Forum menu
Is it the angle the bike is sat at, or is that the slackest seat tube (and rearward saddle) since the 90's?
It is slightly uphill with the front higher...
It's a new seatpost as my Magura Vyron developed a minor issue... Yes it needs lowering at the front slightly... Been working on the lads bike today, not got to mine just yet... But it was a little high on the front when i rode yesterday... only 2-3mm.... but enough yes.
I mean that deluxe is fine for a bottom end shock. Just basic low speed rebound adjustment externally. No idea if it’s got the right tune for your bike. You could probably give it a bit more adjustment by adding a Megneg to it - for more mid range support.
But it’s still not going to give the same riding experience as the Marz coil - I think that has lsc and lsr adjustments but obviously it’s a coil so is going to be more plush on small stuff (more grip) and hold up better in the mid range - assuming your bike has the right leverage curve to run a coil.
For me it would be a bad compromise just to fit in 300ml more liquid in a bottle. I’d just run a Camelbak backpack or hip pack for hydration requirements.
assuming your bike has the right leverage curve to run a coil
the G170 is well regarded in terms of coil compatibility yes.
Maybe the Cane Creek DBCoil inline if you need more space? More ££££s though.
Maybe the Cane Creek DBCoil inline if you need more space? More ££££s though.
Yeah i'm not going to be lobbing £500 at it... that's not an option. I agree it would resolve problems yes... but that's down to budget then and there's simply not budget there.
Db coil il is the coil solution tbf if you don’t want a piggyback.
If going to air with no piggy I’d probably want a deluxe ultimate (for the damping adjustment) and add a Megneg.
Or a CC db air il - but that’s also £££
Canyon missed a trick not covering the mouth pieces on those bottles. Looks like a nice arrangement though with the option on sticking a pump on top as well.
Canyon missed a trick not covering the mouth pieces on those bottles. Looks like a nice arrangement though with the option on sticking a pump on top as well.
Yeah they really did on what otherwise looks to be a great idea. Especially as the bottles get no shielding by the downtube like that. In the bottom picture on the page it shows a downtube covered in sh1t yet somehow the bottles stay miraculously clean.
Well interestingly i was looking over the bike today and you know when they say "hindsight, it's a wonderful tool" well it really may be in this case.
I've got this shock as you know, the Marzochi Bomber CR, which has not only spring rate but has high and low speed settings to play with too.
Well, i've not really touched it since buying the bike... and today i bounced on the bike and thought "woah, that's exceptionally slow"..
Click, click.... "still slow"..... click click click...."Still slow, getting better".... click click...."yeah that's more like it...." but that was 7 clicks faster of rebound.... Errrrrm that seems a LOT.
Bomber CR shock should have lsc and lsr. Rebound is the red one, gold is the lsc. It’s basically a rebranded Fox Van I believe.
Are you saying you’ve just been running with it set completely wrong, or that something has changed and that’s why you’ve tried tweaking rebound?
The tuning guide isn’t very helpful - for my Fox Float X air shock Fox give you a ballpark number of clicks for rebound vs your spring weight / sag:
Are you saying you’ve just been running with it set completely wrong
Yeah i rekon 🙂
Sag is right.... seems the rebound, not so much 🙂
Lol - your bike will feel quite a lot more lively now I’d have thought - at least at low shaft speeds. It might have been packing the shock down whilst pedalling making it feel sluggish.
Have you ever played with lsc - if not and the bike bobs a bit under pedalling you could improve that too.
NOt yet.... but it's something i'll play with this weekend if i get a chance at Surrey Hills.
Not had the shockwiz on it yet then?
It's coil.
Cracking bit of fun today at FoD with @joebristol.
Started with the usual DH trails but then we went over to do Y2K and elephant Man. The drop mid way down Y2K is a bit fruity and made both of us wake up!
Joe then showed me some off piste on the other side of the road, was excellent and techie fun stuff at times, certainly kept me on my toes, and once lying on the floor lol.
I also got to try his bike which is I think a Transition Sentinel. 29er and very slack head angle. Felt a bit weird to ride and his wider bars also made that quite strange, but it went well, however I still think I'm a 27.5 guy.
The G170 was ace again and coped brilliantly with everything I hit. Dropped 1 click of rebound off the shock and may add a little air into the front.
Most interesting though was Joe's comments on my riding style, which didn't shock me but was quite eye opening that someone else can see the issues I know I have
More to work on
bonzodog
Need to bin the crazy short stem for a 35mm one
Blimey, modern bikes make me feel so old.
Surely anything less than 50mm is just a weld
The Renthal is 32mm, not sure a 35 will be all that different. 32mm is as close as a 31.8 bar can get to a 1 1/8 steerer without touching.
Stem is 40mm.
Yeah, Sentinel 2022 alloy. 63.6 degree headangle - although mines probably half a degree steeper than standard as it has a 150mm fork on there right now instead of 160mm. I’m loving the 29er thing tbf - I thought I was 27.5 for life but have changed my mind now.
That trail where you fancied a quick lie down was a bit more tricky than I expected it to be - maybe we should have taken the left hand option perhaps! I don’t like steep / narrow / rooty / cut up stuff as a matter of course but the rest was good. Really enjoyed the trails we did today.
I think with a few tweaks you’d be cornering a lot faster - setting up to go in wider at the start (to make the corner les sharp) more than anything else. I reckon that’s why you’re having to brake more because on the inside line you have to go slower to make the turn. On the straight bumpy bits we were going a similar speed.
Thanks lots for the pointers matey. I'll be working on it for sure.
Just checked and my other bars 25-30mm wider. So may give them a whirl. They're 35mm dia stem. I did wanna try the 31.8 but nothing against the 35s.
I'll also decide whether to try the DHF maxtera or the Dissector max tera on the front end instead of the vigilante fast rolling compound.
Nice as it would be to steal the Assegai, I'm not sure I justify it lol. Although I could just steal that (maxgrip) and buy him another after payday I guess.
Maybe I should have brought the gum-x Wild Enduro for you to have a look at. That’s great at this time of year - better than a tough / fast vigilante at pretty much everything.
I don’t think handlebar diameter makes a huge difference. My 31.8mm carbon brand x bars have more flex than all the alloy 35mm bars I’ve had - but I’ve never tried a car on 35mm bar to compare.
Dhf is better at this time of year than the dissector I’d say - dissector is faster rolling but deals with slop less well - still better than an aggressor though at everything I think.
COUldn't be bothered taking the DHF off the front of the lads spare wheel.. so ended up throwing the Dissector on my front of the G-170.
Also fitted the wider bars as an experiment.
This afternoon is apparently off to Goring for jump practice.. my legs are still tired from being beasted uphill by joebristol but we'll be mostly driving there so won't be too terrible.
I wish I could ride my bike today - back to work though so doubt I’ll get out until next weekend somewhere local.
With the lack of rain we’ve had the dissector might be ok - although it’s fast rolling rather than good in slop. 3c compound though so it should do better than the vigilante on hardpack etc.
What hills 🤪
The G-170 does at times get neglected due to spannering the Sworks, so today it was raining outside and i'm not due to ride until later, so jumped on the spanners/tools and got to work.
I did the main pivot bearings when i got the bike so i'm happy they're ok.. Checked the 3 bar linkage bearings which are 6802s and whilst they're not perfect, they're not terrible, so added a bit of grease to them after taking the cover off and they're OK.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51893143055_1f31c3814c_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51893143055_1f31c3814c_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2n4BVv2 ]2022-02-20_10-47-21[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
That was the good bit though....
I then moved down to the back of the chainstay....
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51891534097_24144b598f_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51891534097_24144b598f_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2n4tFdn ]2022-02-20_10-47-12[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51892578613_c0895cfb65_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51892578613_c0895cfb65_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2n4z2Hg ]2022-02-20_10-47-17[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Now these are 3802LLUmax, the llumax designating they're better bearings and stuffed with more grease than others.... However, they're simple seized solid and don't move at all LOL. So they're out of the bike and hopefully will get swapped at Banjo Cycles, if not they'll be replaced by Ebay purchased.
So has the frame been flexing then to allow the rear triangle to move if those bearings are seized solid?
They're not 100% seized, they move about 2-5deg at a guess. I don't know how much they'd ordinarily move considering their position? You could kinda wiggle them a little bit.
With the lower pivots and upper 3 bar mount points both moving, I don't think they actually move much anyway?
I've whacked some grease in both and they're freely moving again. But obviously not quite as nice as new.
So has the frame been flexing then to allow the rear triangle to move if those bearings are seized solid?
The rear triangle will still be moving but the pivot bolts will be rotating on the seized inner bearing race (rather than with). The latter are normally made of a much harder metal so eventually the pivot bolt will start to wear and the pivot will get slack.
The rear triangle will still be moving but the pivot bolts will be rotating on the seized inner bearing race (rather than with). The latter are normally made of a much harder metal so eventually the pivot bolt will start to wear and the pivot will get slack.
Ah yes - that makes sense. Those rear bearings don’t get much rotation I don’t think so it’s not a great solution in theory to use a bearing vs a bushing.
Lifetime warranty of Whyte’s bearing, so you should be ok for free replacement if you are first owner.
Lifetime warranty of Whyte’s bearing, so you should be ok for free replacement if you are first owner.
Yeah i'm not the first of this bike, although i've bought a few new ones.