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About to become a PP owner already thinking what to upgrade!
So headset, rear hub and Pike spring are first - what have you guys changed.
Headset and rear hub? Seriously? Just replace them when they wear out.
surely not a very economically sound way to do things - just buying and upgrading immediately. Why not just buy a better bike to begin with or do as steve says.
aw the reviews that spooge over the pitch didn't have to upgrade before they rode it now did they?
That rear hub will last years. Just open it up as soon as you get the bike and fill with some nice thick grease. My GFs Deores are 3+ years old now, still going strong.
Headset is fine, should last a year or more.
I've just fitted a 36t ring and a bash ring, lock-on grips, DMR V8 pedals, a firm spring in the forks and I've drilled the rims out to take proper valves (I hate Prestas!)
That's it. It's fine as it is now. Even the saddle is OK.
Having said that I'm off to the Alps in the Summer and I'll probably fit a shorter stem (50-60mm) for that.
The only thing that feels a bit cheap are the shifters, but they work and I can change gear, so why bother changing them?
I did the following, because:
Headset - Changed to a Hope 2 weeks ago as the OE one was grindy grindy (me being lazy & not servicing it)
Crankset - changed to SLX cos I buggerd the other ones, spider was all wonky - thus bending rings :S
Bars - Used to keep it in the conservatory and they faded to a $hitty golden/black colour
Stem - so it matched my bars - pimp content 😛
Wheels - wanted lighter ones (mines a comp BTW)
Saddle - Liked Charge Spoons so put one on
And the rest is just me messing about with bikes, used to be cars now bikes.
I must say though car suspension is far better value than bike stuff 😆
Does seem pretty pointless to change things on a brand new bike
the only things you should *need* to change on a new bike are the stem (for an appropriate lenght/rise) and maybe switch to your usual tyres.
I'd spend longer setting it up properly (suspension and fit) than worrying about individual bits.
If anybody's got some of the standard Eskar Control tyres they don't want, I might have them off you if the price is right! (i.e. Cheap!)
🙂
Ay up, I've been on a hardtail 25 years!! PP is my 1st full susser,
Its very good! Just a bit sluggish, so..
For weight saving,
Change to a XT cassette save 200g - got one for £41.00
Tyres weigh 740g each changed to Mud X (£19each), so saved 480g.
Next thing will be wheels Hope/Stans when the originals bend.
I've got some non-control versions hangin' in t'shed
Its very good! Just a bit sluggish, so..
For weight saving,
Change to a XT cassette save 200g - got one for £41.00
Tyres weigh 740g each changed to Mud X (£19each), so saved 480g.
No no no no no. [slaps forehead]
Wrong! It's not an XC bike you know. Too big'n'heavy. Too much travel. Wrong forks. It's a bike for slowly pedalling to the top of a bloody great huge hill then flinging it downwards as fast as possible, purely for fun! Fitting skinny tyres to save weight simply defeats the object.
(If you don't want a chunky all-mountiain bike, get a Stumpy FSR.)
But that's what a Pitch is - A chunky, slack angled and cheap downhill fun machine!
Those tyres are slowing you down, not speeding you up.
I've got some non-control versions hangin' in t'shed
What does that mean? Non kevlar ones? But still the same 2.3s?
🙂
:oops:oooh.... less of the slapping
MUD X will be swapped when the claggy conditions dry up!
No point running fat tyres that pack with crud & stop turning.
What I should have said is the original tyres are quite heavy.
🙂
What I should have said is the original tyres are quite heavy.
I thought they were fairly light for their size, TBH. I had a pinch puncture the other day in The Lakes, so I'll be stuffing some thicker tubes in them at some point I reckon, but they grip and roll very well, IMO.
Not Kevlar and summit like a 62a compound on the middle and a sticker one on the outside.
+1 for the comments about getting to the top of the hill and then razzing it down gnarl-core stylee, way more fun anyway he hee.
I did have a pinch puncture once last year on a mucho rocky descent, we stopped, someone said who's hissing, turned out to be me!
the original bike is great out of the box - minus the saddle.
But i made a few adjustments:
xt cassette
a fsa bash ring
50mm thomson stem
crank bros joplin seatpost
maxis high roller tires
and a comfy saddle
more upgrades once the parts wear out.
May I just take this opportunity to direct you over [url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/spoc-gnarl-core-meet ]HERE[/url] to the thread for the up-coming [b]S[/b]pecialized [b]P[/b]itch [b]O[/b]wners [b]C[/b]lub meet @ a Gnarl-tastic location near somewhere soon 😈
despite changing everything else... the one thing I [i]should[/i] have changed was the headset.
When I changed the forks I noticed that all the races were pitted. Roll on the 'coloured in' Chris King 🙂
sherco - Member:oops:oooh.... less of the slapping
MUD X will be swapped when the claggy conditions dry up!
No point running fat tyres that pack with crud & stop turning.What I should have said is the original tyres are quite heavy.
[:-)]
MudX tyres are mud tyres - they're designed NOT to clag up in mud. They're also pretty light and 2.0" IIRC. Wondering what you're going to use that's lighter seeing as they are the good side of 500g apiece!
aphex, hes swaping to mud-X from the original ones, hence saving weight.
FWIW, i ride just as fast with 2.1 maxxis swampthings as i did with 2.35 highrollers. Possibly faster as i can run them harder without loosing grip, and the extra pressure stops them puncturing. A very very very underated tire!
They probably loose out on gnarl-core rocky decents (im thinking east to west on jacobs ladder) but everywhere else theyr awesome.
Changed to high rollers after a few rides as the standard ones are naff
I had already bought some second hand wheels off a mate (mavic 717's on goldtec hubs ) so put them on.
Gradually changed to fsa gravity bars ,easton vice stem and fitted my raceface evolve seatpost/sdg bel air off old bike .
Now have firm spring in pikes too 😉
Welcome to the club!
Saddle and tyres are the only things that really need changing.
If anybody's got some of the standard Eskar Control tyres they don't want, I might have them off you if the price is right! (i.e. Cheap!)
I have the ones I took off my Pitch after a couple of rides - you can have em for whatever you think is reasonable. I just want rid tbh.
grum at sourpuss dot info
Thanks for the thoughts!
So my thinking is headset as fitted not branded or sealed so it's gotta go. I like preventative maintenance so would prefer to change the obvious things. The rear 475 hub is poorly sealed (from the drawings) compared to XT and as I have a brand new one sitting in the cupboard I will rebuild the wheel by hand. RE Firm spring as I'm Northern European sized 😉
I picked mine up and it went straight on the bike stand to remove parts I didn't want and then sell them on I changed the following.
My changes :
SLX shifters
XT Rear Mech
XT Chainset/BB
High Rollers 2.35
Presta Inner Tubes
XTR SPD
RP23
Earl Grips
Thomson Seatpost and Bel Air RL Saddle
Hope ProII on WTB Dual Duty rims
PP - I have a pair of Eskars unused but they are not Controls but the dual compound that come on the Comp.
Things I [i]haven't[/i] changed:
Bars/Stem
Seat/Pin
Front Hub/Rims
Tyres (Personally I think they are pretty great)
Front Mech
Headset (it is a Cane Creek with 'Californian' seals)
Frame/Shock