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So I've finally decided I want to change my wheel size to 650b instead of 26inch
I'm going to use this opportunity to have a go at wheel building as there's nothing wrong with my hubs, it's just the wheel size that's wrong
I've been on to prowheelbuilder.com and calculated spoke lengths, which is where I get a bit confused.....
E.g it says I need 273.4 for the left and 275 for the right, I guess if the spokes I'm looking at include 19mm nipples I subtract that from the length of the spokes I.e I buy 255mm spokes?
Also how much adjustment each way would I get from 19mm spokes? Do 255mm spokes give me a length of 264-274mm
I have pro2 evo hubs and want to fit arch mk3 650b rims
Just a bit lost when it comes to spokes and where to buy them
Most spoke length calculators assume you are using 12mm nipples, so you need to subtract 7mm from the spoke length. Side note- I have not come across 19mm nipples before, are you sure that is correct?
Sorry, no 19mm isn't correct I couldn't remember what length they were so just guessed for the sake of the example
So I should be looking for spokes around 267mm for the front (273.4mm and 275mm)?
I'm also assuming 3 cross?
Spoke calculators include the nipple length - no need to adjust
If if calculator says 273.4 and 275 I should be trying to buy 274mm spokes?
Have you read the book yet?
Do that first. Or you'll end up with the wrong spokes and a crap wheel.
(there are other books/guides, Mussons is probably the most complete)
So I ask a simple question on wether spoke length on calculator includes nipples, and if quoted length when buying includes nipple, and I get told I have to buy and read a book.... :-s
I guess if the spokes I'm looking at include 19mm nipples I subtract that from the length of the spokes I.e I buy 255mm spokes?
No
TBF, you really should read get the Musson book and read a coupe of chapters esp. the one on actually building. It will save you a lot of time and trouble.
Spoke calculators shouldn't include the length of the nipple in the spoke, they should ask what length nipple you intend to use and then work with that. As above, 12mm is standard.
You can get away with using measurements off the internet for hubs if they are sometthing common like a Hope although you really should measure your own as there are a lot of rubbish measurements posted on the internet. Always measure the ERD on the wheels yourself, there's plenty of potential for variation between rims.
Reasons for doing all this: You *can* get a wheel out of any old spoke lengths within several mm of what you should have, but the closer to 'right' you have the easier your build will be and the closer dish will be to what it should be before you have to spend hours truing and dishing.
The Masson book has by far the simplest lacing diagrams of any reference source I've used.
It's not the bible though, but it is good. 🙂
And yes, spoke calculators already include the nipple.
I've rounded up to 2mm before now, & had no issues.
Only because I'm too tight to buy new spokes. 🙂
I've always re-used old ones.
Have you ground yourself a nipple driver yet ?
An old flat blade screwdriver will do, doesn't have to be bent.
Occurs that the same answer is being given in two different ways here - to be clearer:
If a spoke calculator tells you a spoke length, that's what you should try to use.
You should have already told the spoke calc what size nipples you plan to use (or it should have a standard that it tells you).
You'll almost certainly need to round spoke lengths to get actual available lengths: this is basic maths but there are some considerations to do with wheel building. Agree that you can take some big liberties with lengths, but if you do, try to be consistent across the spoke lengths for the wheel rather than have one set of spokes much longer than the rest - which usually you can deal with, but won't be as easy as if they were in the same relative range.
I'm also a reuser if they're not obviously damaged 🙂
Round up/down to the nearest spoke length. Try and avoid rounding my over 1mm.
Most spoke calcs assume 12mm nipples, if you get Sapim Polyax then the 14mm has the same thread length as a 12mm anyway, the square section is just longer to help clear thick spoke bed carbon rims.
I found the ERDs on my Arch Mk3's to be spot on. I would advise you measure. Also +1 to the Musson book.
Also make sure you copy the existing lacing of your current wheels so the spokes sit in the same pattern on the hub flanges. They may require flipping the wheel and building from the disc side but the book now does cover alternative orientations as it's been massively updated over the years.
PS on pro-2 evos you can normally get away with the same size spokes on each side and front and rear. I think I used 262 all round on my 26" Arch Mk3's.
For spokes I normally use JRA or Bike 24 for Sapim D-lights. I did look at Ryanbuildswheels but he doesnt seem to do the d-light online. Probably should have tried calling him as I noticed afterwards he does mention them on his wheel build page.
ACI double butted from Cyclebasket are the best value IMO.