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Yet another question about sram cranksets.
Mine was a pain to get off and stop clunking. Think it is now solved by replacing the bottom bracket, although I noticed my pre load adjuster is loose on the axle and just spins when trying to adjust it if not careful.
Tried to establish if if should be glued into the crank arm or pressed on somehow but can’t get a definitive answer.
I’ve spend 8 quid on a new adjuster to see if it comes with any instructions - it doesn’t - but it does have two threaded bits that the adjuster screws onto. One with a flange that is for the X01 (my) crankset apparently.
I’ll take it all apart again soon but before I do does anybody know for definite how the damn thing is/should be installed.
Thanks.
When adjusting the pre-load, don't fully unscrew the tiny pinch bolt; just back it off enough for the adjuster to turn. If you loosen it too much, then the adjuster opens up too far and is likely to feel like it's stripped a thread... it hasn't!
Do you need to put a spacer on the drive side to reduce the amount of "slack" that the adjuster needs to take up?
When adjusting the pre-load, don’t over tighten the tiny pinch bolt; just tighten it up enough for the adjuster to stay put. If you tighten it too much, then the the pinch bolt is likely to feel like it’s stripped a thread… it has!
The whole adjuster is loose, including the threaded section it screws onto.
I did tighten it slightly to grip the axle and allow the preload to be applied without it moving but it seems a bit Heath Robinson and all the videos and guides I’ve seen suggest the threaded section is captive on the axle, flat against the crank.
Beamers- I have a chain guide that takes up 2.5mm on the drive side so have just used the 2mm snap in spacer on the external of the drive side cup.
It all seems to nip up ok now tbh, I’m just seeking clarification on the pre load adjuster itself really.
Yep, I've just checked a spare crank and the threaded section is indeed captive on the axkle:
Maybe its stuck on with the same loctite / witchcraft that SRAM use to hold the self extracting bolt caps in place?
Haha. Cheers Beamers.
One of the videos I’ve seen - which I now can’t find - had a comment from a chap saying he uses the drive side crank to press that threaded bit home initially by tightening it with the adjuster wound out so it pushes the threaded bit into the crank.
Sounds very dodgy to me and a recipe for cracking plastic, hence my initial question.
I suspect evil glue is used, like elsewhere in their cranksets (as you’ve found. Lol ) but am just surprised I can’t find anything that relates to installing them.
Maybe if it is glued, most people just have to replace the moving preload outer ring as it is likely the bolt locking thread that’s goosed.
I think you just press it on. I have swapped one and can't recall any difficulty in getting the old one off and pressing a new on one. I think I used the spanner flats to get the old one moving then it popped off. No glue or any evil witchcraft needed for the new one.
Your one should come off easily if it's spinning anyway. Clean it all up and put a new one on and you should be fine.
Cheers, I’ll have a look this weekend and post my findings for future people searching.
Bet it’s blatantly obvious and I’ve not clocked it at the time it was in bits.