Torque wrench for carbon frame owner?

I've got a Norbar one. Purchased after my cheap Sealy 30 quid job damaged an expensive part. The quality is on a different level to the generic rebadged ones and it wasn't that much more expensive. I've also got a Park Tool beam-type tirque wrench that goes up to 60NM for pedals, bottom brackets, cassette lockrings etc and its also a lovely tool.

I have a rebadged (lifeline i think) £30 job and it's been fine for the 8 or so years i've had it. i do take it to work occasionally just to check its calibrated though.

if it dies, i'd get a Halfords Advanced 1/4 drive, 4-20Nm. I think they are made by Norbar for them, or they look incredibly similar, plus the lifetime warranty.

Both would be suitable for a carbon frame owner. Apparently torque is the same on metal or plastic frames.

The main one we use is a no brand fixed 5Nm thing like this:

I have a Ritchey one - a fixed 4nm or 5nm version is available <br /> https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/4nm-ritchey-torque-key-set

...

I have the Lifeline Pro one (3-15Nm) and Halfords/Norbar one (12-60Nm). Both go both ways.

The Lifeline Pro is good value on sale as it's the same generic one that lots of compaines put their badge on.

Norbar make the stuff that test the other stuff.

The Topeak torq bits in a 4,5,6nm set are nice to use, they have a faint click but release when torque is reached even if you keep turning your Allen key or wrench the torq bit won't turn with it, it's a cool safety feature, as for exotic, the new red feedback 1nm-14nm looks real nice.

that goes up to 60NM for pedals, bottom brackets, cassette lockrings etc

You actually torque those things? Tight then a nip does for that shiz

I'll use a torque wrench (sometimes) on the finer stuff that's sensetive to being over tightened

I have one in a blue box... Can't mind the brand.

As for pedals. Nip them up then pedal.

The money no object option is a Norbar, will last a lifetime and there not re branded Chinese crap.

I've got the PC one. Works fine. I bought it to make sure I wasn't over torquing bar clamps onto a carbon bar. It seemed immediately pointless when I was adjusting stuff trailside with a multitool.

I use a Teng 3/8" for bigger stuff. Glad I used it on my RaceFace cranks as I would have given up long before it clicked at 60nM.

The only time I use one now is for pivot bolts that bear onto the bearings. The bearing don't seem to last long enough as it is so killing them off with excessive preload is something I'd like to avoid if I can. 

Norbar. Different class to other stuff and can be recalibrated every so often if needed.

Carbon frame makes it easy without fancy tools. Just apply torque up until you hear the cracking. Then back off and retighten just a little bit less - hey presto.

I’ve a park one and a jobsworth one - both on the 15nm ish range. They both work the same and seem pretty close in terms of calibration.

I suspect though that fast forward a decade and the park one will be just like is it now and the jobsworth in the bin but I might be wrong

Cheers all, have taken a punt on this set, I’m a sucker for a perceived bargain.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/lifeline-pro-torque-set-with-4-5-6nm-bits

I have a Leyzene torque drive, I really
Like it for stems etc. No clicky, but it’s easy to use once you get the knack.

£45 ish, but a lovely piece of kit.

Stahlwille 96501001 1/4" Electromechanical Torque Wrench 1Nm - 10Nm ?

I mean, it is a super duper fancy exotic carbon bike isn't it ?. Hardly want something you can get off ebay for 30 quid

I have the PX one and get it tested at work every year when they do our annual inspection.

Not sure I see the relevance of the carbon frame. The only area where that makes any difference is the seat post clamp isn't it?
I just use a cheap 1-14nm and it has been fine for 10+ years. It may not be 100% accurate but a lot of things are 4nm where in contact with carbon bars, carbon seat post, carbon steerer etc,. and the important thing I learnt after my first go using a torque wrench at 4nm was that I was doing everything up too tight and I can now feel what 4nm feels like.

Not sure I see the relevance of the carbon frame.

Agree - it’s more “lightweight components” where torque becomes more important - E.g. nice stems where a small bolt is tightening into Al threads - too much torque can strip the threads, too little allows the stem to slip, hence a torque wrench to be more consistent.

Unless you mean my earlier “torque until you hear the cracking then back off” which was just a (poor) joke

Had a lifeline one for 10 years until I snapped a seat post binder set to 4nm. Bought a Probike Tool one and realised the lifeline one was completely inaccurate.

After having a series of the cheap and cheerful ones which eventual failed in one way or another, I decided to up the ante and get Wera.

This one was £135 back in June

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GZK73TQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Recently my bigger wrench for the higher torque items also went pop I got another Wera.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B7VSKC1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

The quality is exceptional and worth every penny IMHO.

I do have a 25-135 Nm Britool for car stuff, which I don't do much of, and in half a  century of cycling I've not wrecked much with ham fistedness, so once I get a feel for whatever 4/5/6 Nm feels like I don't think it'll get used all the time. I do like the idea that the widget sits between the wrench and the bit, so I can just take that along on rides in the multitool pouch.

Guessing this is one of the rebadged ones that people are reffering to.

But as a daily user of 'proper tools' in my job (big torque wrench of choice is Halfords Professional), there's absolutely nothing wrong with this

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So... is that Pro wrench still the one?

Just tightened a bolt to 6nm with mine, then realised it should be 8nm... my old torque wrench didnt register a difference.... Think its tine to replace

I've a Park Tools beam torque wrench. Good range and size. Already had compatible sockets so wasn't too expensive.

Snap on for the silly 35nm the derailleur needs on my carbon frame. Tried tight and nip, wasn't tight enough. Got it from a reputable shop at unreputable price (was shop soiled).