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Just picked up a second hand frame/fork combo, I've come to build the bike and with the shifter/brake combo set at my preferred angle the shifter is catching the top tube.
I can't fit any spacers under the stem as the steerer is too short, currently got a 50mm zero rise stem fitted with a 1/2 riser bar. The shifter is catching by a good inch, any other options other than a stem with more rise and a riser bar?
Ps new forks are off the option list along with not falling off.
New stem and bars fella unless the steerer can be replaced for a new one or new steerer and Crown.
I misread that as 'Shitter hitting top tube'
Was going to suggest you bought some built-up shoes
You can get those anti spin headsets that limit bar rotation.
Is it really a problem? My commuter bike has the brake lever hitting the top tube, but then I'm not doing barspins on the way to work. ๐
Wrap some tape around the frame where the shifter hits so it doesn't get damaged and get on with riding it.
You need a Skean
You need a Skean
Not keen on just protecting the frame tbh, the shifter could be ripped off during a proper technical dismount.
Think it's new bars and stem time. Anyone want a cheap as new Raceface Atlas stem/bars combo?
^ This.
My Whyte 29C fouls when set up with the right saddle-bar drop. I've put a Skean on the TT secured with self amalgamating tape as they slip when wet which is also when you're most likely to stack it and need the protection in the right place.
skean? how much? ๐ฏ
I've got the same problem on my 29er with a low stack, short stem combo.
Just run your shifters and brakes slightly loose so they spin when they hit the top tube. I've also put a few layers of frame tape at the contact point.
Plus
don't crash!
I had that problem with my Ragley- bought a 50mm Hope riser stem which conveniently I have in the classifieds, right now ๐ As I bought longer steerer forks.
Most races 29ers will have this. Run controls a bit less tight. Done.
Not arsed about marking the frame, more worried about the shifter. So it's a common problem then? I thought it would have been a big no no.
Northwind - Member
I had that problem with my Ragley- bought a 50mm Hope riser stem which conveniently I have in the classifieds, right now As I bought longer steerer forks.
If that had been black I'd snatch your hands off. Did you have any spacers under that stem? I'm pretty sure I need over an inch of rise but I don't want to go too high.
Yeah, I went with the gunmetal thinking it would match my titanium frame. Nope, very much nope ๐ Can't remember exactly what I had, the Ragley's got a pretty high top tube so I think maybe 10mm of spacers and also 20mm riser bars, or similiar.
Thing is, there comes a point where you just don't want to go any higher... I put the bars where I wanted them rather than raising it to clear the tube, I was glad it did but I wouldn't have had high bars just for that reason
Convert to single speed?
Sorry.
If your current bar/stem setup is good for your riding position then you don't want to muck about with that. Your shifter and brake levers should be 'not-tight' enough that they can rotate on the bars if you crash anyway. Theres not much chance you'll break a (shimano) shifter if its loose enough as the mechanism is that it forces rotation around the bar mount.
That said, I have damaged 3 carbon frames due to not wanting to compromise ride position ๐
This is my first ht after 3 years on various fs bikes, as someone who falls off a lot I can only imagine going back to a ht will increase that rate.
I've not ridden it yet but it does feel low compared to my last bike, I'm tempted to pick up a pair of Renthal fat bars but being colourblind I'm not sure the gold will go with a green Ragley frame/kashima forks.
First world problems! Think I will just ride the thing first.
Just run your shifters and brakes slightly loose so they spin when they hit the top tube. I've also put a few layers of frame tape at the contact point.Plus
don't crash!
This all the way.
My bars don't even clear my TT, let alone the shifter (slammed -17 stem on a 29er) so you'll be fine ๐
I put some Lizard Skins carbon leather patches where there would be contact just for peace of mind when travelling with the bike more than anything. Saves the scratches but probably does little in a crash. I ripped the idea off Matt Page and I trust him to know a thing or two about bikes ๐
Wider bars ๐ my 725mm barsh shifter caught went to 750mm and they missed easily depends on the frame.
Acros Block Lock looks like a low hassle, but expensive solution - just an upper head-set that limits the ration of the handlebars. Been looking at his as the controls on my Rag Ti are a whisker away from hitting the top tube if things go wrong, I run my levers slightly flatter than I'd like as a result.
Depending on how much clearance you have, you can also try moving levers/shifters outwards slightly, but again you're compromising your cockpit as a result. Edit: or as above, run wider bars, same effect.
As you can see it catches by a fair chunk, bars are 785mm wide low rise which I imagine I will end up trimming down. Stem is 50mm 0deg rise. The brake/shifter is as far inboard as I'd like it and moving it any more won't make any difference.
Like the look of the Acros Block Lock, might have a look into that thanks. Seems it's a more common problem than I originally thought. Looks like some sticky pads and helitape might be the order of the day.
Thanks.
That isn't bad at all. Just don't over-tighten the controls and you'll be fine.
