[Closed] New frame or full build

Should be ok. Pro4 should be convertible to boost, and the Yaris just need a longer airshaft (£42 for an uprated debonair one). Not sure on the cranks as I’ve got sram all the way. Sounds very do-able.

What frame what full build

Transition patrol to bronson. Maybe.

Depending on the build of the new one and the prices it might be better to buy the good value full build, swap what you want and flog on the bits you take off as new and your old kit

The new build would be the basic 3.5k one and pretty much in line as my current build but newer.
Some maths show frame only could be a fair bit cheaper if no new wheels etc are needed which hopefully they won't.

£3.5k for an alloy frame with only Yari’s / NX Eagle / Guide T’s?

I think I’d do a frame swap only if your kit is already that good / better. Maybe use the money saved to get a charger 2 damper for your Yari’s at the same time as doing the longer airshaft.

Yeah that was my thinking. Its a similar level but I have hope tech wheels, guide rs brakes and burgtec finishing kit so I am happy to keep it if i can.

I just wanted a sense check before I started dwn the frame only road and found out it was going to cost me more than a full build in the end!

I'm just in the middle of doing the same. New headset, airshaft and rear Hope boost kit is all I've planned on needing so far. As far as I can find out using a boost kit you should be able to get away without needing to change anything on the cranks as the cassette isn't moved and swapping airshafts is pretty straightforward if your happy to do it yourself. I looked at it as I could get the frame/build exactly how I wanted and use all the stuff I've upgraded or changed over the years vs buying a whole bike then changing loads of bits.

That is interesting. That would be helpful if it is the case. I did read somewhere that my turbine crank could be run as boost but to be honest I am not 100% sure what the boost standard crank really is.

Boost standard is 3mm offset instead of 6mm - so the chainring sits a bit further from the chainstay. Trial and error really - you may get away with what you have done - or you may find it touches the chainstay. On my hardtail I bought recently a boost chainring (sram direct mount) only clears it by literally a couple of mm. A non boost chainring / crank would not have cleared it. But a lot of people find non boost works fine.

Good knowledge. I did do a bit of research and came across the boost chainrings. For some reason I thought the boost cranks were a whole new standard with longer axles etc. None of this is as simple as it used to be!

I've just done a frame swap to a '19 Bronson.

My hope pro 4 rear was non boost so I used the hope conversion kit - needed both spaces on the disc but conversion was simple. I also used my non boost chainring and it fitted the Bronson fine without fouling the chainstay. I have recently replaced it with a boost chainring as my non boost ring was bent - can't I say I notice a difference in the chainline.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Buenfoxa, What frame did you go for? I wish they did the C version frame only as I could be tempted with that over the alloy, but I refuse to pay the price for the CC!

What frame did you go for?

CC version in primer grey - love it

CC shock has lsc adjustment and climb switch too, Ali version is just the R. I went to Stif with buying the Ali version in my head but ended up getting the CC version too.