Must be that route "Arse Over Tit", HVS 5a, Pass of Ballater?
Little Chamonix.
Not seen this in the climbing press yet but the updated version of Extreme Rock edited by Grant Farquhar has just been published. Some of the original text and photos are there, some revised texts and a whole raft of new pictures and essays (focuses on trad climbing as it and sport are quite separate genres now). I have a copy and I think it's really impressive and I've seen it on Amazon for less than £35.
Shouldn't it be called Extreme Rock 2 or More Extreme Rock as it's not really just a second edition, it's a whole load of new stuff?
I think ER2 was the working title but since the original has been out of print for thirty plus years they must of gone for the original title as it certainly trips off the tongue a bit better.
Slightly sad to be resurrecting this thread in mid December but good if chilly bouldering conditions in Torridon yesterday. Anyone else been out and about?
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IBB.CO "https://ibb.co/F4zt853P][img] [/img][/url]"Myself and Conti had another bash at the Stanage VSs last weekend. We managed a measly 7 routes but I was actually quite impressed that we stayed out for about 6.5 hours as it was properly cold (3C perhaps) windy as hell and very damp
There was a strict time limit on climbing time for each route.... Tying in and putting in rock shoes was strictly gloves on, then only take off gloves and belay jacket as you stood ready to climb...... Then about 6 or 7 minutes until the fingers just became too numb to function. Gloves and jacket back in to belay at the top of the climb then race back down trying to generate enough heat to cover the next belay session.
Probably not the best time of year to be trying that!
Pretty crazy weather up here. Rain to summit level in the NW today then no precipitation forecast until a week tomorrow. So it'll potentially cold enough at some points for winter climbing but there's no snow.
Sadly, my Reynaud's keeps me off the rock during the colder months.
I'm champing at the bit to get back to it next year though!
I mostly climb Trad in the Lakes where I live and usually out at least once a week when I can find the time.
Strictly a punter, I tend to climb a lot of Vdiffs & Severes. Although, I will occasionally allow myself to be dragged up something stiffer in grade if my head is in the right space
Went tradding by the sea the weekend before last but it's rained a lot, most days since then. Block of good weather now so get out again before christmas and then boxing day I hope
A spot of bouldering by the sea between Christmas and new year. I'll post some more when I can work out how to do so without duplicates!
Lovely pics!
Coastal climbing is some of my favourite - cant beat the atmosphere
It's a cracking spot Opinan, I've posted pics before I think. Not many people boulder there but there's enough for a decent day.
I'm going to try and get up to do some of the Classic Rock routes in Scotland this year, shame that spot is nowhere near any of them...
I'm going to try and get up to do some of the Classic Rock routes in Scotland this year, shame that spot is nowhere near any of them...
It's not too far from the Cioch Nose. TBH honest, it's one of those venues that's more about the setting than the quality of climbing.
That slab in the second photo looks good tho'
How's your search for Cross country boots going?
That slab in the second photo looks good tho'
How's your search for Cross country boots going?
The slab is fun but escapable.
I'm just going to buy some cheap boots and sell them on after the trip. It's unlikely to be something I get into.
Not sure this is the correct thread but … ..
I appreciate it is not exactly rock climbing, but does anyone know where this picture (in the latest Alpkit email ‘Find Faraway Nearby’ Outpost Mountain Journal sent on 24.02.26) is from. It’s intriguing me and I am hoping it is somewhere in the UK.
Cheers
I don't know but I'd guess The Glyders.
I don't know but I'd guess The Glyders.
Nah... there's nothing that 'ridgy' in The Glyders. Pretty sure its north of the border, probably western side, as I think there's a bit of sealoch in the background. Its hard to make out detail through the mist on the phone, and my Outpost mag hasn't appeared yet. But I can't place it accurately.
Probs should have been in the Hillwalking thread, btw, @nickingsley
See I was thinking south of the border!
Absolutely roasting. Think I might just have a nap!
We had a brief glimpse of a dry weekend last week, got very close to my first 6C boulder and then instantly back to constant rain. This winter drags on and on, I had climbed outside so much by this time last year!
I think there's been a real north-south split in the weather, it's been ok on the Moray coast.
Looks like we are going to get a little run of a few dry days now here in West Yorkshire.
I need to be get better at using the weather windows - got lazy with all the dry days last from late 2024 to September 2025. Then basically there has barely been a run of two dry days since.
Many of those photos are giving me vertigo just looking at them! It’s not so much a fear of falling as the abrupt stop at the bottom! 😱
Chickenman should recognise the venue.
Good day at Dirc Mhor yesterday doing Scorched Earth and Working Class Hero. The latter is excellent.
What have you all been up to?
Nothing that exciting. I took my nephew out again. His first longer drive since passing his test.
I sent him the message of I'll pack the gear, you bring the rope ..... I'll let you guess what he forgot and I made him drive home for.
Meant we walked off in the dark.
Much lower grade sport - been about 5 times I think in the last fortnight..
Had a good day on tryfan last month with son1. Managed to get first in queue on Grooved Arete despite starting from Manchester that morning and the people behind us starting in the layby by the lake!
Good climb then did Ordinary Route or something on milestone on the way down. Despite my best efforts we finished in the daylight which was a bit of a disappointment! Will try to find a third route next time.
@Spin, I do indeed recognise that venue! Host to many a Kev Howett route. His routes tend to either be really nippy at the grade or surprisingly straightforward. the former is definately the case at Dirc Mhor and several routes have been upgraded. It's a bit of a hike in to the crag though and it's either freezing or midgey there in the summer IIRC.
Managed to get first in queue on Grooved Arete
A cracking route. I remember being somewhat alarmed by the polish moving from one groove to another. Knight's move slab is excellent and the little stance above is a brilliant viewpoint looking out across the valley.
