This is starting to really bug me now. After a few really stiff out of the seat climbs, my back wheel is pulled forward on the drive side, so the wheel then runs at an angle. Ive started using chain tugs, but this doesnt seem to stopp the problem, and the non drive side slips backward instead and the tug becomes loose.

Any help with what might be the cause would be appreciated. I'm using a QR at the back, but others seem to be able to get away with this, and i've got it on pretty tight. The chain tension is also fairly tight, whould this affect things???

Help!

BF

are you using disc brakes?

NDS pull back can be a result of disc brake forces.

http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/?page_id=669

Stoner – Erm yes i am, so this could be the problem then??? Other than not using the back brake, what can i do about this?

BF

Switch to a nutted rear axle?

I use xt qr and on-one chain-tug on drive side and (as I've said before on here) it's never budged. What frame is it?

Its a Cotic Simple.

But hasn't the Simple got built-in screws to tension? Also are you using chaintugs both sides? If so try using one on drive-side only. I don't think you need a nutted axle; what qr are you using?

I've a Simple too, and had problems when using the built-in tugs (Drive side was fine, but NDS would slip backwards under heavy braking), even using a decent Shimano QR.

Swapped to a bolt-up hub, and no problems since!

OK. Daft question alert but…

Who sells bolt only hubs? Can only see QR on Chain reaction etc.

Recommendations?

8mm bolt on hub + surly tuggnut on d/s = no slippage on my simple

built in tensioners are a nice idea but dont really work

The guy I bought my Simple frame from (he's on here, but I can't remember his user name- sorry!) replaced the standard bolts in the built-in tensioners- I've had no problems with them! The NDS is a bit of a pain to get to, but it's not too bad wit a ball-end allen key to do them up.

CK and Hope both do SS specific bolt-up hubs, as do a few others… I'm using the SS/ Trials Pro 2, and am very happy with it. You can also convert a few other hubs to either bolt-up or bolt through.

Shimano QR on a Simple with no problems when it's tight enough. I use a tug on the drive side as the bolts aren't up to the job.
It has moved under braking when the QR probably wasn't tight enough.

Cheers guys. Will give the nutted axel route a try. think that should do it.

i had the problem of braking force shifting my wheel a few times on my bike. at some point i got a new wheel (not because of this issue) and the problem was solved.
i think it was because the gnurled end cap on the hub (the face that contacts the inside face of the dropout) was worn smooth, offering no grip on the frame other than the force of the qr.
i also got some of these nice gold halo skewers as a alternative to bolt ups…

anyway, no more wheel slip for me

Depending on the type of wheel you may not need a new hub – just replace the axle with a solid one.

I reckon The allen key skewers which Eck recommends would also give you much better grip – I run something similar on my roadrat.

Simple here.

Have nutted axle.

Replaced original screw in hex bolts with 'normal' nut/bolts.

Never had slippage.

I reckon The allen key skewers which Eck recommends would also give you much better grip – I run something similar on my roadrat.

Im not sure about that…

Wonder if anyone knows how much tension there is in a steel skewer skewer if tightened across the cam of a lever compared to a threaded hollow shaft tightened with an allen key…

Depends how long your allen key is 😉