I just ordered another 500 14G spokes from Central Wheel - they're always a bit, well, "random" on the phone
Is e-mail likely to be any better?
Spoke steel is not standard stainless
That's what I was afraid of.
could you not just weld a spoke to the other spokes where they cross?
Out of interest, how many spokes on that? ( normally, I mean?)
Oh, and thanks for all the help, nickjb (and others) on the custom flange. I've not ruled that out as in a way it looks an excellent solution taking the stress on the new plate rather than the existing flange. Just that if I can get a custom double ended spoke made it's a mush easier fix - I don't even need to rebuild the rest of the wheel (though I've already dropped the tension a bit). I've got no recent CAD experience (the last time I used it was I think autocad on a 286!), but I'm sure I could manage to work it out. In order to keep the correct spoke pattern I think I'd have to have both sets of holes one above the other rather than offset as you show (which should also keep much the same spoke length).
36 spokes normally - 35 at the moment 😉
You could even it out and lace it 32 3 cross . It would be plenty strong enough* but on reflection, which holes would you leave and you'd end up with at least 3 spoke lengths and it would look weird, and would probably stress it a bit much.... Bodge too far...?
* I've no idea how much you weigh, how much stick your giving the wheel...
I'd be leaving it, once it settles down probably won't make masses of difference
What about a little bracket off the nearby bolts like this:
[IMG] 
:original[/IMG]
nickjb - Member
This is the sort of thing I was thinking:
That's more or less what I was suggesting, just a DIY man in a shed with hand tools effort. You can do it yourself with a flat piece of stainless.
Start by scribing a circle the same as the PCD of your existing hub, and another for the new spoke holes. DIvide the circle up into 10º segments and punch mark where you want the holes. Then cut the steel. That's the laborious bit - I'd probably use a cutting wheel to rough it out. Then a few hours with a smaller grinder and files and you have the shape right. No point drilling the holes before this in case you scrap the steel. Don't forget to countersink the new spoke holes.
You'll have to bed it into the existing hub because there's probably an angle there. Epoxy and a suitable filler will do that job.
If an old disk was the right diameter, that may save some time, but more likely it will have pre-existing slots etc that interfere with your drillings.
DIvide the circle up into 10º segments
It's not a 72 spoke wheel 😉
f an old disk was the right diameter, that may save some time
I have an unused 140 I think - but even that will be too big even for this large flange hub (shd 92mm).
I was intending that the new spokes be between the old holes - should have been clearer.
Edit:
GeForce Junky - Member
What about a little bracket off the nearby bolts like this:
Actually that looks like an even better idea.
I was intending that the new spokes be between the old holes
Ah - but as I commented above, the new spoke holes need to be above the existing ones (unless I make a flange for both sides) so that the pattern is right.
Actually that looks like an even better idea.
That is what al said pages ago
That's what I was thinking. Two won't be much more expensive than one.unless I make a flange for both sides
Better if you are hand fettling, but not if you are going for a laser cut. For £20 is it really worth spending a few hours with a file 🙂Actually that looks like an even better idea.
Better if you are hand fettling, but not if you are going for a laser cut. For £20 is it really worth spending a few hours with a file
I agree - if I really can get one (or two) for £20 then that's a lot better than putting off making one myself for ages. I was originally thinking bodge (and actually coming round to al's idea - that would work with a bit of care), but either the new flange or the double ended spoke are a lot more elegant - currently still pursuing the latter.
I love how useful STW is for stuff like this - would never have come up with some of those ideas myself - thanks chaps.
Junkyard - Member
...if you are hand fettling, but not if you are going for a laser cut. For £20 is it really worth spending a few hours with a file
Well the hand fettling job could be over and done with tonight, and obviously the laser cut job would look neater, but where's the fun in that? 🙂
Well the hand fettling job could be over and done with tonight
if I had the right metal I'd be on it already, at least as an interim fix
I just ordered another 500 14G spokes from Central Wheel
Is there more than one "Central Wheel" in Birmingham, ben? I just had an email back from Central Wheel Components Ltd which said:
nobody has ordered a “load” of 14 Gauge spokes from CWC in eons
The place I tried is http://www.central-wheel.co.uk/ - is there some other company who does spokes I'm missing?
<bangs head against wall>
I can't believe I didn't try the obvious place earlier - it looks an awful lot like they'll be able to supply exactly what I need, and won't have an issue with selling me just one spoke (I've spent plenty of money there already!) I shall phone Roger tomorrow.
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-parts/spokes/penny-farthing-spoke-blanks.html
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/spoke-cutting-and-threading-service.html
