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cheers CZ.
I agree RE Wiltshire roads. What's wrong with your council??! 😯
I agree RE Wiltshire roads. What's wrong with your council??!
🙄
Beats the hell out of me. And my car. All I can think is it's part of the same strategy as letting road markings fade out; it forces drivers to slow down. Well, that's the stated strategy on some roads, at any rate.
And don't get me started on trying to get the bastards to cough up for damaged wheels...
A Landy really does have a lot of appeal.
And yours is a beaut, really nice work, and thanks for the ongoing progress report; it's been both instructive and hugely entertaining. 😀
I approve this thread.
So much so ive taken a week off work at the end of the month purely with the objective of sorting out my project landy into a group of - good bits , bits that need work and bits that need ordering....
A quick sniff reveals chassis and bulkhead most likely .... But ill see when i get it to bits.
Ive got a few bits and pieces left over that may be of use to you, so put up a wishlist here before I put them on eBay.
Need an update my friend 🙂
Stoner this you will approve of this
Found a 200tdi 11L prefix and all ancilleries , manifolds and pipework.
That is a high mount turbo defender engine
And i brought it home. Lad had redone it for a project he never even got started - 400 quids worth of gaskets/seals/timinbelt/waterpump and valeo clutch kit all still in boxes
🙂 all i need now is a disk rear axel and a fuel tank . Thunderbirds will be go!
tagging on the back of stoners thread.
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like a bought ain.
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manufacturing panels
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roooottt
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mid bulkhead repair panels
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new suspension
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acid dip
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post dip - radius arms
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post dip A frame arms.
as i mentioned in the last post i have a 200TDI defender engine to replace the 19j thats in it. and i should mention im not going for a daily driver look like stoner - im building for class 2 RTVs so not going for the concourse all new parts look hence all the welding and rebuilding instead of shiny galv as it will likely sustain damage.
I would be so disheartened by all that rot...fair play to lay to see past that...
Wouldn't it have been easier just to build a new Defender from scratch? 🙂
im building an old defender from sheet steel and mig wire.
Well I thought I was a shit welder but I may have just lost that prize 🙂
you lucky, lucky bastard t_r!
A Defender 200tdi turbo on it's own is £500! They are like rocking horse poo, hence all those disco 200tdi abominations rolling around 🙂 How much did you pay for it?
I have a source for a disco rear disc axle which I was going to be making an offer on, but mine is in with a landy garage for a bit of TLC to the front swivels and while they were poking around they found the rear drum mechanism was in a bit of a state as well as the drive flanges at the rear, so theyre being done which rather means a bit of a waste of money getting replacing with a new axle once its tidied up.
Id get the axle for you, but its a long way for you to pick it up 🙂
When it gets back tonight Ive just got to fit the refurbd rear trailing arms and anti roll bar Ive done and she's good for another 26 yrs of abuse 🙂
I know where there is a 97P 110 CSW for sale for £1000 if anybody else wants a project.
(Ps £1000 is a bargain you could strip it and get that in no time)
i know where there is a C plate ex MOD 2.5N/A 90(wanting a new chassis) for sale for 900 if anyone wants that. Scotland based.
stoner - YHM .
also , how were the drums with the 200tdi ? having had a few rear end lock ups in the wet under light braking with an empty bed im inclined to stick a drum axle on.
The garage said that the n/s had new shoes...and a leaking cylinder spraying oil all over them, the o/s had old shoes running on the metal
😯
But the drums were in perfectly good condition, so he's fitting new cylinders and shoes for me. I could have done it myself, as Ive just done the same on the freelander, but I might as well leave it with him while he has it on the ramp.
Oddly enough I could still lock up the rear. But I had some brake fade at times which I had put down to a leaking master cylinder seal, but if its the rear cylinder then thats something I dont have to rebuild.
she's good for another 26 yrs of abuse
Optimistic I think 8)
A lot of time/work/mig wire there TR.
A mate has just sold a lovely original low milage (<50k) 200tdi 90. It was a really peach, totally original with just that slight patina of age. Base of the seats still had the original stickers, the seat box and under the floor mats was shiney like new. There was even still paint on the chassis! I wish I'd had the funds / space to give it a home. I still miss my 200tdi 90.
aye its definantly a labour of love mark.
its as much to learn/keep my skills sharp as it is about the end product.
If you dont use your hands you soon forget how to use em - and i drive a desk most days these days.
My winter project! - 200tdi Defender engine.
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what do you plan to do with it having taken it to pieces?
A V8 block would make a better coffee table.
TR, know what you mean about working with your hands after a week behind a desk. Pre kids my hands where usually oily outside 9-5 these days its more likely paint or building dust. I preferred the oil.
interesting rusty.
never fails to amaize me how clean 200s are inside compared to 19Js.
what milage was on that motor ?
mark - im not allowed a v8 block coffee table but i have a shagged out 85bhp v8 in the garage thats not got any carbs.
I have permission to strip it ,dip it and turn itinto a wine rack - im sure thats just because jaynes worked out - 8 holes = 8 wines.
I have a nice clean 3.9 (takes fatter Champagne bottles*) block sitting under the stairs waiting to be put to good use. It was cleaned for a rebuild before a crack was discovered.
* like we drink that on a regular basis 🙄
Suns nearly risen, cup of joe and undo bellhousing/engine mounts and the 19j should set free. Got the rad. And all ancillaries off last night 🙂
Planning to lift it out , do passengers footwell and door post , lift off bulkhead , remove boxes and gearbox cross member. Wire wheel chassis and go mad painting - probably tomorrow ill be honest.
Load of galv to t wash first.
Well that is me awake... Emma has made sure of that by jumping on me. If you need a hand with moving stuff give me a shout and I'll pedal on uo to yours.
Cheers russell, ill probably need to call the 2 irish men from cults in at some point. My garage is getting a bit cluttered with engines- this will be the third in there my hoist wont go on the rear grass so i cant get them in the back shedi folded my sack barrow in half putting the 200tdi into the garage the other night.
I have another one for you boys...
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Has it got any mot mate 😉
Engines out, the 19j served one purpose... Its oil consumption and spraying of chassis kept the chassis at the front in good nick. My input and output splines on my gear and transfer box look like new , much happy!!
A quick coffee , time to strip off the front axel and then ill paint the radius arms and a frame and tidy away.
Need to make a few mods to the garage , a house down my road got his garage turned over last night :/
what do you plan to do with it having taken it to pieces?
interesting rusty.never fails to amaize me how clean 200s are inside compared to 19Js.
what milage was on that motor ?
I bought it from a breakers condition & mileage unknown. Its been sat in my unit for a year or so filled with oil and turned over weekly. However when I took the head off to have a look inside it looks its spent a long time with water sat in the bores and as a result they're completely knackered. Its also had a lot of crap on the oil pump gauze and as a result the crank is scored.
Had a look at the turbo today and thats knackered as well!
To be honest though 200tdi's arent getting any younger and I'd expect most of them out there to need work so I bought it with a strip down planned.
The plan is to liner the block back to standard - new OEM pistons&rings. Replacement crank, new mains&big end bearings, new cam bearings and line ream, port and flow the head whilst I have it on the bench, VGT turbo, massive Allard intercooler, new injector nozzzles and a pump tweak.
All fasteners/brackets off for re-plating, pulleys being powder coated, all aluminium cases glass beaded, oily internal stuff cleaned same time as the block was in my engine machinist guys industrial dishwasher thingy.
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Original paint on the axel and tie rod.
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Gear box bellhousing full of mud,needs a new slave though, fork is unmodified so ill get a new one. The thrust bearing was utterly shagged
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Front shocks - no wonder it sidnt feel like any damping , there wasnt.
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Quality engine i tell ya :/
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Looks better in a pile than it did as the sorry ass truck i started with.
Bulkheads one solid multi coloured unit again. Save for one patch under the heater box inlet....how ever im out of goddam gas.
Probably going to haul it off the chassis and move it into my garage and finish working on it tere now i know it will hold a shape , get it fully seem welded , ground down and a skim of filler on the top corners to finish before painting it blue again,
That way i can work in the rain and cold over winter 🙂
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Masking didnt really work so ill just have to sand the paint out wiht a flap wheel.hope its fairly close to gwyn lewis trailing arms.
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Its pitted but is that a huge issue, doesnt leak yet , probably get worse once i use it but i dont want to spent 160 on balls and housings right now if ill get a little while out of them so i can get my other axels sorted.
Brake calipers are off , rebuilding with stainless pistons and new seals , disks are rusty but new , so will get a wirewheeling to look like new again 🙂
doesnt leak yet
Depends what's in there. One shot? Or dry?
With that amount of pitting....well...
I just had mine done (and TBH they didnt look as bad as that 😛 ). Swivel refurb kit was £200 :crys:
but it does run so much tighter now.
Is that off a disco or the original?
Its oil in.... I checked .
The old mantra- no oil under it - no oil in it!
Thata my original 10 splined axel.
Plan to build it with these , get some time under my belt in standard class while building a set of ashcroft driffed axle with the disco 24 splines,
Might be very pikey- chem metal , nail varnish and a polish up to get me rolling. Reluctant to spend 160 quid on swivels and balls to do the same again on the other axels :/
To be honest you won't go far wrong with jb weld on those - it'll certainly last you longer than it will leaving it but I think you know the real answer.
If you're feeling uber pikey I've seen people use body filler when they had no jb weld... surprisingly lasting over 2 years!
chem metal is whats happening alexx.... if that fails i will think about new ones - or ill accelerate my new axles.....
corrosion of the balls in its self isnt an mot failure - just leaking. They are full of EP atm ... ill get em patched up and keep one-shot in stock till i get my 24 spline axles built.
trail_rat - Member
corrosion of the balls in its self...
Oof! Eye watering time 🙂
hehe boblo!
Post some pics up when you're done if you don't mind mate tempted to see how it goes myself... mine are corroded but not as badly as yours and I've been tempted to leave them for now as they aren't leaking oil either.
Since you seem to be "ballsdeep" in a restore it seems like a decent time to tackle them I'd say.
Apparently one shots aren't mean't to be as ball friendly and a pain to clean out when contaminated - I was going to replace mine with it but decided to stick on ep
I will be doing a set of swivels....only they will be in my disco 24spline axles that ill be prepping once with lsds ive got this going.
Thats all my brake pistons out and 1 caliper cleaned up for paint.
Had to drill 4 of them then tap them and screw a bolt in to push off the caliper its self they were solid.
Stainless on their way
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Some came out like at.
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Others had to see my friend mr meddings the drill.
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Then i tapped the hole and fitted a bolt. They came loose eventually. For the most part it was the metal seal ring had corroded to the piston.
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Masked off the feed and bleed nipple threads and painted the outside.....
Easiest way to mask off the bores? ....heavy grease in the bore enough or should i put the piston back in the bore ? Obviosuly this would work better if the top seal was stil in but i could clean that up with a stanley and some sand paper after , so long as the bore was clean.
Got all my polygushes fitted tonight as well , that just leaves the chassis ones to do when i fit the arms. Feels good assembling stufd instead of dismantling. Its like a giant jigsaw from here on in nearly. Only some of it doesnt have instructions......
Hopefully my paddocks order arrives tomorrow. Yrm won the courier race , they really have been top notch with the parts , you pay enough for delivery but you get your moneys worth, and when they sent me the wrong bit in one order they sorted it asap. And as long as i get gwyns delivery by the weekend.....i might be working towards a rolling chassis by sunday night if i can rope in some help this weekend
polybushes
did you go with those hard plastic ones?
Everyone I know who's used them found them tight and rattly, and breaky compared to OEM style rubber ones.
I did mine last few weeks (with rubber) Just got to fit the trailing arms this week. It rides so much better.
I though it was my bushes that were the cause of my wheel wobble, since the tyres were new. So I did all the bushes, and the steering damper, and got new swivels etc etc
Turns out it was none of that. Changing the bushes took the slop out, but the front still went light at 50mph.
Took the wheels in this morning to a guy I trust and he found them 300g out of balance! 😯
A lot of lead later and she's driving like a Bentley! Sweeeeeeettttttt!!!!!
If it they dont work ill change em back to metalastics.... But i got a set of superpros free still sealed up so it seemed rude not to use them.
I reckon just qbout anything including blobs of chewing gum or cut up bits of tioga tire would have been a significant improvement over the old bushes ill be honest.
Probably acounts for why it drove like an ikea wardrobe- i just hope that isnt why i liked driving it....the surprise of not knowing if you were going to make it in one bit.....although that said - for it being so shonky it only let me down once i. 8 months and that was a front prop uj dumping its guts on the road......a more versed mechanic than the young me at the time would have noticed it months before it happened......how ever i just grabbed a 9/16 out the back removed the front prop , stuck it in 4h and carried on 🙂
ah, well free is excellent value for money 😉
Not all polybushes are created equal. Superpro are the ones to have, we use them on the racers. Some of the cheap nasty polybushes can be as Stoner describes, especially the hard orange ones.