Forum menu
So Reverb has been getting progressively harder to push down, though lever has always been responsive and returns to good position.
I decide to have a fettle with it and at the same time do a better routing which necessitates hose shortening. I've shortened Reverb cables before and never needed to bleed, but with the sticky seat I thought I'd give it a bleed anyway.
So following the [url=
guide[/url] I merrily bled it and got it to the point of no more bubbles through. Put it back together, now lever is squish and doesn't return well. So I try the [url=
guide[/url] that only uses one syringe at the remote end, and got it better but despite no more air bubbles it's just not as good as it was.
Anyway, on top of that push in lever and seat just won't drop at all now.
It's a few years old now so should I give up and send it for a service, and how much is that likely to cost? I've heard people say it can be nearly as much as a new Reverb!
Or is the lack of dropping likely to just be down to still having air in the system though I can't seem to get any more out (yet still have slightly squishy lever)?
Did you bleed the lever after doing the full bleed? Close the port on the post, pull up on syringe to purge bubbles of air, which will pull the lever in. Then push back down on syringe to force fluid in, which will push lever back out.
Difficulty dropping is more likely a bushing issue. Try pushing the saddle down at the tip, and then try at the back. If thr bushing is mashed on one side, it may be easier back or front.
Yeah I tried the lever bleed. That's what the MBR guide seems to do. Though pulling up on the syringe didn't pull the lever in for me. I have to push the lever while pulling the syringe, and get bubbles. Push the syringe down and the lever pops out. Repeat several times as the guide says and got it so there are no more bubbles. I made sure I gave the syringe an extra push before removing it.
So I had this problem, and it was down to bleeding for me. I did the both end with enough fluid in the seat post one to do a complete push through with new fluid. Then back and forward many times tapping the cable bleeding with the exiting fluid at the highest point. Now closing the seat pin point I started with the lever, in out, fully open fully closed on the slow return adjuster. Lots of times again. All worked well, solid lever, went up and down a treat.
A few weeks later no resistance on the lever, many bleeds later I found the pipe into the seat pin was passing a little, I nipped it up, bleed again now all is fine.
Take your time over the bleeding and check there is no leaks and you will be fine, you sound confident.
Stoddy
Got plenty of fluid to mess about with. The only leaks I get are from the syringes, though I've tightened up everything I can. The connector hoses leak a bit as I put pressure to push the oil through.
I'll give it a few more goes.
Okay, after doing as stoddys says I've got it dropping again and the lever is back to full springyness. Should note that it has to be set to fastest speed to spring back okay. Even then the post is a bit slow coming back up. Far less resistance going down though.
Have checked the air and it's dropped again as pumped to 250 a week ago, now at 200. It's being a bit odd when I pump it up where it will struggle to get up to 250 and sometimes drop, though not sure if my shock pump is just a bit rubbish.
Still suspect it needs a proper service, but it's useable again now at least.