my bike is very, very ill... what do i do?
my poor winter bike that i do most of my mtbin on needs lots of new bits, new mech F + R, chain, new brakes, new forks.
should I?
1) just replace the bits. its a mixture of deore and slx, the brakes were shimano xt m760 when they used to work and the forks are reba teams
2) go 1x10 and put some lovely hope tech x2s or slx brakes and get a fork service
3) get a new bike, like a whyte 805 trail with forks and brakes that work
always go with the "buy a new bike" scenario, if possible 
Pic of the current bike?
Budget?
Need a little more info for an "informed" decision...
Though if you just want subjective opinion based on verifying your already pre-planned thought process... Just buy the new bike! 😉
If you buy a new bike and treat it the same way next winter, you'll be no further forward.
So, 1) AND 3)
there's no pic because i'm embarrassed to say that it's a coyote lol. but i'll shame myself and put up a picture of it.
[img] http://www.flickr.com/photos/59819634@N05/5469106939/ ][img] http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5469106939_22e3b8257a_b.jp g" target="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/59819634@N05/5469106939/ ][img] http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5469106939_22e3b8257a_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/59819634@N05/5469106939/ ]IMG_0194[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/59819634@N05/ ]lil_john1[/url], on Flickr[/img]
budget of new bike. about £1200 because its a second bike and really would be after something with air forks and decent brakes.
if i were to repair it would be to replace with similar quality bits rather than upgrade
repairing it would be cheaper until something else goes wrong on it.
Reba's Team are very decent, get em serviced.
Bleed the brake, put new pads in and clean off the disc properly 1st, try them again & then decide if you need new brakes.
EDIT: why do you say your front & rear mech's are knacker? Have you replaced the cables? Rear looks a XT shadow mech, unless you've clouted it badly it should be fine. Front mech's IME rarely wear unless really old...
So
1[b]b[/b]) just replace the drivetrain bits with a mixture of deore and slx (but not he mech's), new cables & get the forks and brake serviced.
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5469106939_22e3b8257a.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5469106939_22e3b8257a.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/59819634@N05/5469106939/ ]IMG_0194[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/59819634@N05/ ]lil_john1[/url], on Flickr
Whatever else you do, go 1x10, you'll not regret it.
cables are fine but the rr mech is seized at the v top pivot near where it joins the hanger. it works sort of at the moment.
ft mech is seized, i have worked it loose a couple of times and worked some gt in there so that i can use middle and big.
i'll bleed the brakes before i do anything. i haven't bled them in ages so ill give it a go
<remains totally unconvince that 10 speed will make any difference to anyone other than shimano's stock holders> hey ho. 😉
If I pay for the postage can I have them then? (mech's) 
[edited in the smiley's]
hahaa no. they're going in my spairs bin until theres enough junk to build a rat bike or ghetto chain tensioner
Theres a guy on ebay doing the seal kit for rebas (that also fit my '08 revs) for about £8. Sus oil isn't a lot, you might need some circlip pliers and maybe another tool but with the service guide on RS site its straightford to do it at home
As above get the brakes bled, rotors cleaned, pads roughened up etc. XT's should be able to be great
Basic cables/outers with some middleburn cable oilers to push out the crud with WD40/GT85 etc don't cost a lot and keep gears working through the worst weather
I was going to suggest getting a high mount front mech to keep it out of the mud low mount ones build up around them, but you've already got one
Can I have that bike?
You just need to take the mechs both off and work some proper degreaser in. They will come free. Try working them in a sink of hot water.
And second the above. Unless the pistons are leaking the brakes can be fixed, and unless the stanchions are scored so can the forks.
Or give the bits to me and go and buy that nice new Whyte...
would leaky pistons cause my pads to get contaminated after only a couple of rides?
if it were me
I would go 1x9 using the front derailleur as a chain guide (or get an ngear jump stop or similar), fettle the rear mech to get it working again inc treating it to new jockey wheels, new chain, new pads on the brakes and get them working, ask a bike shop about the fork service or see if you can do it yourself
that will sort it for another year, maybe 2, get saving for when it's beyond repair
would leaky pistons cause my pads to get contaminated after only a couple of rides?
hehe.. Yes! Put some paper between the pads and pistons, rubber band the brake lever to the bar (with the rotor in place!) and come back after a half hour or to see if the paper has oil on it. You can always get new callipers for cheaps- last years are always available for peanuts!
rr mech is seized at the v top pivot near where it joins the hanger
I'll take a look tomorrow (have a m8's busted one in the garage), but with the old/normal one you can remove the pivot bolt by taking off the circlip, clean the inside and then put it back together. T'is a bugger to get the circlip back on, but it is possible.
Single speed it and put BB7s on.
You'll probably get enough for your duff bits on eBay to pay for it.
🙂
fix it up
OR
singlespeed it, for winter/commuting and buy a new bike for 'proper' riding