[Closed] Superstar hubs bearing replacement

Try tightening up those end cap bits with the wrench flats on them; could/should remove the play/

Sorry to be a bit simple but by the end you mean the silver part if so is there a specific tool to loosen/ tighten them? Not sure how tight they are but I can’t get them off using pair of grips either side

THe silver and black part, I imagine it's all one piece. You can see the wrench flat on the black part; there'll be one on the opposing side of the black part aswell, for a wrench to grip. Tighten this slightly. You'll need to hold the one on the opposite side of the hub to tighten it otherwiser it will just spin. You may need a cone spanner to tighten it. It might remove the play. If not, you need to untighten it till you can remove the axle. You'll also need to remove the QR skewer, cassette and freehub body. Although it depends which bearing the play is in, it might just be in the NDS bearing in which case you might not need to take everything apart. If the cone spanners dont work on the wrench flats then you may have to insert an allen key into each end of the axle to take it apart. Those are the two common variations for cheap hubs. It mgiht be easier to take it to a bike shop. Or, just get stuck in and just start untightening bits, that's all it's a case of, fairly straight forward.

Ive managed to get the whole assembly apart safe to say it was tight!! That being said it is bone dry and play in the bearing if leave on the shaft and rock the outer race. Is it easy to get replacement bearings??

Yeh, there should be a number written on the bearing seals, try googling or ebaying it or just google superstar hub bearings if you know the hub model. You will need to bash them out of the hub shell with a hammer and screw driver. To fit the new ones you'll need a socket piece that's approx the same size as the outer race of the bearing. If you have some vernier calipers you could measure the bearings yourself if you can remove them from the hub.

Thanks for all your help David. I’ve already got them out. This is the front one I have done but presume back will be almost the same if not the same... I hope. The wheels are really old so struggle to find the hub model but the bearing are probably a standard size I should of guessed.

The back bearings will be a different size I reckon. Yeh, do the front as an easier introduction as the back wheel is a bit trickier. There'll be four bearings in the back, 2 in the hub, 2 in the freehub body (probably). I'd suggest just nipping up the black wrench flat bits slightly if you can as it might remove the play. Worth a go anyway. If you're buying new bearings, buy more than you need as they're usually only a couple of quid and there's a chance you might cock up installing one of them.

They're cartridge bearings in there. If there is play, then tightening them likely won't help like it does with cup and cone type bearings as the play is in the bearing itself generally. They shouldn't be squashed hard by the end caps, just nipped up.

Replace them. I think you need cone spanners to loosen the qr adaptors. I had those hubs and seem to recall that there is a lock nut. Undo that then I think they screw out or pop out.

Tap the bearings out evenly from either side with a rod/stout screwdriver. Get the code and get new ones from Simply bearings for example.

Stick the new ones back in, tapping them in with a socket as a punch to avoid damaging the seals.

Thanks for the help guys. I’ll get some new bearing ordered and like you say try just tightening the rears will hopefully rectify it. If not I’ll probably be back for help ahaha

Another tip that's always worked for me is put the new bearings in the freezer for a while as apparently physics means metal contracts when cooled and the cooling effect of a decent Zanussi might be all that's needed to contract them enough to make installation a bit easier. A bit of grease on the outer race should help them slide in. THen use a socket as Kayak23 suggests to tap them in. Make sure you don't tap the inner race or the rubber seal as this can damage them and make them feel notchy before they're even fitted hence why I said buy a few.

Yeh, back ones are a bit more involved as you'll need to remove the cassette and freehub and then once you done that you'll have pawls springing out all over the place. When I get round to building my dream home I'm planning on have a bike maintenance room that's painted white floor to ceiling. No page three stunners on the walls, no maxxis babes, no beer fridges, just pure brilliant white paint. Finding missing pawls springs and loose ball bearings will be a walk in the park.

Hahahaha drives me insane David. Had it plenty of times with headsets ect bearings everywhere.