Powertap bearings are a piece of cake to change. 10 minutes tops, no need to send back to Paligap.
Has anyone bought from powermeters24 ?
Well took a punt on one of the cheap Powertap Pro's on the wiggle price drop. Held on and got it for £330 in the end, not bad I reckon, and all sold now. No issues whatsoever with the one I've had for about three years now. Going to build it up with an Archetype rim and some DT Swiss Competitions. That'll do nicely for the winter training bike 🙂
Has anyone bought from powermeters24 ?
I ordered one from them but they shifted the delivery date a couple of times so I cancelled the order.
It took about 8-10 emails and about a month before they refunded the order despite them saying it would be within a day or two!
Needless to say, I'd avoid them.
I see the 4iiii Precision PM's are sold out. Does anyone know if that's 'em just sold out of pre-orders or has product actually been delivered?
I didn't think 4iii were shipping till sometime in December, so assume that's pre-orders.
Yep, and they are sorting UK distribution from Spring 15 IIRC, so presumably there'll be a lead time until they're up to date. Bodes well.
Any idea who that's going to be? Just hope there's not some ridiculous UK markup.
I got my Stages from PM24. Came quickly enough, arrived on a Saturday. When I broke the battery cover, they posted a new one out same day, so great service IME. Battery cover clips are very tiny/fragile - I'd think about protecting it as above with an innertube if used off-road with rocks flying about.
The first battery lasted 4mths, based on 12-15h/wk of use (200h-ish?). I replaced it with a 'name' brand so hopefully it will last about the same (I've read somewhere that not all 2032 cells are created equal but who knows...)
I'd think about protecting it as above with an innertube if used off-road with rocks flying about.
Was thinking this about rocks. Crank arms lead a tough life and seem to get the most and biggest knocks from rocks. A cut down neoprene chainstay protector with a zip tie either side would work well?
A cut down neoprene chainstay protector with a zip tie either side would work well?
6" of inner tube is just as good and can be slipped over the crank with the pedal removed (unlike a chainstay protector). I used to seal both ends, bit that was overkill, now I tape the end nearest the BB for neatness. I added a Stages sticker for that pro look as well 😉
Any idea who that's going to be? Just hope there's not some ridiculous UK markup.
Not yet, can't see it being mainstream though, which is a shame. At the moment they will sell to Europe (unlike Stages, who never offered direct sales), so it may be prudent to get an order in now!
I'm waiting to see if I can get one at UK trade prices (assuming they compare favourably), if not I'll get one sent to a friend in the US!
Think I'll wait for the second batch. Doesn't seem too bad if you do import based on 399 dollars...
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I was thinking more if they do a Stages that may not be an option - sort UK distribution at a higher cost, then stop selling direct and force you to use their local distribution channels.
Agree that based on the present situation it all seems quite sensible. I'd get a pair though - you could install on two bikes, or have a proper double reading, and it's only $350 more.
Very interested in 4iiii and think two pods will be more than any of us mere mortals will need. 4iiii have an established background in producing outdoor electronics which Stages lacked. No doubt the latter will have to substantially reduce prices to stay competitive. I read that Stages have a possible 40% reduction built in and will maintain profit!
Can't wait for 2015 dog fight.
Hmm I have 3 power meters already and will probably get a two sided 4iiii if the reviews are positive!
So I spoke too soon, my PowerTap died today. Two new sets of batteries and no, bugger. Giving erratic readings constantly (generally very low) and drops out regularly. Torque tube?
looks like your cadence is dropping out at the same time as the power reading, so looks like a signal issue, HRM is stable so i guess you can rule out the Garmin, - don't know the ins and outs of the hubs, but assume this part is different to the torque tube?
That is a bugger. They are still doing their discounted G3 as replacements for broken old ones! Though must surely be cheaper to fix the PT P. Is it the old one (12mm) or the newer one (15mm) with the replaceable electronics pod thing?
Didn't really want to hear about broken powertap's right now seeing as I have a new one ready to build up. Oh well, if it lasts me a couple of winters I'll be happy with that.
looks like your cadence is dropping out at the same time as the power reading, so looks like a signal issue, HRM is stable so i guess you can rule out the Garmin, - don't know the ins and outs of the hubs, but assume this part is different to the torque tube?
Another use for Strava - diagnostics haha! Yep, HR fine. I don't know enough about them to be honest, but the default failure mechanism seems to be the torque tube, which from photos looks to just be all the internals! I'll have a bit more of a play, strikes me as odd that it's correct sometimes (albeit rarely).
Mrblobby I'd not worry - mines 5 years old, done thousands of miles with nothing more than bearings. I can't really complain if it's dead, just frustrating as i was so close to replacing it, now the dilemma of fix or bin!
low battery warning for stages again today
340km, about 20 hours of riding,
however its consistent with the last battery dying, i guess id get another couple of rides, never dies mid
ride, just doesn't connect on the next one,
numbers seem consistent since purchase,
Are you using cheap eBay batteries or anything?
nah duracell from tesco
Does it have the newer 'o' ring seal on the battery cover? As I understand it, the older ones were thinner and let water in either pre or post first battery change, leading to the power drain and warranty replacement. AFAIK the new seals are red not black.
My Stages battery went y'day after 20hrs from new. Calibrated, worked ok for 20mins then died.
Replaced battery, seal is red and all was dry. Updated firmware and crossing fingers.
Connecting via bluetooth to my bike made me laugh - whoever would have thought it.
red seal, muddy ride today, flashed up about 40km in, although ride from a couple of weeks ago in the peaks was wetter 92km mam tor/drs gate/cut gate - don't jet wash, and remove crank arm when washing bike - bone dry in the battery compartment
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If I tell you my new battery went you will see from ^^ that it lasted 16 hours.
Merlin will replace but say they have had a spate of battery issues since the latest firmware release (coincides with wet weather?)
Merlin 10% discount code till Monday (MERLIN10) which brings the 105 Stages down to 540 quid. Pretty good price.
I've been lurking on this thread for a while, so it's time to join in!
Has anyone on here had a go with a Rotor LT yet? Just looking for a real world review of how easy it is to calibrate, change batteries (if needed) etc.
I have the opportunity to get one at a good price, and having tried out the Vectors (dual sided) and previously ridden watt bikes I know I don't have a huge imbalance so left only doesn't bother me.
Battery replacement is just a threaded cover, CR2032s I think.
It's a good price, when you consider it includes a chainset. Won't work on a current carbon Trek though, if that's an issue.
I don't have a trek- but out of interest why won't it work??
I am eyeing up a groupset change anyway so it works out pretty cost effective if I don't buy a chainset.
I was tempted to buy the Rotor LT but it would have needed a new BB (to go from BSA to a 30mm axle) and they are quite pricey. I'd also want rings that matched the chainset (not entirely necessary expense but any of my current rings would look silly on it.) So the cost did mount up pretty quickly.
Interested to know why it wouldn't fit on a Trek too?
Good point on the rings, but for now I can just throw the current rings on there and ride them until they die or I win the lottery!
I need a new BB anyway, so not too worried about that- assuming I won't go for a ceramic one.
Interested to know why it wouldn't fit on a Trek too?
The 3D+ has a 30mm BB spindle, and you can't get bearings that fit in the Trek BB90 shell - not enough room.
Same for the RF Next SL, THM M3, Lightning etc.
Njee20 knows his stuff...
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I'll step in with my praise for the power2max.
Installed it mid August.
Connected immediately with my Garmin and does so every ride without me having to do anything (it also auto-zeros)
Have used it 5-6 days week since then in all weathers and on the turbo including one ridiculously wet ride for 5 hours where even my Hope light went mental due to water ingress!
Still working just fine, so very pleased with it.
Yeah, Trek BB90 has a 37mm inner diameter. Impossible to make a bearing which will take a 30mm axle. 24mm axle only for BB90.
Silly bottom brackets eh!
Slightly annoying it must be said, particularly as more and more frames are going to 30mm axles. Would've gone for Next SLs on my Superfly had it not been for that!
I must admit that until I started looking at power meters I hadn't appreciated what a minefield bottom bracket "standards" were.
A quick glance at that Rotor chart shows 13 BB standards but I think there may even be more around these days! I'm glad I had the luck/ foresight to stick with BSA frames!
Update on the 4iiii over at [url= http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/01/update-4iiii-precision.html ]dcrainmaker[/url]. Still not shipped. Getting there though.
Got the bill to repair my PowerTap today, £340... Boooo. Can't decide whether to tell them just to junk it 😕
That sucks! Any goodwill discount on a new one?
Crikey, you could replace it for not much more than that. What's broken? I'd junk it.
