[Closed] My wheel fell out...

New QR time?

Aye I was thinking that might be a good idea. Next frame will definitely be bolt through too.

I had this with a new-ish hope skewer, it hadn't fastened flush to the dropouts, it had settled on a very slight angle so whilst it felt good and tight when I put the wheel in, the angle the stopper finished up at meant it didn't take much to loosen, same thing happened wheel pretty much fell out.

Something is NOT right.

Has it been on a bike rack etc on the way to a ride? If so you should REALLY recheck all QR's before starting a ride.

No cracks etc in the rear triangle?

Its only happened to me once- bike was on a bike carrier. So driving/wind etc must have helped loosen it. I parked up and jumped on to ride the circa 100m's to my flat and was spat OTB onto the pavement.

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Seen it happen twice - for the same reason both times. Loose locknut on a Shimano axle, cone screwed itself down tight onto the bearings with the rotation of the wheel, and this loosened the wheel enough for it to just drop out with the QR still clamped shut.

Of course if yours are cartridge bearings rather than cup & cone it won't be that.

Sometimes depends on bad dropout design. We got a new frame out of Trek because of this. The dropout slot was really shallow, only contacting about 1/3 of the QR face. When clamped the QR was already not sitting flat (due to lack of surface to touch against) and the wheel would gradually work out of the dropout.

Apparently they had no other reported warranty problems, but strangely the forging for the following year was very similar but had been altered / extended to give a full contact area for the QR....

The British standard EN 14766 for closing force on a quick release mechanism is far greater than you think! not that anyone knows unless you look this up and then relate that to using a Newton gauge and your hand. In short it needs to exceed 60NM to pass. relate that to your hand and rather than a simple "impression" it physically hurts to clamp the thing!! different designs of handle/ lever will help but even the best require allot more effort than you think (don't buy the skinny lever type for instance - a shimano has a nice fat handle for a reason). In short buy a new bike with thru axles if you ride any form of rough stuff...rough. Qwerty are those for road bikes? that where std QRM belong..

Cartridge hubs and running fine, so not that. Came in the back of a Yaris with the wheels out, and I'm always pretty careful about checking when I put the wheel in, but I guess I could have got it in on the wonk.

Currently running a Superstar 10 mm axle rather than a 9 mm QR, reckon it's maybe time to replace that.

SS you say, is that what failed?

there not good.. this has never failed me yet and ride some rough stuff http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-xt-rear-quick-release-skewer/

Not that I can see; I've had it happen once before with the same frame but with a Shimano QR, so statistics would suggest if anything it's the frame (or me) at fault.

Happened to me with one of those ti skewers, the Hope I replaced it with has been fine for a year though. I keep thinking about replacing that with a Shimano internal cam one though.

I remember the Ti Hope skewers came with the warning NOT to use on full sus frames didn't they.

I have SS QR's on my heckler, solid. Not a hint of a problem.

Try DT Swiss RWS skewers?

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In testing the design offered 50% more clamping torque than even Shimano or Campag steel QR, which have always been the bench mark for quality skewers.

I've been using DT Swiss RWS on my QR dropout mountain bikes and QR dropout road bikes for some years, and never had any dropout issues; the ability to set the lever exactly where you want after clamping is really neat too 😉

I use those Halo hexes, I like em- light and solid. I did break one by overtightening like a gorilla, and had one come loose which I'd bet money I'd just not tightened right but otherwise grand

Another vote for the Halo ones ,got them on 2 bikes and never had a problem even run them on a SS with EBB in the past with no issues.

Only bike with QR's does have XT Shimano ones on.

I use the DT RWS in my ht.

I did have this happen once with a set of Mavic cross ride skewers in a Cove Handjob

My carbon Scott would do that. Some double lever crank brother QRs fixed it.

I'd never ever had an issue with a quick release coming loose until I got my El Mariachi.

I was using the tried and tested XT skewer. On two occasions after about four or five days bikepacking I noticed the gear shifting at the rear was becoming wooly. I checked the skewer and it was loose, barely holding the wheel in the drop out. The drop outs are the adjustable type, the serrated end of the quick release barely marked it. I try and make a point of checking it regularly now.

The only other issue I had now come to think of it were some Magura branded DT skewers which came loose on every ride. I ended up throwing them away.

if when closing the skewer it doesn't hurt your hand to do up then your not applying enough pressure on the QR and it may come loose. Can you say that for every ride? thus the reason they have been binned on most high end bikes in order to reduce such chance

muddy9MTB

i suggest you look into cam design.

the number of people i see over camming their QR in the belief it makes their wheels more secure is unreal.

user error.

also the clamping force given by a properly cammed QR is greater than those allen key skewars will provide.

it is possible to snap a QR in half with a good cam design.

whatever, read the the standard. then test it using newton gauges and your own hand. standard QR belong on road bikes not rough riding mtb's. you could snap it yes but then nobody is expected to carry a newton gauge in the pocket to do up the cam lock. Thus a thru axle is more secure than an open ended fork/ axle

Northwind - Member
I use those Halo hexes, I like em- light and solid. I did break one by overtightening like a gorilla

same here - the cross sectional area is pretty small and I'm not prone to over cranking tools

woooosh. point head and cookoo nest.

regardless of how secure - user error on bolt through = same eventual outcome.

thru axle same chance of user error, yes but the thing is not about to exit the bike as easily as std QR ❓ as held captive "thru" the axle. me thinks you would still notice a loose wheel earlier and still live to fix it

depends on the thru axle design . not a set standard yet.

i mean if your so shit scared of your mechanical ability to tighten a QR then crack on replace all yours with bolt up.

but to claim the messiah and say QR belongs only on a road bike is wrong.

for example - im in an XC race the last thing i want is a bolt through axle when i can have a correctly fitted QR wheel off in seconds - frankly im more worried about snapping my frame than i am about my wheel falling off, infact ive snapped more frames than ive had wheels fall off.... 3 vs 0.

depends?! depends on allot of things.. weather, drinks the night before, food eaten, ability to use baby wipes. me thinks you assume to much about nothing it is possible to design out user error, thankfully they have been doing it for years in aviation.

how ever thats not what they did with bolt through , what they did was make it more complex and more time consuming to remove than the previous item designing in redundancies. QR15s close but no cigar - and folk STILL **** it up getting them stuck.

jar spoon jar jar spoon
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esher shore - Member
Try DT Swiss RWS skewers?

maybe not for the OP but for me yes just read a few reviews, ideal on my disk braked CX - such a wuss on the mtb never have problems but def had a few ting ting ting the qr isn't as tight as you think moments on my cx and had decided that next bike would be thru axle - meanwhile a pair of them there RWS skewers looks good to me cheers 🙂