The new Aluminium Scandal 29er from on one / planet x

@PaperLawyer

The difference is approx 4cm which is the worst I’ve personally experienced

That could be down to the broken spokes. I’d like to think it wasn’t like that when it left planet x but I also wouldn’t be surprised if it was.

The scandal is a great bike. I was out on mine again today. Its my winter bike that manages to get used all year round.

Took mine for its maiden voyage. Very pleased (especially as I snagged the extra 10% discount thanks to @damascus)… I haven’t tried anything bigger than 26″ wheels before!

Gear hanger is fine and no paint chips on delivery but the wheel build is shocking. Insufficient tension on both wheels, and the front is about 5mm off laterally… dunno why I’m surprised as I had to retension the wheels on my Pompino too. Sounds like regreasing the headset is my takeaway top tip, ta!

Any recommendations for decent tyres for Peak riding? The Vittorias it came with are a bit scary in the wet!

Insufficient tension on both wheels, and the front is about 5mm off laterally…

Lol, OK, maybe it did leave planet x like that.

@mcbyker

Im currently running 29er flow ex mk3 rims with schwalbe nobby nics 2.6 front and back. They actually come up at 2.52 and I think you would get away with 2.8s in the back.

The spokes aren’t broken – I was cautious enough to stop before any damage was done.

Any recommendations for decent tyres for Peak riding? The Vittorias it came with are a bit scary in the wet!

Scotland, so rocks and mud and roots 🙂

Magic Mary front, Minion SS rear.

I had slack/wobbly wheels on my Dog. Absent quality control

Had my first ride today. Exactly what I wanted for a Winter hardtail. I fitted a 2.6 WTB Trail Boss tyre on the rear and a 2.6 Bontrager SE5 on the front. Worked pretty well in the mud. Very comfy bike to ride. I might stick a wider bar on, but only because I’ve got one spare.

The scandal is currently in offer at £999. Not quite as good as last time but not bad considering the covid tax and its in stock!

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBOOSCGX/on-one-scandal-sram-gx-mountain-bike?utm_source=The+Planet+X+and+On-One+Mailing+List&utm_campaign=315b6afeef-041220adventcalendar-day-4&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_561486488b-315b6afeef-271210457&mc_cid=315b6afeef&mc_eid=ade4b0dbd1

The scandal is currently in offer at £999. Not quite as good as last time but not bad considering the covid tax and its in stock!

I’m actually looking at buying one at that price as my son just inherited my old Pact Ti bike and I don’t have a mountainbike anymore.

Might pull the trigger.

I left Px a year ago 😂

I’m sure I’ve read discussions here about the rear rotor size but my searches are drawing a blank. My understanding is it can fit 180mm but not with a hope style adaptor (eg it has to be one that the caliper bolts directly to the frame with – 2 bolts rather than 4). The thing I like about the hope adaptors is you fit them and don’t touch them for ages, you don’t have to tighten/untighten them umpteen times when aligning the caliper then again whenever the brakes come off the bike. Also the threads seem less made of cheese and if you do bugger them you can just buy a new adaptor. It looks like if you did make a mess of the brake mount on the scandal frame it would be nigh on impossible to do a helicoil repair due to the seat stay.

The obvious solution to all the above concerns is “don’t be a crap hamfisted mechanic and there won’t be a problem”. But any suggestions on how best to do that? I’m thinking:
– make sure thread is as clean as possible
– use loctite
– use as long a bolt as I can get away with into the mount to make sure as many threads engage as possible
– make sure I’m not cross threading as I go in
– DON’T OVER TORQUE
– Get the caliper set up properly first time and LEAVE IT ALONE!

I wouldn’t worry, plenty of bike parts are made of aluminium and don’t have issues being tightened/loosened relatively frequently, like a stem.

It’s more of an issue in a fork where it’s magnesium which is much softer.

I wouldn’t use loctite. Difficult to get much purchase on the rear bolt when you need to undo it.
No idea why you’re worrying. PX need to sack at least one of their wheel builders though. Or let them go back to primary school. Could then use Sonder’s……

Ok yeah I’m thinking of experiences of post mount forks (or one really) forgetting that they’re a magnesium alloy. Ignore me!

Still wish I could fit a hope 160 to 180 in there mind!

Back with another build question! cable routing, what’s the consensus on which cables enter/exit from which holes? I guess it doesn’t really matter but I’d like to do it neatly first time!

I’m thinking…

Head tube end:
NDS | DS
Double port with insert: | Single port:
Rear brake/Shifter | Dropper

Bottom Bracket end:
NDS | DS
Single port: | Double port with insert:
Rear brake | rear mech, dropper

Also, does anyone have any tips on which sequence is easiest to do them in (or any routing tips in general)?

Er I just used common sense as it was intuitively blatantly obvious.

oh right, fair enough!

I’ve seen different approaches in peoples pics and there was a bit of discussion about this on P23. Should I have the rear brake and dropper lever (LHS bar controls) going into the double port on the LHS of the downtube is it prefereable to have them entering the oppoisite side of the downtube?

Inuitively I thought you’d be better off putting the LHS controls into the RHS of the downtube so you could have some slack and the cables/hoses wouldn’t be being pressend onto the frame. But the frame doesn’t seem set up for this because the double port is on the LHS.

From experience I’ll route stuff trying to do what seems obvious at the time and then find some cable rub pops up that I realise I could maybe have avoided with alternate routing. Granted it’s a bike for riding so should I care I suppose you could argue?

Bump, any thoughts on my pontifications?

(Other than: yeah, shut-up and build the effing thing)

@Mat,
Mine came from P-X with the gear cable entering on the right and the rear (left hand) brake in the lower of the two holes on the left. Seems to work fine.

Presumably, if you have both dropper and rear (left hand) brake in the left port you can tape/tie/shrink wrap them together from the bars to the port to limit flapping and noise.

Thanks @mcbyker! That’s handy to know!

Seriously contemplating a scandal amongst a few other hardtails, things have changed a bit since my last mtb purchase 10 years ago thats for sure!

Just a quick sizing question, im 5’10, 32″ inside leg, Saddle height is 730mm bb to saddle, torn between medium and large? Swaying towards the large otherwise i think I’ll be looking at a 170-200mm dropper i think?

Could anyone shed a bit of light? Cheers!

As mine is in the dining room!

I have a medium and it is roughly 74cm to the rails. 78 to the top of the saddle.

With the 400mm post I have 1cm of leeway. I put a 150mm brandX dropper on and there is plenty more.

It feels right. I have come from a medium Parkwood which was a little shorter but had a longer seat tube.

I’m about the same height as you and leggy which often makes bike sizing tricky. I probably could have gone for a large as well but it was only the short seat tube that made me doubt the medium. I would have been interested to sit on both but it wasn’t an option. Knowing I was happy with my Parkwood for both XC and trail centre fun I went with what I knew.

Much appreciated, its so difficult without actually trying for size, I have an old and rare Charge cleaver to try and compare to, but its 26″ and I cant find any geo charts for it! Measured roughly with a tape but still undecided…. dont you feel the seatube is like bmx small at 5’10 on the medium? I assume it looks a bit odd with a maxed out 400mm post?

Brant who designed the bike said that he designed it as a small, medium and large. PX then added a XL.

Based on this I’d suggest a medium.

I’m mostly leg with a short body so I’m used to having bikes with loads of seat post showing. On the road I tend to go for a 54/55 frame and a normal stem and a lot of seat post. I once had a 56 which would be my recommended size but ended up with a 90mm stem which made the handling weird.

I could have got the same position on the large in that I could run a 35 or 40mm stem to compensate for the longer reach and ETT. I went off my Parkwood though which is closer to modern geometry just a bit shorter.

I was also looking at things like the Vitus Sentier, Sonder Signal and Canyon Grand 9. Their recommended reach/ETT suggested that planet x had recommended everyone size up. That and if you dig back through this thread Brant suggests the sizing is off and you should size down if on the border between two.

Set up for me.

I would agree with Damascus. I just got a large and am 6ft 1 ish. The large is quite a big bike, I would guess a medium would not be too small for me either

ok perfect thanks! Best get one ordered now!

For those buying complete bikes, did everyone elses also come with overly long brake hoses – like the original hoses that the brakes came with were just fitted and not fitted to length?

Mine need bleeding now anyway so I’ll tidy them up, but I’m just curious

I expect that planet x just fitted what they had. A cross between lack of stock and time and money to change it.

I’m 6ft3 and in an XL frame but I think I might get away with a large. Normally large are always too small but the XL is a big frame!

I reckon if your inbetween you size down

I’m also 6’3″ and have an XL its huge, go for a Large

Regarding the brake lines.
My front us way too long.
Rear not so bsd.
Bit spongy, some air in the lines.

What saddles are people using as replacement for the stock plank, it’s horrific??

My brake lines are longer than I would make them but look to have been shortened.

I’ll probably cut them if they ever need bleeding. I’d have prescribed measurements if I was doing a lot of brake builds. But, maybe the guys at planet X are just doing it each time so you get variation?

Bleed on mine is fine.

I’m probably going to take the fabric spoon off my old mountain bike and put the scandal one on there to sell.

I’m on a large, 35mm stem, 5.11 and long of arm and it feels bang on for me. If I was leggy with a short torso perhaps medium would’ve been a good fit. I don’t feel stretched out and my crap manuals are still crap manuals etc.

Just under 6″3″ and 34 leg on a large.

Wow, after reading the last few pages in here I thought I’d check the spoke tension on my new Big Dog and I’m glad I did as they are extremely undertensioned! Definitely need to have a quick dabble with the spoke key before it goes anywhere major off road!

What length forks are you guys running on your builds?

130mm RS Reba. Works for me as a pretty lightweight fork being my “second” bike for xc only, , however whilst I wouldn’t go longer, I reckon that the frame would definitely work with a much brawnier fork. Pike would be great.

£700 for the scandal frame? Wasn’t it about £200 this time last year, what happened?

What length forks are you guys running on your builds?

Mine came with the Rockshox 35 set at 140mm, but I’ve swapped it to an XFusion McQueen Roughcut I’d spare, at 140mm. Saves a pound plus better damping.