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Rear hub seized mid-ride - snapped the QR and messed up my rotor and mech hanger. I have tried to open it up but the nuts are too tight or down appear to undo (ie they turn but nothing ).
1. Can I fix this myself? How? How much?
2. Is it more cost effective to sell the rim (DT 5.1) and buy a new rear wheel (Hope Hoop, Stans Flow - £140)?
Thanks
does this mean the QR was already seized in the hub ? I'm just wondering how the QR came to be snapped. If the nuts turn but nothing happens doesn't that mean the axle is snapped - that might explain the QR too.
Depends what is wrong. If you can't open it then you can't fix it!
You are loosening the cone from the locknut yes?
Usually fixable...but new f/hub body may be needed. Suspect hope may suit your maintenance schedule better 😉
QR was not seized, I think its the bearings inside but not sure if it has damaged anythhing else. Can you buy spare parts eg axles for shimano hubs?
yes. Axle unlikely to be wrecked though, more likely cones or cups - latter the only part which you can't get.
So if I get it open and its the cups how much is a wheel rebuild likely to cost in my LBS?
I actually serviced the hub in question a few months ago but a week in the alps and a jetwash (and maybe my servicing skills) got the better of it!
Same thing happened to me not long after i'd serviced the hub. Wheel locked solid and QR sheared off. Stripped it all down and rebuilt it with new bearings. Exactly the same thing happened again. Turned out to be the bolt that holds the freehub on. I'd damaged the thread probably by over-tightening and the freehub was unbolting itsself causing the wheel to lock up. New hub time for me.
a wheel build is going to cost about £60 inc spokes.
but do it your self wheel building is easy once you have masterd it
Right, ill try and open it up tonight. If the hub is not fixable I'm getting a new wheel - don'f fancy paying £60 for a rebuild or trusting myself to do it. Quite fancy the possibility of a bolt through rear anyway!
Once (if) you get into it, so long as the bearing surface in the hub shell itself isn't too bad, it might be cost effective to buy a matching XT hub cheap and swap all the internals and the freehub. Saves the hassle of a wheel rebuild if current one is still good.
What MLC said - cheapest option by far, and only the NDS cup will be "used".
The freehub bolt can take a LOT of torque btw.
Just tried to open the hub up from the none drive side and no joy. When I turn the outermost nut it just rotates but does not come off. I think the nut has been compressed on during the incident and threaded it.
Hub a write off?
Dont want to spend money on it in the LBS as would rather put money towards new wheels.
I'd changed the internals. If it's 756 or 765, then it's possible to buy a rim brake LX rear hub for practically nothing and put all the guts into the XT one, INCLUDING the freehub. If it's a 775 model then things are that great, 775 guts are compatible only with 975 hubs.
MRanger, you can try to open it from the drive side or just saw the sheared nut off and have a look inside.
If the locknut is stripped you could get it out with a vice.
Bin it and but a sealed bearing hub. You must have had your moneys worth if its seized, surely?