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The new 2013 Kashima Fox Float 150s CTD 15mm 1 1/8th for my new bike build the cotic bfe. £650 worth it ? never had 150s ive got 160s and had 140s anyone tried these out ? let me know if i should go for it cheers!!
what ya rek people!
Nah, BFe deserves shorter forks.
'myself'
34's ftw
If you got the money sure why not! Personally, I would go for a set of pikeys (454's) on the bfe although a bit heavy.
i need some more advice guys! basically my riding style is xc / freeride / downhill. i do own an alpine 160 so im making the bfe into an agressive hardtail " short stem wide bars " n all that ;p ive had 140s before and got 160s currently so would like to try the 150s, anyone else agree? i dont want 160s cause it would make it to heavy, i want it a nice strong build but keeping it light also for the xc 🙂
I have a 36 Float RC2 on my Bfe, which I run at 140mm, with 50mm stem and 740mm bars. I found this to be perfect and felt anything over 140mm a bit too much.
Buy my Bomber 44 RC3 ti 150s, plusher, stiffer, all round betterer than FOX 32 150s according to almost everything you read.
ive always been into fox forks, i like em, after white ones anyway, i think 150`s will be fine, a cotic takes any fork up to a 160, i know what a 160 feels like so to keep it light reason i choose a 150, it should be fine tbh
I've got 32 150's on my crush, get a lot of judder on the front braking, maybe 150 be. A bit too long for 32's
I bought some 2013 talas 150 34's perfect on the five, will try em on the crush, these are currently limited to factory built bikes at the moment.
2 folk suggest shorter forks so save the coin and get 140mm forks...
150mm Float is a bad call IMO, too long to let the bike work well as an allrounder but pretty flexy for the descents, neither one thing nor t'other.
I ran my BFe with a set of u-turn Revelations... Rockshox have binned u-turn for the Rev now I think so it'd mean buying used or old stock, but they suited it well. Could certainly have gone stiffer/stronger though, they were about the least sturdy fork I'd consider for it, but the height adjust was well worth it.
Not this years but a hell of a lot cheaper.
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FOFO32FRL/fox_32_float_rl_150mm_suspension_fork
hmm 140s u say, im not really sure what to get, has to be 1 1/8th steerer though, could look into the float 140s ctd kashima coat in white? cant see the 150s being much of a problem rather than the 140s , never had 150`s thought id try different, keep the comments coming , it will help cheers!
Nah, BFe deserves shorter forks.
Yup. 150-160mm is great when you think you need it (you probably don't though) but less than ideal for almost all riding. 120-140mm works best but if you insist on having as much travel as possible then a travel adjustable fork would be a good compromise. [url= http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/10116/Rockshox_Lyrik_2Step_Air_Forks_2009?gclid=CO7N9OrB07QCFU3HtAodWDEAcw ]These [/url]are white, but not fox, and under £400.
Go for something around 120mm on the BFe, 150 is going to feel awful.
If you have that kind of coin to spend you could get some custom Revelations made up by LoCo with U-Turn and the latest damping.
nah i like fox forks always have, i think ill just go for the 140s kashima in white CDT, plus it will be lighter than the 150s also,
it will be a 140 (32) i take it?
Chipping in again, whilst I was saving for a 36 Float, I ran mine with a 120mm 409 Argyle I had going spare, and it didn't feel right IMO - too short... although I guess this is all about personal preference.
well yeh but it sounds like the bfe runs better with a 140 fork from what people are saying, if im using it for xc thats good for climbs and it being light and 140 is fine for am/dh, ive got an alpine that uses 160 and thats fine so i guess i can just go for the 140 stay on the light side
Why do your posts change font?
yup, having run mine at 120, 140 and 160, the middle is definitely best.
I wouldn't buy a current Fox fork with that new very linear spring rate, especially with a long fork on a hardtail - far too wallowy. I have 2010 Float 32 140s on my Soul which work well because they ramp up quite a lot, so you get about 100mm (inc sag) of travel which gets used much of the time and about 40mm of "aarghh I really screwed that up but somehow survived it" travel. I'd also be inclined to use a stiffer fork on a stiffer frame like the BFe.
bleh prob go for a 150 despsite what people say, end of say its my bike and my own custom build, it will look great n ride like a beast, my mate ran a 150 on his piglet said it was fine so cant be that bad
[i]i need some more advice guys![/i]
What you really wanted was everyone to say "They'll be great, go for it!"
😉
What you really wanted was everyone to say "They'll be great, go for it!"
And they didn't, so you ignored them 😕
This was very true:
Go for something around 120mm on the BFe, 150 is going to feel awful.
32mm + 150mm = flexeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Go for 34s or 36s or some shorter travel forks
My brain hurt trying to read that.
I'd suggest purchaseing this off Amazon ahead of the new forks.
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I've got some shiny new taper 150 fox's on my Rocket and they are excellent, not flexy at all plush and pretty.
I only paid £650 for them too, get tapered steerer, it's supposed to be stiffer than the inch and an eighth.
they dont do the fox in 34 what i want, unless its a talas but dont want a talas fork, i cant see it being much different, like i say ive got a 160 already and there great, ive had 140s 32s they were fine so cant see 150`s being much different tbh
its a 1 1/8th headtube timraven, its not the newest cotic frame so has to be 1 1/8th, thx for the good feedback lol prob will go for the 150`s tbh
😉 lol wheres Loco any advice from him... 😉
I've just been through a similar thing with my pace 305. I settled on some second hand float 36s and dropped the travel to 130. Feels lovely.
ive got 36s 160s there ace reason i wanna try something different and go 150
@ OP.... really, how old are you?
what are you going to do when you have to make real decisions in your life?
you're talking about 10mm....
@ OP.... really, how old are you?what are you going to do when you have to make real decisions in your life?
To be fair, there's others in here that by the looks of it couldn't breathe without others telling them how... 🙄
Why wouldn't you put the 36s dropped to 140 on it? Much better suited than a 32 @ 150 and practically the same length.
the 160s are on my alpine is you read up plus there tapered and im after 1 1.8th, ill prob go for `150 @ 32.
they are suggesting you buy some new 36's and drop the travel, not use your existing ones.
still baffled why you came on here for advice and then argue with anyone who doesn't agree with what you first thought of, tbh.
Just buy what you want.. I don't even know why u opened this thread as you seem to have your mind made up anyway and are just ignoring people's advice and opinions.
I don't think you need 150mm travel on a hardtail either, I think your building a very similar style bike to what you already have.. Obviously minus the rear suspension.. Why not build it a bit lighter for when you want to do you XC style, and use your Alpine for the bigger days and freeride, DH, radcore, meganormous days.
I've ridden a BFe and had issues with the handling with different lengths of forks. The same issues I have with my Mmmbop forks so I'll tell you the story about it.
This was my first Mmmbop with 120-150mm U-turn Revelation Team forks (32mm legs like a Fox 32... but allegedly stiffer/better with the 20mm maxle).
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With the fork at 150mm the head angle is nice and slack giving confidence for DH, but the seat angle is too slack for techy climbing and the extra bottom bracket height leads to flip/flop steering. Reducing the travel to 130mm fixed most of these issues and was how I liked the bike best... although I would have prefered a slacker head angle and a less flexy fork. The Rev's were fine most of the time especially when the trails were dry but I ride a lot in steep, wet, and muddy trails; wrestling the Rev's down deep rutted sludge got scary random at times. I was going to try an angle set to slacken the front a bit but after a particularly scary muddy ride I decided to ditch it completely (and I broke the U-turn on the fork).
To replace this I bought a Troof which I ran with 160mm 36 forks from my big bike - great frame but it broke 😥 . Proper slack low slung DH weapen of a hardtail... but perhaps a little too single minded for all round use.
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This is Mmmbop two (smaller) with the 36 forks from the Troof reduced to 130mm of travel.
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This is a great fun little bike as the 36's give the front a directness which was missing from the Revelation forks. The reduced travel 36's keep the geometry sweet (as designed) and really allow me to throw the front end into things without wondering where it's going to end up. In an ideal world I would still slacken the head angle a little more but I would not do it by lengthening the fork as from my experience the handling becomes too compromised.
Summary - IMHO/IMHE... for a hard hitting hardtail it's better to have a burly feeling fork which keeps the geometry as designed than to compromise the handling by adding a longer fork (especially if it's a wet noodle of a fork).
if you are looking for a burly set of 150mm forks the Sektor at Merlin look really good value at £225. 20mm maxle and not even that heavy.
it would save you messing with the travel in your Fox
if i can take an alpine 160 with <<<<< 160 forks... round an xc route im sure i can handle a cotic bfe with 150 lol
got the 150`s now anyway