Must be that route "Arse Over Tit", HVS 5a, Pass of Ballater?
Little Chamonix.
Not seen this in the climbing press yet but the updated version of Extreme Rock edited by Grant Farquhar has just been published. Some of the original text and photos are there, some revised texts and a whole raft of new pictures and essays (focuses on trad climbing as it and sport are quite separate genres now). I have a copy and I think it's really impressive and I've seen it on Amazon for less than £35.
Shouldn't it be called Extreme Rock 2 or More Extreme Rock as it's not really just a second edition, it's a whole load of new stuff?
I think ER2 was the working title but since the original has been out of print for thirty plus years they must of gone for the original title as it certainly trips off the tongue a bit better.
Slightly sad to be resurrecting this thread in mid December but good if chilly bouldering conditions in Torridon yesterday. Anyone else been out and about?
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Myself and Conti had another bash at the Stanage VSs last weekend. We managed a measly 7 routes but I was actually quite impressed that we stayed out for about 6.5 hours as it was properly cold (3C perhaps) windy as hell and very damp
There was a strict time limit on climbing time for each route.... Tying in and putting in rock shoes was strictly gloves on, then only take off gloves and belay jacket as you stood ready to climb...... Then about 6 or 7 minutes until the fingers just became too numb to function. Gloves and jacket back in to belay at the top of the climb then race back down trying to generate enough heat to cover the next belay session.
Probably not the best time of year to be trying that!
Pretty crazy weather up here. Rain to summit level in the NW today then no precipitation forecast until a week tomorrow. So it'll potentially cold enough at some points for winter climbing but there's no snow.
Sadly, my Reynaud's keeps me off the rock during the colder months.
I'm champing at the bit to get back to it next year though!
I mostly climb Trad in the Lakes where I live and usually out at least once a week when I can find the time.
Strictly a punter, I tend to climb a lot of Vdiffs & Severes. Although, I will occasionally allow myself to be dragged up something stiffer in grade if my head is in the right space
Went tradding by the sea the weekend before last but it's rained a lot, most days since then. Block of good weather now so get out again before christmas and then boxing day I hope
A spot of bouldering by the sea between Christmas and new year. I'll post some more when I can work out how to do so without duplicates!
Lovely pics!
Coastal climbing is some of my favourite - cant beat the atmosphere
It's a cracking spot Opinan, I've posted pics before I think. Not many people boulder there but there's enough for a decent day.
I'm going to try and get up to do some of the Classic Rock routes in Scotland this year, shame that spot is nowhere near any of them...
I'm going to try and get up to do some of the Classic Rock routes in Scotland this year, shame that spot is nowhere near any of them...
It's not too far from the Cioch Nose. TBH honest, it's one of those venues that's more about the setting than the quality of climbing.
That slab in the second photo looks good tho'
How's your search for Cross country boots going?
That slab in the second photo looks good tho'
How's your search for Cross country boots going?
The slab is fun but escapable.
I'm just going to buy some cheap boots and sell them on after the trip. It's unlikely to be something I get into.
Not sure this is the correct thread but … ..
I appreciate it is not exactly rock climbing, but does anyone know where this picture (in the latest Alpkit email ‘Find Faraway Nearby’ Outpost Mountain Journal sent on 24.02.26) is from. It’s intriguing me and I am hoping it is somewhere in the UK.
Cheers
I don't know but I'd guess The Glyders.
I don't know but I'd guess The Glyders.
Nah... there's nothing that 'ridgy' in The Glyders. Pretty sure its north of the border, probably western side, as I think there's a bit of sealoch in the background. Its hard to make out detail through the mist on the phone, and my Outpost mag hasn't appeared yet. But I can't place it accurately.
Probs should have been in the Hillwalking thread, btw, @nickingsley
See I was thinking south of the border!
Absolutely roasting. Think I might just have a nap!
We had a brief glimpse of a dry weekend last week, got very close to my first 6C boulder and then instantly back to constant rain. This winter drags on and on, I had climbed outside so much by this time last year!
I think there's been a real north-south split in the weather, it's been ok on the Moray coast.
Looks like we are going to get a little run of a few dry days now here in West Yorkshire.
I need to be get better at using the weather windows - got lazy with all the dry days last from late 2024 to September 2025. Then basically there has barely been a run of two dry days since.
Many of those photos are giving me vertigo just looking at them! It’s not so much a fear of falling as the abrupt stop at the bottom! 😱
Chickenman should recognise the venue.
Good day at Dirc Mhor yesterday doing Scorched Earth and Working Class Hero. The latter is excellent.
What have you all been up to?
Nothing that exciting. I took my nephew out again. His first longer drive since passing his test.
I sent him the message of I'll pack the gear, you bring the rope ..... I'll let you guess what he forgot and I made him drive home for.
Meant we walked off in the dark.
Much lower grade sport - been about 5 times I think in the last fortnight..
Had a good day on tryfan last month with son1. Managed to get first in queue on Grooved Arete despite starting from Manchester that morning and the people behind us starting in the layby by the lake!
Good climb then did Ordinary Route or something on milestone on the way down. Despite my best efforts we finished in the daylight which was a bit of a disappointment! Will try to find a third route next time.
@Spin, I do indeed recognise that venue! Host to many a Kev Howett route. His routes tend to either be really nippy at the grade or surprisingly straightforward. the former is definately the case at Dirc Mhor and several routes have been upgraded. It's a bit of a hike in to the crag though and it's either freezing or midgey there in the summer IIRC.
Managed to get first in queue on Grooved Arete
A cracking route. I remember being somewhat alarmed by the polish moving from one groove to another. Knight's move slab is excellent and the little stance above is a brilliant viewpoint looking out across the valley.
Just back from 10 days in Sardinia with the missus. For some reason we missed out on the initial hype 25 years ago or whenever it was that Cala Gonone was in vogue. Wasn't really a climbing trip but we still got five days in and climbed some excellent routes. Highlight was running the first four pitches together on something easy on Poltrona.
Was stupidly hot but still managed to get my head back into it if not my fingers, which were absolutely raw. On the plus side my broken finger bone seems full healed, even if the joint isn't.
Son is back home in two weeks so we are looking for inspiration for last week of June...
- Nose on Sgurr a Choureachan (sp). Integrity, cioch etc. Bit of biking on the way in the Gorms. And whatever is good. Grey Panther on Kilt if I can psyche myself up to it ( eek)
- DWS in Pembroke. Plus some trad.
- Portland DWS and sport.
- Perhaps lakes or North Wales, but probably not for a week
- Irritatingly enough the cheapest flights I can find are Mallorca. Perhaps pack the boat and a dozen pairs of shoes and chalk bags and try to brave the temp difference between air and sea. (Med was still chilly yesterday so a bit cautious about that). Car hire is also stupid cheap at present
- Also seen cheap flights to Milan, so considering Val De Mello. Great bouldering according to my German mates, but not sure if the multi pitch is a bit serious. Any views?
- Also very cheap flights to Rimini, but can't see any cool climbing around there.
- Granite in southern Norway.... Torp flights look cheap and handy.
Obviously if prefer to stay in the UK if the weather is up to it but......
Idealy looking for cool ( ie not scorchio) bolted or trad multi and single pitch. Interesting and adventurous but not too much so. Don't want my son in too deep
Tell me.
Interesting and adventurous but not too much so. Don't want my son in too deep
Have either of you done much DWS before? I've only done a small amount but I was surprised by how serious it felt given that it was just me and my wife who was basically sitting on the top reading her book. Perhaps there are less serious places to do it (we were at Conner Cove) but my feeling was that it was something best done with a big crowd.
Can't help you with the Euro options but they're probably the ones to go for if you need to book and don't want to be disappointed!
It's been a really shit spring and early summer for mountain rock in Scotland.
If there's anyone in the Lakes (north) looking for a climbing partner, I'm getting back into it after a lay off. Currently VS/6a type grade for leading, and keen to tick off some classics I overlooked when I was climbing harder in the past.
Almost retired (early), so have plenty of opportunity. And new gear.......
Not in the lakes but looking for a same in the south-west/dartmoor way…
Have either of you done much DWS before? I've only done a small amount but I was surprised by how serious it felt
Not a huge amount but enough to concur that we need to be really careful...
Think I've been on two Mallorca trips. We defo headed for the safer, and easier, venues. We totally bottled Diabolo due to the swell and non enclosed nature. (Conscious of what happened to DamianC). We tended to go to the enclosed coves where the swell was less and much easier to land). Managed a few routes up to 7a.
I did experience "the switch" on a couple of routes, which was very interesting/powerful. We'd got to the stage where we were happy trying certain stuff and focussing on the moves rather than the fall/swim. You know that zone you get into when doing sport whereby you relax totally and just put all your effort into the next move. But the this one route was a little bit longer, with a little teensy ledge at the bottom..... I was about 8-10m up and doing fine until I realised that I wasn't 100% sure any more and there was a possibility of off. Absolutely amazing how quick the transition is. You realise it's hard, that you may not manage the whole thing, that the fall is long, that the ledge is there, that surface tension exists. You get scared, pumped and fall- all in a split second. Because I kicked back slightly, I didn't land ideally and did get a fair knock, but all good. And most importantly all exactly as expected when I was considering the route beforehand.
Been to Portland/Swanage a couple of times. Very much shallower water there so very fickle conditions. First time was ok but the memories of my second visit still give me shivers. I was on my own and the sea was choppy. Did a few easier lines but more in S mode than DWS mode. Anyway some other guys turned up and one of them swam. He spent ages trying to get back in but his mates were ignoring him. Eventually I overcame the somebody/everybody/nobody syndrome and chucked him a life jacket ( it was the wrong size as I'd bought the kid's by mistake but still useful) He was so grateful and made further attempts to exit. Each time he neared the exit ledge he would get lifted by a wave and try to grab on, but the trough would appear and he'd then have the next wave towering above his head. He'd shit himself and have to swim back out to sea to rest/ recover. Each time he did this he'd be more exhausted. Anyway, long story short, I very very very carefully tied a knot in my ab rope and abseiled down onto the ledge. I then adjusted the rope so the waves were hitting me but not hurting me. After a few false starts I persuaded him to swim back in again and commit to the next wave. He did that and I reached down to try on hold him as the wave sucked back.you've never seen two people cling to each other so tightly. Once he was on the ledge it was easy enough getting him up the rope.
His mates were utter ****s and I can't express enough my contempt for them. If I hadn't thrown him the bouyo and then gone down for him he would not have got out.
Did a fair bit in Pembroke similar to you. Wife and kids in the pub nearby having tea.. Me going up and down endless routes down at the sea. I knew at the time that it wasn't really DWS I was doing, it was proper soloing with a slight safety margin
Oh yes, also done some great stuff in the Arabian sea near Muscat. Proper boat launch stuff with warm seas and deep water. Awesome.
So, yes, sort of. I'm conscious of the huge risks, but I know my son is into cliff jumping and dumb shit anyway. My hope is to stretch his limits just enough to let him see how dangerous it could be, but managing it enough to keep it reasonably safe in practice.
The one above is me looking out through the access caves at one of the venues we bottled. Doesn't look much but the sea was too rough for me that day
Whereas this venue was fine:
.
Generalist, you were asking asking about Valdimello? The valley is absolutely stunning, fairly quiet, probably my favourite place in the Alps. The waliking is wonderful and there is rock everywhere but you won't see many folk climbing with a rope. There is the uber classic Luna Nascente which with an aid point off the deck comes in at HVS/E1 and six pitches, the hardest bit is not getting lost in the woods on the way in or descent, it's a full day too. Apart from that almost all climbing is granite slab climbing with spaced bolts, beware the F6as have harder climbing than anything on the Etive Slabs, F7a is smearing from one crystal to the next, if you stop moving you fall off. Basically, visiters get their arses kicked on routes way below their normal leading standard so visiters just go bouldering.
The main Bregallia valley heading up to St Moritz in Switzerland has the Bergell/Spazzacaldera cliff above a dam reached by cable car. There are some more amenable 400m routes there starting from one where only the first pitch is VS, then mostly easier climbing.
Basically, visiters get their arses kicked on routes way below their normal leading standard
Ah. Not ideal.
Spazzacaldera cliff above a dam reached by cable car. There are some more amenable 400m routes there starting from one where only the first pitch is VS, then mostly easier climbing.
Blimey, I remember climbing there years ago. We did one route from the hut by the dam and then woke up to snow. We bailed down to the valley then the sun came out again. The pattern repeated a few days then we pissed off to frankenjura instead. Lovely rock but too intense for me and my son.
Would that therefore suggest that Mello is also two intense for us?
Yeah, I think you'd love Valdimello but not have much joy with the routes. Italian and Swiss grades are generally tough though.
A nice day out yesterday on Clogwyn yr Oen on the Moelwyns. - we went to do Kirkus' Climb, 4 pitch VDiff.
My mate struggled to follow me up the 1st rather udgy chimney pitch, so he skulked in from the left over grassy ledges. 2nd pitch went fine, then I got up to the 3rd belay and tied in. Halfway up that, Mick suddenly came on the rope, and then tried again with much the same result. Lowered him off back to the 2nd stance, which was followed by a bit of ineffectual shouting up and down the crag between the pair of us - lots was lost in the breeze (and to a pair of F15s flying over). Once comms were re-established, I untied, dropped the whole rope down to him and soloed off up the last, scrambly pitch, then descended the hillside. Managed to scramble in from the slopes to the west to rejoin him, then we abbed off the bottom couple of pitches. All good fun, and a bit of an adventure.
One very elderly boot will be needing a resole, as the glue packed in and it decided to behave like a flappy thing half way up the route, which made things a little more entertaining
Blimey that's an old boot.
Rock looks amazing though
Off to Arco on Sunday.... Unless the Dollies forecast improves hugely.
