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I have always wanted a fat bike and the onone looks like a bargain but I just can't get over the mismatching head tube and fork sizes.
Fat head tube and skinny fork nooooooooooooooo.
Hopefully the carbon fork will address this 🙂
john.
llandegla doesn't count. 😉
Do you find you need to add extra tape after drilling the rims? Just wondering how much weight you actually save.
One wrap of reflective tape.
One wrap of gorilla tape.
Some Stans jism and a valve. 🙂
Hmm hopefully the Fat bike itch will go away....
If I rode one, would I ever want to ride my Scandal again...
Does anyone have one on or near to Dartmoor?
If I rode one, would I ever want to ride my Scandal again...
No 😆
twoniner, where did those "No shox" stickers come from? i [b]need[/b] these!
I got the original ones from an MTBR forum member years back however they are on ebay.
The ones I had were really good quality, not sure about these ebay ones though. Worth a punt. 🙂
If I rode one, would I ever want to ride my Scandal again...
I have one, but prefer my BFe at the moment.
Brant tweeted a video of how to drill the rims, quite a while back. Anyone know where that could be found?
Edit: Found it. should have googled first...
Just doing mine now. Front is done back is half way through.
32mm holesaw and a steady hand!
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If you are going to do it, mark up the valve hole and where the rim join/weld is. You dont want to drill through them 😀
Looks like a nice job!
Why are you all drilling the rims/why don't they come pre-drilled?
Thanks, Don't ask for close up pics though 😆
Why are you all drilling the rims/why don't they come pre-drilled?
The on one rims dont come drilled. Drilling them sheds a little weight. If I wanted a new set of drilled rims on hope hubs I'm looking at £600. £10 for a drill bit 😀
How much weight? Do you know?
depending on,(ooh,er,missis) hole size,I've lost 250gms out of a fat wheel by drilling.dun a few an all,never had a problem.........
Thanks twoniner, have ordered some.
OK, really stupid fat rim question ...
What size hole saw for the rims?
Not a question for me, but my mate is just pressing the button for a build, just in time for the big bike bash and he wants to get busy drilling!!
Cheers
Another question - sorry!
Anyone run 175mm cranks on their on one fatty?
On one fit 170's and can't tell if 175's will catch the chain stays!
Cheers
why don't they come pre-drilled?
Maybe because on one specialise in cheap stuff and drilling rims costs almost as much as making them. 😉
Cider ...I'll be riding my fatty at the BBB ....we can have our own fatty race 😆
What size hole saw for the rims?
32mm.
OK, my mate and fellow bbb'er has just pressed the button on a on one fatty!
I will look forward to a lap, ashnav 🙂
Grizla, thanks for the feedback re preferring to ride your Bfe. Interesting as I was starting to consider a fatty as a fun trail alternative to my Scandal.
Don't get me wrong, I had a spell a while back where I prefered the fatty. I think that it's just that the trails are dry and fast at the moment and the fatty just isn't as agile. It is still great fun though.
All IMO of course, YMMV etc.
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Awesome bike! Just one question- how do you seat the tyre correctly. Feels like I have heavily bucked wheels. I cant work out how to do it on these big tyres. I've always seated 'normal' tyres easily but not sure where to start with these..
Surely the same as any other tyre.
My two pref ways are:
lots of Fairy, then marginal over-inflation and leave for a while, then maybe the following in addition.
Pump up to a reasonable (mid range) working pressure and properly grabbing out the bead where it needs to be.
i.e
Bead needs to come out at one point .. make it 12 o clock but facing away from you.
Palms over the tyre then pinch in and pull up the bead with your fingertips two handed, like your massaging the bead out with your fingers
one foot over the tyre at 6 o clock may help with leverage.
Could just be guff molding .. have you checked 'that line' marking the bead is giving a consistant margin around the rim?
I had trouble seating the tyres as well. Following a thread on MTBR about Fatty tyres I ended up spraying the beads and the rim with silicone spray then fitting the tyre and inflating to about 25psi. I had the usual pops and cracks you get when a tubeless tyres goes onto a rim then deflated the tyre to 8psi.
Cant show mine still waiting for the rolling chassis to turn up - ordered Sunday and still not sent another phone call to be made later 🙁 good news is the only other parts I needed to make the bike - wide bars and Race Face Chester Fatty chainset have turned up 😀
Just one question- how do you seat the tyre correctly.
I had issues seating my tyres and in the end used some Morrison's head to toe baby wash (shower gel)I pumped them up to about 25psi and they seated ok. I have to re-do the back tyre, I put it on the wrong way round 😕
Drilled rims complete with surly white tape.
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That was an emotional journey but worth it in the end.
Your cat needs some orange anodized bits^
Inspired by this thread...
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On to the back one now.
This is as far as I can go till the bolt for the Chester Fatty crank arrives - hopefully ready for the Big Bike Bash at Avon Tyrrell this weekend
[url=[url= http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3813/9554903656_1637552180_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/64307722@N03/9554903656/ ]Fatty 006[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/64307722@N03/ ]Ashley Denham[/url], on Flickr]null[/url]
Bit of a thread resurrection but .....
I'm drawn to the fat side and am contemplating a chassis build.
Couple of questions .....
➡ The frames look to be (from the geometry charts) quite short in the TT.
How are the taller riders finding the frames? I would want to run my Reverb so no chance of using a sneaky layback post 🙁
➡ For those that drilled their rims .... Was the faff worth it for the weight reduction?
➡ Finally any quick, cheap cheats to loos a bit of weight? Lightweight freeride tubes?
I run spesh 2.3-3.0 tubes in my fatbike, 3 for £10 @ leisure lakes..
Please stop this thread 🙁
[i]Please stop this thread[/i]
+1
I'm 6'5" and find mine to be very comfortable.
(large frame, not sure about exact size though.)
Drilling the rims took a couple of hours, and I don't know if it was worth it purely from a saving weight point of view (when the rest of the bike is so heavy) but I do like the look, and I felt a bit of a noob with undrilled rims.
IMHO.
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I thought the TT length on these was v similar on all the sizes, I'd go 18" being 6ft2 for the standover, would that be wrong?
Standover is certainly an issue with fatbikes. If you're riding in soft snow, stop and put your feet down,your feet can sink into the snow a lot more than your tyres do!!
According to the on-one website the standover is the same for all sizes.
top tube length varies though.
Ah, that must have been it! :-[
I am waiting to get info so I can possibly put on a middleburn uno....
Still also to change seat ,cut Brake cables and couple other wee things....
Oh and 6ft 1" and medium is perfect!
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I rode the ashnav's last weekend, and feel I am right on the size barrier (m - l).
33" inside leg, long arms and a habit of breaking seatposts due to my mass, makes me think the large might be better for me....
Other bikes are 18" & 19" hardtails, 90mm stems and lay back posts...
So for me, large frame, short stem, inline post = no breakages!!!
Just got to save up now 🙂
Cider .....you know it makes sense .......get it done