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K, I have a drivetrain consisting of:
X5 2x10 (28-42) crank
x7 3x9 FD (high band, top)
x7 2x10 LONG RD (carbon 2012 if that makes a difference)
x7 2x10 triggers (2012)
shimano 11-36 10sp slx cassette
KMC 10 speed chain
Jagwire lined outer. (loose on a roll from LBS, pink lining)
Bike with quite short chainstays (Chameleon)
I made a hash of chain fitting and accidentally took a link too many out, as a reselt won't quite do the bottom 36 cog from the big ring - I was going to live with this.
My issues:
1. I can't quite get rid of FD rub. Am I going to need to jsut change the FD for a shorter 2x10 unit? It's wider and longer than it needs tobe right now.
2. I'm have a general mare with RD accuracy. It's not too bad downshifting (although my old chunky M750 XT RD was far more accurate) but the upshifts!!! click. click. click. WHAM! many gears at once. Not particulary predictable and runs slightly skippy until it finally goes. Not enjoyable to ride. Annoyingly, it's the upper middle of the cassette that's most affected - so you can in effect get dumped from a highish 20 low gear to very nearly top - which is very bad for speed and flow. RD has been set for limits only, no other settings made out of box. I've had to make very heavy use (to the point of almost looking daft) of the Low screw to get it to cover far enough in to line up with the big cog.
Everything (apart from the 3x9 FD) was brand new about 10 days and maybe 100 miles ago. It all seemed to work pretty well (apatr from the 36x42 being out of reach) for the first day or two and has gone downhill rapidy from there.
As the shifting is so much worse shifting up than shifting down I'm wondering if I have a cable routing issue or maybe a sticky cable. There are no stupidly tight cable radiuses on the bike. The Outer over the RD body has a slight bow in it - I'm told SRAM DiRT RD's can be particularly sensitive to this sort of thing?
Any suggestions would be most welcome - right now I'm gutted, and the bike is barely rideable across town and bridleway, certainly isn't upto offroading. I was expecting a learning curve and being a bit slower than 3x9 to begin with but not this much trouble...
Get the rear mech off and check the alignment of the hanger. Align it if it needs it and refit the mech. Sight the mech from the back of the bike closely in a selection of sprockets at the rear. Check if anything looks odd alignment-wise in different gears and if the jockey wheels seem to run further and further out of alignment with each gear change then you may have a tweaked mech. Also check how the cages of the rear mech line up with the sprockets in (vertically,if you follow me) different gears as well. Are they running fairly parallel to the largest sprocket as well as at the other end of the cassette? Have a sight of it in as many different ways as you can and make your mind up on how its all looking.
Also check that yer LBS sold you 1.1mm inner cables,not 1.2mm. They can jam up in the shifters amongst other things.
The inners are the ones that Mr SRAM fitted before putting the triggers in the box.
Good point about checking for increasing runout, hadn't considered that possibility.
At the low end, the jockeys seem to line up ok as at the top.
Shall take a look when I get back in...
Cables attatched to the correct side of the pinch bolts on both mechs?
Hi guys,
I am a newbie, got the bike last December 2011 and have not ridden more than 100 miles yet.
I have a similar problem with a 2x10 SRAM X.5 setup.
Attached is a picture to illustrate it as it's been very frustrating for me.
The issue is that my front 2x10 FD doesnt shift from the granny to the big chain ring smoothly. There is a lot of chain grinding, as in several seconds(if it even shifts successfully), or the chain overshifts and falls off to the crank arm. Which of course you have to get off the bike and fix the chain. It doesn't matter what the gear setting is on RD, whethere on the smallest or largest cog, the problem occurs.
I brought it to my Local Bike Shop where I bought the X5 set. They can't fix the problem no matter what. The reason they're giving me is that the bottom part of the FD (shown in RED circle) hits the chain stay (in GREEN circle) such that they can't position the FD lower onto the crankset. Therefore, the lowest possible position of the FD still shows about a quarter-inch to half-inch clearance of the FD to the big chain ring (YELLOW circle). I hope I am still making sense.
They say that the FD is too far from the chainring that no matter how they adjust the FD, it just really will not be possible to shift smoothly. They said that the geometry of the chainstay on the Giant Talon 1 2012 29er made it incompatible.
The solution I was given is to find a smaller FD (they showed me an X9 which was indeed smaller) or cut the X5 FD and weld it again to make it smaller.
My question is, are they right about the cause of the shifting problem?
Second, what is the best solution?
you can view the picture here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/83726390@N02/7666081532/in/photostream
HELP PLEASE GURUS!
[img] http://www.flickr.com/photos/83726390@N02/7666081532/in/photostream [/img]
If the front mech is wide then putting a 'normal' one on may cause more rub...I thought all front nexus had same spacing.