it!

Cheers,

A

TRP Hylex:

Hylex

About £100 an end if I remember right…..

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Going to rewrap my bar tape (hopefully this weekend – if kids don’t take up all the weekend….. ) so plan is to replace hoods at same time.

Plans is to:
Uncouple hoses
Slide new hoods over hose (not onto lever though)
Reconnect hoses and rebleed
Slide new hoods in place
Rewrap tape

Sounds like a faff, but since I’ve got the new hoods waiting seemed like a good idea for a wet weekend…..

Will keep thread updated!

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I’ve got some spare ones in the garage.

My mail is in profile – drop me your address and a couple of quid in a cancer charity pot and I’ll get one in the post for you.

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STATO – perfect!!

Offset mount looks perfect!

Stato – my bad! Forgot to put that in the op – I blame the kids…..

Any links to the Instagram pic you mention??

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Garmin is mounted on a k-edge mount under the topcap so that won’t work.

Yup – seen the cheap eBay mounts, but mounting is for a light with a GoPro mount – not a GoPro itself, so that would still leave it offset.

Strange as it may seem but want something that puts the light dead central over the stem/bar centre.

Might have to modify another mount to fit a GoPro interface to it.

For good schools look at Merley and Wimborne catchment.

Not so great in creekmoor/canford Heath – and avoid parkstone schools….

Job at winfrith – Atlas?

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I’ve lived this way forever……originally Bournemouth growing up, then Wimborne and Merley.

Live in Merley at the mo – 2 mins from Wimborne, 15 mins from Poole and 20 mins tops to Bournemouth.

Agree – nice areas are Wimborne/Merley/Broadstone and Corfe Mullen.

Riding can be good at puddletown forest – 30 mins ish from Wimborne, but heading out Weymouth way so you could grab some cheeky trails on the way home!

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In a similar vein to the alpinestars vest:

Race Face stash tank.

here

Ive got one for local stuff – does what I want it too…….

I’ve got a similar set-up but within XT shifters – I carefully filed away some of the I-spec mount to get the reverb remote flush with the clamp. I haven’t got any pictures, but there was an MTBR thread I followed / I’ll try and find the link……

I used one on a 2005/2006 specialized big hit to run it double up front (although frame also had a threaded mount to help secure the front mech for an e-type)

Worked ok with no issues for me.

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Yup – saw that earlier.

Waiting to update when I get home to check it out.

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Yup – latest 2.6 firmware

I wouldn’t say it’s compete sh1te as a HR monitor – my wife is a community nurse and I’ve cross checked it against some of her equipment (pulseoximetry meter) and it was within a couple of BPM across a range of activity, so I’m ok with it……

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For balance – I’ve had one since start of December to replace a Fitbit (solely so I can broadcast HR and connect to my 810) and it’s been faultless.

No issues with HR recording – although the HR graph is very blocky in the connect app as it’s sampling rate/resolution is less than I was used to with the Fitbit app, but nothing too worrisome!

Connectivity with edge 810 and my ANT+ dongle for sufferfest and zwift has been fine.

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EDIT – too slow!

Frame is post mount!

I’ve gone post mount RS-685 – although you “could” put flat mount calipers on with an adaptor (to future proof if you swapped frames down the line to a flat mount std and didn’t want new calipers) although, the flat mount shimano calipers are gopping…….

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Hmmm, had seen the RFLKT+, but thought I’d be able to do the same with the Wahoo ANT+ key (Google seems to think it’ll work) and a lightning adapter – and by extension, I thought the Garmin ANT+ for iPhone is the same principle?

Don’t really want to spend out on the RFLKT if I can help it……

Nope – no flex issues here either.

Was a bit worried coming from bolt-through MTB stuff, that it wouldn’t be enough, but no issues and worries gone now!

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Oh yeah – my bad!

Blonde moment – sorry!

Looks like merlin deal is the one to go for…..

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boom!

Ordered mine from them – paid PayPal, ordered Sunday, arrived at work on Wednesday!

Exchange rate works out about 226 quid plus postage

EDIT – if you select England it includes postage – goes up to about 312 euros, or 228 quid ish

Happy days!

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As above – got plug and play V2’s on my diverge. Had V1’s, they are now on wife’s bike.

Got V1s from LBS and V2’s from Stonehenge cycles in Salisbury.

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Yup – rear needed a +20 mount. Think from memory it’s designed as a front 180PM mount (so for front 160 to go to 180)

Had a spare one kicking round in the garage.

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Nope. Went 160/160

I’m loving mine – been awesome so far. Spent more time on it than either of the MTBs in 2015!

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Ha ha – I put a CG-R on mine aswell – LBS had a new but removed from bike one as the person buying the other bike thought it was too ugly……..hell, at the price I paid for I can abide the looks! Seems to work fine though!

Nope, no issues at all – really easy, apart from peeling the hoods back to bleed them has left the hoods a bit baggy – there’s a thread about them:

here

Nope – sold original rotors with the spyres and bunged on some 160mm shimano RT-76 ones. No issues with heat/fade or squealing/noise with them, so glad I didn’t pay the extra for ice-tech ones.

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Yup – I have!

Bought a blue/black base model A1 2015. Stripped it as soon as I got home, as put the Claris group set on a mint Allez frame a mate had ( – he paid mates rates for the groupset), then bunged on a full 11spd 105 5800 groupset.

Picked up a set of RS685’s from the Germans for a silly cheap price a few weeks later, so sold the 5800 sti’s and spyres on eBay – for nearly what the 685s cost me, then a few weeks later got some kinesis CX disc V3 wheels to upgrade from the stock Axis wheels.

All in has cost me less than the sora build diverge – people were paying silly money for kit on eBay!

Dead chuffed with the build and have done a load of miles on it in 2015, a good few 100k rides and a couple of 100milers too.

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I love mine!!

Running 1×10, plan to go 1×11 when stuff wears out, and planning some 130 pikes for it (funds been a bit tight this year!)

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Thanks! Although I printed that off when I got the brakes/shifters, I only read as far as the bleeding instructions…….

Looks like I can put up with the “loose” hoods as I can’t be bothered stripping it all back down/disconnecting cables and hoses!!

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Apologies for delay!

I tried to simply roll the old hoods forwards off the STIs towards the front of the bike and over the lever (so I could swap without removing the levers etc) and it wouldn’t go without a load of brute force – so I stopped as didn’t want to stretch the hoods any further or tear them. The lump with the reservoir seems to be the main problem from what I could see.

I’ve got new hoods waiting, but will probably wait until I bung some new bar tape on and have the levers off before I try again.

EDIT – I might try again with some alcohol hand gel (that’s what I use to fit ESI grips with) as a lubricant to help the old hoods off once more before removing the levers. Will report back again!

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They arrived on the weekend (great service from SJS as usual), but riding on Saturday got in the way and Christmas prep/work/toddlers have meant I’ve not ventured into the garage yet……

Hopefully will get it done in before Christmas Day – will report back!

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EDIT – double post

Hmmmm, maybe!

Mine mainly got baggy peeling back for bleeding – so will think about what I can do to fix that……

I actually bothered to google rs685 hoods on the back of this thread – have just ordered some from SJS cycles and will report back once they arrive and I’ve fitted them!

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Same as mboy and iainc above:

Hoods nice and snug when getting them out the box – peeled back to fit to bike and tape bars post fitment – hoods seem slack and don’t fit back that well.

Bit disappointed but no real biggy (performance on brakes outdoes my disappointment of the hoods) – will probably get some replacements when I can find them seperately/be bothered……

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Ooofffff!

I like those in the first pic!!!

Scurries off to amend Christmas list…….

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No worries.

Email in profile if you want any advice or for me to ping some pics across etc.

Ali diverge owner here. V2 guards fitted.

Drilled out the rivets holding the L shaped bracket on the front. Star fangled nut in steerer – had to bend lugs in a bit to get SFN started in steerer due to size of steerer at base/crown. Had to make a spacer to go between SFN and guard to get height right. (About 18mm from memory) – just used some metal tubing from work.

Rear guard fitted fine – very close to seat tube, stuck a small foam pad between guard and seat tube to prevent fretting/rubbing. Took time to get stays set to right length by slowly cutting them down to get guard even all way round the wheel.

Not plug and play (initially!) but very quick to remove and refit once you’ve got them set up first time round and they do look clean.

Used some stainless grub screws from work – plenty of good ones on eBay tho!

Hope that helps – happy to answer further questions!

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Hmmm, I didn’t see that advice when I got mine.

I ran 100psi (sometimes over) on 30mm and 28mm tyres with no ill effects……

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For skewers – staple and reliable choice:

Shimano XT

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I “nearly” went for Hope Pro 2’s on stan’s grails, but decided to go with the kinesis wheels due to cost.

I’ve managed to get them to work tubeless with stan’s tape and valves and Schwalbe ones.

Looks like the v4s are even better – thru axle compatible, XD driver and tubeless ready. Looks like a good future-proof option!

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