Shimano brake pad pin stuck

Had to drill it out I’m afraid. Just remember where the thread is, it’s the slot end I think, but double check. Managed to keep the thread but now use split pin.

I did the same. Used long nosed pliers to get a grip of it and loosen it off.

This is *really* common. I suspect slight over-tightening on initial build plus uk weather = problems.

Drilling is usually the solution followed by using a split pin. It's easy to **** up so be careful, especially as replacement calipers are like rocking horse poo at the moment.

Shit the bed.

Thanks, at least I know it's not just me. I might try heat (warmth) too and maybe a bit of penetrant.

Drill out and use a split pin works.

It can be worth cutting the pin, removing the pads and trying to undo the pin with pliers, mole grips etc.

I often replace them with split pins on customers commute or winter bikes. Can also put a drop of high temp grease on the thread.

As above plus S D Barnes, my mate took his to bike shop, mechanic said it's standard ,apparently he has drilled loads and replaced with split pin, shocking . Only an anal maintenance freak would unscrew a new one and load it with copaslip.

Dremel a slot in it screw it out

I had the same issue, its made of cheese, I did however find a replacement with a hex head which I think is used on Shimano disc MTB brakes, prefer it to split pin, it is a couple of mm longer but that doesn’t seem to make any difference.

Google Shimano Pad Axel and there are several options

I presume the road calipers are the same, I had a striped brake pin on my SLX’s so drill and tapped them both to M5 and now use Hope pins.

Split pin it.

This has happened to me, but how do you drill it out? It’s tiny. What do you use?

Had this too. Drill & replace with split pin.

Me too, 105, no longer have the bike, hope the new owner hasn’t had too much bother with the front caliper, pad looked 90% new when sold

Odd - when I posted about this a while back I was lambasted for not having taken the pin out of my brand new bike to grease the threads. But hey that's stw I guess 🤷‍♂️

Anyhow, drilled the stuck one then replaced both with split pins. Can't understand why they'd use hex for the mtb pins but slot headed cheese for road.

They're probably thinking mountain bikers are tight-arses who do all their own ham-fisted spannering, whilst roadies take their beloved carbon steeds into a shop to be professionally fettled by a mechanic who won't strip it, whilst they go for a flat white resplendent in Rapha.
Or something else more plausible.

Anyway, I'm going to check my 105 brakes today, it's got me paranoid. Where did I put the Copaslip...?

#metoo. ****ed it up drilling ended up having to buy two new callipers 😭

The new ones I removed the retaining bolts straight away and put split pins in. I have another two friends who've had the same issue, all of us with new bikes, we just didn't think to remove the bolts until we thought to check the pads and by then it was too late.

Drilling is the last resort. The thread is only at the head end so remove the wheel and try gripping the plain shank and unscrewing it from there, some thoughtful cutting of the pin to remove the pads will make access easier

Thanks, I’ve tried everything and it won’t budge, looks like the pins are fubar’d in each calliper. What did you guys use to drill it out? I really don’t want to buy new callipers … happy to trash pads of course

I managed to drill one with a tiny drill bit, started with a hole punch to centre to guide it accurately. Only needed to drill a few mill in, then was able to collapse the thread end with pliers gripping the remaining protruding head - without damaging the internal threads. Was able to find a replacement threaded pin, though split pin will do. Its not really under any stress in usage, just guides the pad movement. It was a nervous game and not one I'd like to repeat in a hurry.

Ah so it’s doable, What size drill bit and what type of drill or something like a drmmel ?

I removed the brake as a whole unit and clamped the calliper in a vice to hold it steady. Centre punching being key to start the bit it off dead centre. Just used a hand cordless drill with the tinyest metal drill bit I could find, nothing fancy - the tiny sub mm type that always snap if any angle is applied, it may take a couple...

Before you start drilling, have you tried an impact driver? As in one that you hit with a hammer, not a electric or air one.

The hammer action keeps the slot engaged and also loosen off any corrosion.

Got my stuck one out in 1 piece with one. They are also great for those crappy posi bolts on car brake disc and oil pumps. Not rounded one since I started using one.

Only an anal maintenance freak would unscrew a new one and load it with copaslip.

Puts hand up.
Removes pad pin with ease...

Have removed others seized ones though, either gripping the shaft with some pointy pliers, or drilling out and collapsing the threaded end.

I haven’t, I thought they’d ruin the thread…. Did yours remain fine?

Also if anyone would be so kind to the type of drill bit on the internet, that would be awesome. I don’t think my drill will hold a tiny drill bit…the small ones I’ve found are for model makers so really struggling to identify the right tools

Screwfix 1mm drill bits did the job for me but they're tiny so may not fit some drills (I used an old fashioned hand drill). Worth cutting the pin about 3/4 of the way across the caliper so you can get the old pads out but still have some grip on the pin, and push the pistons back before you start spreading fine metal swarf around.

inspired by this thread I've just undone the hex headed pad retaining bolts on my SRAM calipers. Took a bit more force than I might have otherwise expected.... so thanks for the prompt!

Good reminder, thanks. Anyone used the titanium replacement pins? They look neater than split pins and presumably less like to strip than the slot head original.

Cheers I’ll give this a go!

Thanks for the Impact driver tip.

Phew!

Pads out ( Shimano Ultegra.)