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B&Q is about £5/m2 for the above, worth trying a timber supplier for a better price? (I could cut down 8x4s @ home)
EDIT and is it worth insulating under the tiles? seems v cheap just now (£3/5.5m2) - I've already insulated my ceilings.
You won't get t/g chipboard at 8x4. Only ply. A timber merchant would be a but cheaper possibly, depends on which one you go to though. You might be as well to go for loft panels given that you've got to get them up into the loft before screwing down. (18mm stuff starts to get heavy)
I've got a load I need to shift. Based in wiltshire if that helps
I got 2.4x0.6m t&g sections from Wickes last year at £5 a board. Was a lot cheaper than B&Q
I always use wickes loft boards when I do them (at work)
Cheaper than timber merchants round here, and far easier to shift smaller boards into confined spaces.
Ta Miker - In Edinburgh an my MX5's not that efficient, tho it can carry a lot of wood!
It doesn't [i]have[/i] to be T&G does it? It's only for storage.
Wickes is same £££ as B&Q.
Joiners tip, mark position of all pipes on top of boards and take pictures so you know whats under them.
Doesn't have to be tongue and groove really, but you wont have to cut boards to meet on the joists if you use Tongue and groove.
The reason its T AND G is because they interlock, like lego and giove extra strength to something that has little strength, especially when you stand on a span .
Doesn't need to be T&G. It can be annoying using that if you ever need to lift a board up ie wiring. Price does seem to have gone up. You will get a 10% discount if you ask at the counter if the t&g is damaged in any way
It doesn't [i]have[/i] to be t/g, no. But you'll waste a lot less if you use t/g. You can hang the joints wherever then instead of having to have them on joists.
Ta - 8x4 is little cheaper anyway (@ B&Q) so I'll check out the timber merchants and go for T&G. I'll move my water pipes up there anyway, but the light circuit is above the (already part floored) floor 🙄
Try "click to buy diy" not sure about delivery but dead cheap on loft flooring
*bump* re insulation?
At today's prices I could do it for £80!
Dont do the roof if you have already done the ceilings, add more to the ceilings but dont do the roof.
I bought some top up 170mm x 1200mm insulation from homebase for £2 a roll last month. Dont know if they're still doing the offer.
No to insulation based on limited information.
It sounds like your loft is a cold roof arrangement. I.e air circulation in the loft space / insulation at the ceiling line.
Thread ressurection!
I am looking to floor a part of my loft. Built in the last 15 - 20 years, 600mm centres, pretty straight forward really, I would say im a competent DIYer. Ive looked at both B&Q and Wickes and their loft panels both come in 1220mm sizes. Why on earth would this be? This means I will have to cut 20mm off each board. If they were 1200mm they that would work for 400mm or 600mm centres. Or am I missing something?
T&G should make up the difference, and its 'a metric foot' that causes the 1220mm.
But buy bulk from a local supplier, 8'*4' (2440mm*1220mm), and get it delivered.
Builders merchant by me was about £23 for 8'x4' sheets of 19mm ply. I cut them to 8'x2' to get through the loft hatch. Chipboard is great till it gets wet...
When I boarded mine I had to lay 2"x"2 strips along each joist to get the boards above the insulation. Where the ends met & used a peice of 6"x1" just to strengthen them. Seems solid enough. This was a few years ago though.
ooooh this is perfect timing ... I fitted the loft ladder this week and need next to extend the boarding for more storage... does anybody know the weight limits and issues with using it as a room? I've a vague notion to fix a small climbing board to the roof joists and use it for circuits? Probably not a good idea?
Thanks so far. I would usually cut them to fit and all that but this project I'm simply wanting to buy boards and fit them with minimal fuss and mess and cutting. BR, are you saying t&g will make up the difference each time and the top finished surface of each board will will be 1200mm and they are measured as 1220 due to including the 20mm tongue? Actually it can't be because there are no t&g on the ends?
This just seems to have made a simple job complicated!
i got waterproof/resistant 22mm T&G in 8 by 2 lengths for £6.50 a board.
Easy DIY job to cut and fit to loft.
I didn't glue mine incase it needs to come up - well worth extra insulation being put under it before it goes down
Ply, mdf and chipboard are imperial sized 8 by 4 (1220 by 2440mm).
Cornflake board is metric 2400 by 1200 as is plasterboard (there was a while in the 1980s when plasterboard was imperial lengths and metric widths IIRC!).
It gets really daft doing timber frame structures when the ply to the exterior is 20mm wider than the plasterboard to the inside..
Ply, mdf and chipboard are imperial sized 8 by 4 (1220 by 2440mm).
Cornflake board is metric 2400 by 1200 as is plasterboard (there was a while in the 1980s when plasterboard was imperial lengths and metric widths IIRC!).
It gets really daft doing timber frame structures when the ply to the exterior is 20mm wider than the plasterboard to the inside..
And dont put down insulation and then compress it when you put the boards over. Lift the boarded section and then insulate 🙂