Forum menu
Anybody fitted a Reverb stealth to a Mega? Where did you drill?
It's either a Reverb stealth or a Kronolog
If your going for a stealth drill out one of the bottle cage bosses and replace with a rubber gromit
And then feed the hose through cnc section bottom bracket
You might want to soften the cutout's with sand paper or rough emery cloth inside the frame as they feel really sharp and could potently slice the hose
Not sure what would happen to your frame warranty though by drilling a boss out
Good luck
please dont drill in ur frame...it will 100% invalidate ur warrenty and also weaken the frame in a way that u dont want...just buy a standerd reverb or the fox doss (ive got the doss) and run it externally, doesnt look bad if u set it up well and wont **** ur frame!
😀
I REALLY REALLY want to drill the bottle cage mount on my mega because I want the 150mm drop...my bikes not with me
1) Can you actually feed it through that CNC section? As in are there holes in the CNC section to allow the hose to get from the down tube to the seat tube.
2) Don't care for the warranty now, only a few months left on it....what would doing this do to the resale value?
3) Do you reckon it would weaken the frame?
i seriously wouldnt do it either, but if i was going to do it (which, again, i really wouldnt) im gonna say the front of headtube. not much force going through there [s]and enough room to get the hose around the fork stearer [/s] thinking about it maybe not...?
Its also pretty easy to thread through the down tube an out the other end.
Was looking at how to fit a stealth the other day.
There is a route through the cnc block from the seat to down tube. I don't know if you could route a cable through, but probably.
I would not want my hose exiting on the bottom of the down tube - too vulnerable to rock strikes and impacts without additional protection - I ride the Peaks and all my bikes are dented here!
I'd rather drill my frame than fit a Crank Bros seatpost! 😀
Could you not drill a hole in the front of the seat tube & double up a cable on the down tube guides?
Seen a few bikes with a drilled ST now for this reason.
I REALLY REALLY want to drill the bottle cage mount on my mega because I want the 150mm drop...my bikes not with me
1) Can you actually feed it through that CNC section? As in are there holes in the CNC section to allow the hose to get from the down tube to the seat tube. [b]YES[/b]
2) Don't care for the warranty now, only a few months left on it....what would doing this do to the resale value? [b]NOT GOOD UNLESS YOU SELL THE FRAME WITH THE REVERB AND YOU DONT MAKE A MESS OF DRILLING THE BOSS[/b]
3) Do you reckon it would weaken the frame? [b]DONT THINK SO AS YOU ARE ONLY GOING TO MAKE THE HOLE IN THE BOSS BIGGER AND NOT DRILL A DIFFERENT HOLE IN THE FRAME
[/b]
🙂
Problem with a front head tube exit is
- clearance for rotating steerer, probably OK with 1 1/8th forks but would need an internal guide or sleeve to stop rubbing
- possible tight bend radius when the bars are turned or when you crash
Drilled seat tube in traditional bottle mount location would be neatest. Drill access could be tricky.
spev - Member
It's either a Reverb stealth or a Kronolog
You'd really consider one of these??
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Crankbrother-Kronolog-Telescoping-Seat-Post-Tested-2012.html
Some good info, cheers all. The Kronolog is the cheapest (bar the gravity dropper copies) with fixed cable so i'd consider one as a last resort. I'm gonna strip the frame down for a clean if I get the chance tomorrow so i'll have a good look at the cnc seatpost junction
Yeah, good call legend - having been involved in designing a similar jamming plate mechanism (for a different application), I'd recommend you drill holes at random in your frame rather than buy a Kronolog.
What about the 150mm KS Lev? Is it actually available to buy anywhere?
31.6 In stock with the supplier but it's still quite expensive and I do like the idea of hydraulic activation
gravity-slave - MemberProblem with a front head tube exit is
- clearance for rotating steerer, probably OK with 1 1/8th forks but would need an internal guide or sleeve to stop rubbing
- possible tight bend radius when the bars are turned or when you crash
In that case then I wonder how my Commencal Meta AM fits 2 gear cables, a brake cable and a reverb cable all through the tapered headtube, with tapered forks. 🙄
There is loads of room in there
The main issue you will have is the unsecured cable smacking the inside of your tubes and causing a really, reall,y really (no really) annoying rattling noise everywhere you go. Trust me, its annoying as hell!
Probably because the AM has a tapered head tube rather than 44mm, with the side exit hole designed in, with a guide/stop n stuff, rather than drilled in to the front at home in the garage 🙄 😉
I think I'll give up on the drilling idea (although I was going to get the local Uni Engineering workshop to do it), next silly idea is wireless remote 🙂
Did you ever fit the Stealth through the CNC section?
I'm thinking of buying a dropper and quite fancy 150 mm drop on my 2011 Mega...
I'm not drilling my frame for 125mm extra though!
Did anyone ever do this?
I'm not drilling my frame but fancy running the cable through the CNC hole (see above) and then tie wrapping it to the top of the downtube along with the brake hose and gear cable.
Has anyone done something similar?
Ta,
Jim
Hi Jim,
After reading many forums and hearing of differant experiances and differant ways of approaching Stealth routing in my 2011 Mega frame. I fianlly went for it today. Pictures attached, works great, no stress to the cable, 8mm rubber grommet used for 18p, just had to shorten the stealth hose length. Worked no problems.
Drilled in a low stress area. Pictures attached! Cheers, Jack.
http://www.pinkbike.com/u/greenly1025/album/Nukeproof-Mega-2011/ Full gallery of step by step drilling and the finished product.