^^^ this.
On my Mmmbop I was fine with a top guide only, but my Troof needs a full guide as I keep losing the chain because I can, and am, ragging it harder.
WRT losing ones chain, I reckon there must be other variables - frame, drivetrain setup and gear choice. I can't remember the last time I lost my chain properly ([i]very[/i] occasionally it slips down onto granny but one pedal rotation and you're back) so I do wonder about people who insist a chain device is a necessity. My usual rides are peaks smash-a-thons too, so I don't think you can say it's a 'smooth road'.
Double and bash, 2x9 setup, XT front mech, no chain device.
No variables involved here other than this bike loves a good ragging so much it needs a proper chain device 😆
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The 'Forge' top only guide on it was fine on more normal bikes but this thing really does bring out the loon in me... loving it 
Despite the colour that looks awesome - like an early '70s Capri that's been to the tuners! Bet it goes downhill fast.
I'm using a bashring and top guide (N-gear) which is working fine so far but I don't know how much of that is down to the bashring. Presumably when you're hitting things hard you're on the right hand side of the cassette in the small cogs so you're more likely to lose the chain to the pedal side of the chainring - and a bashring stops that happening.
I lost my chain properly (very occasionally it slips down onto granny but one pedal rotation and you're back
Front mech acts as a chain device...
I'll +1 GeeTee's comments, wouldn't risk riding without one for the 50g or so penalty!
Only STW could use 1x9 as an elitist tool to look down their noses at other cyclists.
Front mech acts as a chain device...I'll +1 GeeTee's comments, wouldn't risk riding without one for the 50g or so penalty!
Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what people call a chain device. I was imagining everyone was using some sort of device (front mech, guide thingy) at the top but whether to run a roller at the bottom is up for debate. I don't think you need to.
Bottom roller definitely helps on rougher trails.
Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what people call a chain device. I was imagining everyone was using some sort of device (front mech, guide thingy) at the top but whether to run a roller at the bottom is up for debate. I don't think you need to.
The topic that generally comes up is whether you need anything at all. Some folk think not. I think so (albeit top only) for the reasons GeeTee said above.
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Why anyone has ever needed 27 or 30 gears has always baffled me
been running a 1x9 - granny gear up front. riding with my 8 year old son, so speed is sort of relative. anybody know of a guide that would work with -think its like a 26t. laugh, but for tight technical single track this is a great setup. looks like most of the full on dh specific creations start at a 32t.
in addition, have anti suck mabob, and the shark finger thingy keeping it from dropping inside. got bruises from spinning out on the out side however...
I'm not laughing - on my big bike with the HammerSchmidt I spend very little time in the overdrive (34 equivalent) which means I spend most of my time riding my granny (which is a 22)...
as a singlespeeder i find gears confusing. particulary the cross over bit.
1x9 means the only thought process is easier or harder gear. rather than eaiser or harder but would i find a more efficient chainline on the next chainring but 2 gears down/ up.
it allows my brain to get on with the terrain & the gear bit is instinctive - which i don't find with 2x9 etc. the difference being i enjoy gears 1x9 where with multiples i feel frustrated and they spoil the ride for me!!
if you a smarter than me this proably isn't an issue.
I occasionally miss the smaller gears when I'm struggling up a hill but likewise I really don't miss the bit where you need to change front and rear at the same time to avoid dropping too many gears at once.
What chain device?
I use my front mech with the high low adjust screws set to keep the cage in place.
I dropped the chain a lot with no guide - usually haring down rock-filled bridleways on my HT - I imagine it's much worse with rear suspension.
I have dropped/jammed the chain once with a top-only guide and was wondering about a bottom guide. But since taking another link out of the chain, the top-only has been perfect.
"I use my front mech with the high low adjust screws set to keep the cage in place."
That works too. I'm wanting a go on the new Hope setup (a jump-stop, ring, plus thin bash) - looks elegant compared to the E13 lump of plastic I'm currently using. I'd also like to try a clutched derailleur on it's own. So many options!
From bike radar:
We tested pre-production Type 2 samples on some of the highly entertaining (and often challenging) trails in Santa Cruz, California and came away tremendously impressed. Despite not having any sort of proper chain retention system on our Giant Reign and Yeti SB-66 test rigs, we never once came close to losing a chain even after countless jumps and eye-watering descents when we were chasing current and ex-pro riders and clearly in well over our heads.Moreover, Type 2 yields a gloriously quiet drivetrain. We intentionally ran test bikes in especially challenging 26-11t gear combinations on fast, bumpy trail with no chain slap to speak of – even on the Yeti and Giant's oversized aluminum stays. There's also no perceptible change in shift lever effort.
Good company.Thanks for the feed back. Irony is that the same bike (in my late 20s- 46 now) hit 60+ MPH on a 52t spinning (downhill). Guess maybe I will start calling it a Grandad gear to save some face. Tossed the front derailleur aside in disgust at some point, but sans cables, its probably all i need to stop slipping on the high side and avoiding groin contusion. Those new chain guides look pretty cool. I am running the shark finger appendage, anti suck and a tension-er (1997 vintage). Until I went single speed upfront, I NEVER dropped a chain. Pretty sure a nice newfangled dh chain guide would work and I could toss the extra parts. Only concern would still be chainslap, as my current tensioner bridges the gap between cranks and axle.
i have a 1x9 on my drop bar cannondale monstercrosser. i run a medium cage xtr mech on the back and a superstar xcr upper chain device up front. i works absolutely brilliantly. the sram 9-speed cassette has a good spread (can't remember the ratios off hand) and the dura ace bar end lever is a joy to use.
up until recently, i had three mountain bikes - an on one singlespeed, the cannondale 1x9 and my 30 speed turner flux. the on one was actually the most enjoyable to ride on account of it being so simple (just get on an pedal). for me it is a case of 'less is more', so i am finding i ride the 1x9 dale more than the flux, hence the flux being up for sale.
Superstar XCR looks like a straightforward and light piece. Thanks
