Haven't tried it in mph. It didn't do it when fitted to my Orange yesterday! I wonder if it is interference where some wires are crossing? I will try re-routing. Speed sensor is close to the magnet already
Just spinning the wheel in the workstand shows 99.9kph
Solved. Sensor was too close to the magnet!
Well I was sort of right 🙂
First ride this evening when I rode it home from work. Mostly left it in tour mode (level 2) except when I overtook a couple when I turned it off - pedals really rather well without assistance. 32km and no bars used on the battery indicator - must have infinite range!
Impressed by how smooth it is. It would be nice if you could put the actual wheel circumference into the software so that the speed is accurate but that is a minor niggle.
I do need to find a way of mounting a waterbottle as I'm going to find it rather annoying not having one.
the battery indicator unfortunatly is not very good. It stays on full for ages then drops quite quickly
the battery indicator unfortunatly is not very good. It stays on full for ages then drops quite quickly
Noted!
the battery indicator unfortunatly is not very good. It stays on full for ages then drops quite quickly
Can you change the chemistry in the menu?
LiFePO4 batteries are only 3.2, and conventional lithium batteries are 3.6-3.85 depending on various factors like electrolyte chemistry, anode coatings, internal resistance, and what protection they have.
Lithium batteries have a relatively flat discharge curve over the middle 80% or so, so if you pick the wrong chemistry then you won't drop below that first 10% being used until you hit the far end and there's only 10% left.
Not that I am aware although there are folk who mod the firmware who might be able to do something.
I have been using mine for the 7 mile ride to work with 1000ft ish of climbing and do it all in turbo. first round trip - full charge still on display. Second drops to 4, 3rd drops to 1 or 2 and cuts power. Its certainly not linear and shows some charge left when actually the voltage has dropped enough to mean full power is not available.
Most folk will not ride it like this tho I guess
Mine is showing 4 out of 6 bars remaining after 60km
Thats the difference between turning it up to 11 and not!
Full Member
Thats the difference between turning it up to 11 and not!
True! Anyway, have done 90km on initial charge and rather than risk it running out on the 25-30km ride back to work in the morning I've put it on charge 🙂
Having had mine on a power supply and adjusted the voltage, it sits on full bars until the battery is at about 50%.
My battery had a seperate indicator, which is fortunate (and theoretically a Bluetooth module but I can't get the app to work.)
I can get 40 miles but not pushed it further than that
My battery had a seperate indicator,
I've just remembered that mine has too! I should probably have checked that 🙂
I'm going to time how long it takes to fully charge and that should give me a rough idea of how much capacity I used.
Did anyone try the Indiegogo thing that was posted? Seems like it would be lighter and a bit less "wirey".
Did anyone try the Indiegogo thing that was posted? Seems like it would be lighter and a bit less “wirey”.
I didn't look to be honest
Oh and it turns out that I can fit a bottle cage thanks to a zip tie 🙂
Fat boy fat. It's a much smaller battery and not the most powerful motor
I find that the indicator on the battery behaves similarly in that the last bit disappears quickly
I find that the indicator on the battery behaves similarly in that the last bit disappears quickly
Its because these things base the indicator on the voltage of the battery, and the voltage does this during discharge:
So not much use then as an indicator of charge.
Electric cars and more intelligent devices have more intelligent battery management, that will understand the usage so far, the current drawn over time and will make much better estimates based on how long it lasted last time etc.
To be fair, the last bar on the battery scale is 0-49% so it's not THAT helpful 🙂
Although I tend to recharge when I feel the assistance drop off
Quick 500km update...
All good so far. I've got it wet, I've got it muddy and it hasn't skipped a beat. Power delivery is lovely and smooth, it is just like riding a normal bike but with a nice tailwind 🙂
I did use self amalgamating tape over the connections between the battery & motor, hopefully that'll help keep moisture out. The battery connection to the frame has been rock solid.
Be nice if it assisted at higher cadences but I'm getting used to using a gear or two higher than I usually would. I've been charging once a day (so after 50-70km depending on route)
The only real niggle is the q-factor - it is huge and also offset to the drive side. I will probably try a Shimano steps rh crank arm to even things up a bit.
Somebody asked about the Italian indiegogo, I am on this, eta is now Jan. Have high hopes for it as a lightweight battery efficient assistance. I'm getting a custom ISIS shaft with the kit to fit the supplied 104bcd freewheel cranks onto my fatbike HT2 BB.
ETA tjagain, its equivalent 90nm and they have batteries up to 840wh, although I will source UK batteries for mine. Aiming for 1.6kg motor plus 3ish kg 500wh battery myself.
Ref q factor - can't say I've really noticed it.. apparently the bafang crank arms bring it in a bit. Mines a 63mm BB - small spacer on the DS so the drive cover doesn't hit the EBB body, and the rest of the spacers on the NDS.
I also had to get creative with cut down roofing bolts to secure the torque arm
richardthird
Ta for the info - I obviously either muddled it up with something else or didn't get all the info.
I don't notice the q factor at all but then I don't on the fatbike either. Maybe one of those things some folk notice and some do not?
Tech is moving quick on these isn't it!
remember there is a hidden setting to adjust the torque sensor sensitivity.
Is that the setting that is set as 16 by default?
yes
16 is 16 amp current limit. You can go higher but risk burning it out. Depends what battery is rated at as well.
No its not. I have seen this myth online but its not so
What this setting does is adjust the sensitivity of the torque sensor. As standard on 16 you only get max power out of the motor when pedalling hard. the higher the number you set it to the more sensitive the torque sensor is. Turn it right up and it acts like a cadence sensor ie turn the pedals with no force and you get max power out of the motor immediately. I have mine turned up a bit. Its still progressive in power output but you get max power out of the motor when you are peddling with normal cruising force. turn it down and you need to really jump on the pedals to get the motor to produce max power
Adjusting this setting does NOT change the power output of the motor at all - it just alters the relationship between the torque you put on the pedals and the torque the motor puts out but you still have the same max torque output.
800 miles in. Lockring came off on a ride over xmas. Tapped up tight with a drift and some loctite.
All the nuts holding the battery tray together rattled lose - fortunately they stayed captive, but bit random,.
Chain is about 60% worn, which is impressive.
However, its knocking - i thought it was the motor moving slightly, but all tight. Turns out its the BB bearings as there is play in the crank.
So need to work out how to replace those, without messing up the torque sensor or the wiring.
Just discovered this:
They do some smart TSDZ2 bits, including a nice display:
https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p157/SW102.html#/
and some lights
https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p70/TSDZ2_Light_Set.html#/
and also some nice, albeit pricey, chainrings
Bummer on the BBbearings. I am at almost 1000 miles now with no problems - used in turbo on the road
I am fairly sure spares are available.
I've seen a vid on YouTube of someone changing bearings. Mine hasn't been used for a while, been off the bikes.
A little reading suggests its common and is poor tolerance in the shell/bearing.
I currently can barely get to my workbench in my shed as it's full of decorating equipment, a door and a half started kids bike project (and a Jeffsy with no shock fitted that's a pain to move)
Need to sort that lot out and then I'll get the Rig on the stand and take the BB apart and report back 🧐
Someone was asking about sealing on these. I took the side cover off - the bit that covers the electronics and motor and was impressed that it had a proper o ring seal in the cover.
I read somewhere they are IP44?
Well, the shed is tidy and I have a list of bikes to spanner, so hopefully I can get the bike apart and work out what I need to do.
It's working fine though, but definitely needs some general TLC. I think several months of wet commutes hasn't done it much good 😉
After a new offset 42 max chainring. Has anyone seen a source that isn’t £85?!
I thought they took standard chainrings or are you looking to have a different chainline?
You can, but they come stock with an offset chainring to improve the chainline
Ah - I just had a good look at mine and you are right
Superstar sell them for about £30 to £35 but depends on which fitment it is their stocks look low. Could be worth emailing to ask about availability.
The superstar chainrings are 4 Bolt and it looks like the offset is in the thickness / bolts rather than at the teeth to clear the motor
Did you ever get round to changing the bearings on yours @tim ?
Mine are in need of replacing now.
simon - has it got worse? Mine had a tiny bit of play from ew that felt like a knbackered BB but 1000 miles on its still the same
I've only just noticed the play @tjagain to be fair. Was just cleaning chain & cassette and fitting a new gear cable and brake pads.
Will keep an eye on it.
simondbarnes
Full Member
Did you ever get round to changing the bearings on yours @tim ?
Mine are in need of replacing now.
Disassembly is fairly easy, just be careful with the torque sensor assembly. The bolts are a bit cheesy / shallow so take care.
I didn't do anything with the torque sensor but replaced the LH BB bearing and the sprag clutch.
The BB bearing is really easy as the tolerances are shite so it just floats on the axle and in the shell. I used a fair amount of retaining compound and made a big difference.
If you want to replace the sprag clutch you need to remove the final drive gear. I needed to use a gear puller to remove it, using the spider to pull on.
The sprag clutch needed pressing out on a fly press at work. If you have access to any sort of press or bearing puller it should be fine. I wouldn't smash it out.
Give me a shout if you need help
Cheers 🙂
Oh:
Final drive comes off first as the gear puller pushes on the end of axle, then the circlip can come off and the BB assembly comes out of the LH side.
