Best tools to fit kitchen panels and doors

So we are going to replace our kitchen. Leaving the carcasses in we will fit new panels and doors. DIYkitchens Linton range

Can’t afford a fitter so going to do it ourselves. (although don’t know how much this sort of job costs. U shape kitchen 19 doors)

So we need to buy on a budget.

Whats the best saw to buy?

What’s the best blade to use?

What’s the best sort of hinge jig and cutter to buy?

Anything else to consider either tool or technique wise?

I got given one of these. The offset and 90° angle attachments made all screwing so much easier.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XI61OIA/ref=asc_df_B00XI61OIA57086667/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B00XI61OIA&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226606326869&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7530260818144956908&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046126&hvtargid=pla-426064102532&th=1&psc=1

You don’t need to fit the hinges on DIY kitchens units, they are pre built with the doors attached. You have to specify which way the doors open so be very careful about choosing to avoid clashes with other doors and ensuring decent access.

Youll need to fit the handles – just lots of very careful measuring and a sharp wood bit needed for that! Clamp scrap wood to the back to avoid blow through though.

Decent jigsaw would be good for scribing th units back to the rear wall, as well as a long level and building square to level things up.

Get a pro to fit the worktops though, they might be able to help final fit of the cabinets for you. Even if you have the jigs and tools worktops are so difficult to get right.

Dont forget to plan all the services in too!!

I didn’t read you were only putting new doors in, sorry.

I hope you’ve done you’re measuring properly……. not all 500mm doors are 500mm doors, and you can’t cut them down.

Yep I have one of the Bosch screwdrivers but without the attachments. Is pretty good especially being a little bit stubbier. Used it when fitting the loft stilts. really handy.

Now I’ll need to cut down the panels for the ends and the units I was looking at this table saw from screwfix. Is that the best sort of saw?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb674tas-254mm-table-saw-230-240v/9486j

Tape measure that measures twice.

When you cut the panels down you don’t necessarily want the cuts to be straight. You’ll leave an uncut edge at the front and probably the bottom if your floor is level and cut the top and back edges. The top will be straight but you need to scribe the back edge against the wall so that might be wobbly or at at angle.

The guy who did my worktops used a track saw, jigsaw and router to work with.

A tip that I learnt for scribing in end panels and worktops is to cut oversize first, offer the panel up and then using a suitable thickness plastic window spacer* size up the gap and then use that spacer and a sharp pencil, scribe (mark) the panel, then cut. (Use a jig saw with a fine blade, it will probable be an out of square or wibbly cut)

Before then cutting the front to size, make an allowance for the thickness of the iron on edging tape. (If required).

(* I keep an 2 litre ice-cream tub with window spacers for all thicknesses. Always handy for levelling up etc, etc)

Get a kitchen fitter to fit the worktop. He will have the proper tooling jig and a 1/2″ router.

For swapping doors you won’t want a lot of kit.  I’d have the hinge holes pre drilled and refit the new hinge plates to the cabinets, rather than trying to hand drill multiples of 35mm holes.  They’re a ball ache to get in the right place when retro fitting and a good hinge hole cutter that will do multiples will be £35-£50 easy, and ideally you’d use a pillar drill or plunge router.

to fit end panels, you can manage with a jigsaw with a down cut blade and a steady hand,  I use a Festool rail saw as it’s much quicker.

These are a godsend if you have really wavey walls/floors too https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-easyscribe-scribing-tool/7556k

not all the doors and holes will match up  so i use these easy peasy done

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Kitchens/d280/Kitchen+Hardware/sd2674/Hafele+Hinge+Repair+Kit/p25950

That’s actually a good shout Project.

Cheers for the replies guys. food for thought.

What I will say is that this is in a new house. The kitchen is essentially brand new (less than 6 months) if that makes a difference for fitting.

I was hoping to get the table saw and pretty much measure up old for new where it’s done correctly.

(it’s a long story I’m not going into in any detail. S*!t on from a great height)

Oh and the table saw is a bit cheaper than that Festool saw

As above, scribe your end panels to the underside of the worktop and wall, if you cut the Bottom it will soak up any water and blow. I used to rub clear silicone into cut edges to help seal them. Get someone in if your doing worktops, a good jig will cost about £80 and then you need a router, cutter and guide ring probably £300 ish to setup where we used to charge £45 per joint .

Cheap table saws can be harder to get good results with than a track saw.

I would consider a pillar drill for hinge holes as the depth stop and control are a big help.

Budgets the issue though after buying a new house and now needing a new kitchen.

Time however is what I have. So in terms of hinges I was thinking something like this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KREG-377224-Concealed-Hinge-Jig/dp/B06W5C6SWL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543177509&sr=8-1&keywords=concealed+hinge+jig+kreg

I’d buy a good handsaw before that table saw.

The plunge saws that run on guide rails will be much better than the table saw for what you want to do and you don’t need to spend festool money to get one.

https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-track-saw/p/087060236365900

Saying that, I did mine with a decent jigsaw (dewalt cordless) and some nice new progressor blades. Didn’t get any chipping on the gloss laminate surface and it wasn’t too bad to cut in a reasonably straight line (masking tape with a pencil mark on it)

P.S. I also cut my worktops with the jigsaw, but I wouldn’t recommend this if the joint will be visible or have to make up with another section of worktop. I only needed straight lengths of worktop where I could hide end end cut under a little silicone bead against a wall so the slight wobble didn’t make any difference to me.

Get a door handle jig from Screwfix. Best £12 you’ll ever spend.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-drawer-handle-drilling-jig/3528J?tc=VT1&ds_kid=92700030952051390&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=CjwKCAiA0O7fBRASEiwAYI9QAqUx7vReOH8iOkPE-dZfrKVqQ5b5Z8la16lXfwTWNIXCtLuQMHfJnhoC4lUQAvD_BwE

So rene59 what would your go to decent hand saw be?

Spear & Jackson 9500R and something to sharpen it with.

useful thread.  surely it’s easier to just fill.the gap with the wall than scribe (depending on how wavy it is)

Get thee down to Aldi double quick, track saw day today, and it’s a rebranded Scheppach! Says so on the data label.

spursn17Get thee down to Aldi double quick, track saw day today, and it’s a rebranded Scheppach! Says so on the data label.

Would you change the blade?

A rail saw is no good for scribing, unless of course your walls are perfectly straight.

Anyway though, on laminates, set your depth to just skim cut first, then go back to full depth for a second pass. My Makita has this feature built in. Not sure if the aldi one does or not.

The kitchen that’s in is new. It’s in a new house. (no guarantee the wall are straight I know) I will be fitting like for like in terms of kitchen set up just a different style.

Just getting others experience before embarking of swapping things myself.

A rail saw is brilliant for scribing to wavey walls.  I’ve done six this week.  I simply measure the gap every 300mm, mark this onto the panel I’m scribing (less 2mm) and place the rail onto the first 2 marks and as the saw moves along keep nudging the rail across to the next mark.  When you get to the end of the rail, stop, slide the rail forwards, use the riving knife to get you back into the right place and carry on.  I cut hundreds of boards up to 2800mm in length and I only have a 1400mm rail.  I’ve never been tempted to get a longer one.

The only thing you need extra is a jigsaw to cut out for the skirting and other obstacles.  Or use a multitool to chop the skirting off.

Using this method you can’t do a 2mm scoring cut first to reduce chipout so you might get a bit of chipping depending on the material.  If it’s a high gloss it might be better to turn it over and cut from the reverse side as this usually makes a cleaner cut.

That Kreg hinge jig is very good but I always hate drilling hinge holes.  I’ve gone all the way through a couple of times, done them in the wrong place  and also drilled for handles on the hinge side.  I’ve got 6 hinge holes, 6 handles, 2 wall scribes and 3 plinths to do today.

Ear defenders, dust extraction and steel toecap boots are a must.

Cheers guys food for thought.

This is probably the one we will go with.

https://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-doors/linwood-carbon/doors-only-ordering/

May be a shade lighter. Going up next weekend to make a final decision.

Are there any perils using the old panels as a template?

It will be just swapping like for like.

All I can say is I always order my doors from HPP.  Loads of colours and patterns and they are made to my specific measurements to the mm and the hinge holes are precisely where you ask them to be.

Contact me if you want me to price them up or order them for you.

I ordered new doors very recently and the holes were all drilled as specified (100mm in from edge is normal)

Only took 6 hours to hang them all and put handles on. Then 6 hours to remove, paint edges of carcass and then rehang.

BigJohn

All I can say is I always order my doors from HPP.  Loads of colours and patterns and they are made to my specific measurements to the mm and the hinge holes are precisely where you ask them to be.

Contact me if you want me to price them up or order them for you.

Cheers Big John we have decided to go with diy kitchens. been to their showroom a couple of times. Basket is full and ready to go. Just need to decide on colour. Carbon probably but need to just double check next weekend.

Shouldn’t really be having to change the kitchen at all but the amount of F&*$kwittery by the house builder and their numpty kitchen oufit means I’m quite looking forward to doing a better job than them so called professionals.

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So I have now fitted the new kitchen. As I have said previously I left the carcasses in as the kitchen was only 6 months old. went for a light grey colour with carbon grey draw fronts for contrast. Added a couple of glass fronted doors and added glass shelves and spots in the cupboard. Really pleased with the results.
Some of the workmanship of the original kitchen was pretty sh1t considering it was supposed to be fitted by professionals.
I would like to thank everyone on here who gave me the advice. Bought handle and hinge jigs, Hand saw and in the end a power plane. Took my time and feel I’ve done a pretty good job and it’s a damn sight better the one we bought with the house.
Shame circumstance wasn’t different it would have allowed to choose a different one. We wouldn’t have chosen high gloss and certainly will never choose high gloss ever again although doesn’t matter what type of kitchen style it is if the people fitted it don’t care.
It’s not nice to feel we’ve been sh1t on after spending so much on a house but at least we now have a nice centre piece to our house rather than a monument to a bunch of C*7$s and muppetry.

So thank you guys

If not already then replace the hinges at the same time with some nice ones, the Blum soft close jobs Iput in our wardrobe are much nicer to use than the ones in our kitchen.

Edit,soz, didn’t realise was 2 months back :)

Yep was a thank you really. For the help.

Just hack a big hole in it and glue the vent in. Be alreet no one will ever see it.

2019-02-17_09-08-39 by eruptron Smith[/url], on Flickr